ProDave

It arrived today. A day early in fact, I had been told to expect it on Friday, so I had gone out to do a job. I just got back late afternoon and there was the truck pulling up at the house. One question. The two input coil ports are side by side. The diagram in the instructions says "heat pump flow and return" But WHICH is flow, the left one or the right one?

Makes me feel smug. Even stripping all the top soil down to sub soil, and then digging the foundations, muck away =0. The advantage of a sloping site and using all the excavated soil to build it up and make it less of a slope.

I'm confused, You knew about the lines, you knew about the invalid wayleave, but carried on and built close to them (no doubt with a lot of difficulty) but only now you are finished are you actually asking for them to be moved?

Here in the UK we have to do a garage ceiling with 2 layers of the pink 15mm thick plasterboard with staggered joints to achieve the fire rating. Ceiling up first, then you can fill between the joists with insulation, then your floor. What's wrong with P5 chipboard flooring? OSB does not give a particularly smooth finish.

And even when I cut and pasted to the address bar it went to a blank page. I have removed the link as it is proving contentious, and I will edit it out of the quotes as well.

I read that as ANY solid material, which could be tarmac, concrete, paving bricks etc I would avoid resin bound gravel, awful stuff imho.

Hi and welcome. I am not sure how helpful this forum will be as we are mostly in the UK and familliar with UK building regs. But it's nice to see your project and perhaps there is someone here familiar with French building regs.

No, surely the guy on the right is the electrician. He's probably on a charge.

Hi and welcome to the forum. There are several on here building on split garden plots so you will get plenty of help in due course. Can you post a plan of what you are doing?

You can now also play "what if" and see the effect of better U values for windows, doors, walls floor, roof etc and see where it might pay to make improvements.

Got it. Old joke.

I think we all need to go and read "Eats shoots and leaves"

I like 15 and 16

Where's your Grammar. She's out with me grandad.

I'll vent my pet hate at miss used grammar. If I had £1 for every time I have heard someone say "you could of done that....." FFS OF is not the same word as HAVE. It should be "you could have done that....." There. I can sleep easy tonight now that is off my chest.

The report on the fire has been published. A summary here https://www.standard.co.uk/news/london/grenfell-tower-report-how-the-fire-began-on-the-fourth-floor-and-spread-throughout-the-block-a3814831.html (and probably many other places as well) The key things for me. Fire started by a fridge / freezer The kitchen window in that flat was open (to let the smoke out?) so it's fire rating was irellevant. Sprinklers would only have helped if in the kitchen where the fire started. The front doors to the flats did not have self closers and at least part pf the spread of fire was doors left open No fire breaks in the cladding (I think we knew that)

All that is inside the heat pump is a plate heat exchanger to transfer the heat from the refrigerant to the water (brine) so I can't see there is anything in the heat pump to get upset. I have spoken to Technical help at Telford. They advised for my small heat pump to use the standard heap pump coil not the larger one. The argument being that the larger input coil takes it almost to the top of the tank so most of the time will be in the hottest part and you won't get much extra heat transfer. They advised the larger coil is best suited to larger cylinders above 450L

Just standard plated steel wood screws. Mine is screwed to a wooden back board. The advantage being if I had drilled my wet wall and got the measurements wrong then after the trial fit I could have moved the valve. As it was, it was spot on.

I have a pair from Rationel. Was not difficult, what is your problem?

4mm cable is 37A in free air. In a conduit in a wall (closest regs have to buried in a floor) is method B where it drops to 32A. It it's an insulated wall (floor) then it's method A and drops to 26A At 240V (which lets be honest most supplies are, 230V being a fictitious number) your hob will be a max of 32A The only problem might be if you put 4 large pans of water on to boil all at the same time, Otherwise diversity will take care of it.

What's the make and model of the hob? so we can look at the instructions.

Is it just the bit of conduit in the wall you are worried about? If you have access to the top and bottom of the conduit then 6mm singles should fit and connect to a t&e above that for the run back to the consumer unit.

SACK the electrician. Any electrician that puts in a 4mm for a hob lacks experience, very minimum 6mm, 10mm for some. In fact 4mm is such an odd cable size I don't normally use it, there are very few reasons to use it rather than 6mm. Read the manual. Some hobs have the ability to limit maximum power by a sequence of button presses when first powered.

For some reason I read that as a magazine dispenser by the loo.

You are missing the whole point of a separate valve. Put it there and when you turn it on your arm gets drenched in stone cold water before the hot reaches the shower. You want the controls on a different wall so you can turn it on, dry, and not get wet until it is warm water flowing Don't forget to drill a BIG hole for the thermostatic mixer, so big the plate only just covers it And for access to the filters I am going to have to cut between the big hole and the smaller holes with the multi tool