ProDave

Don't go any higher with your kwikstage yet. Get the beam up onto what you have (lift with the digger) then raise it an end at a time one lift (500mm) and insert the next transom and build the tower up. When you get it to the gutter level you need 2 winches and raise it "Alaskan" fashion by pulling it up the slope from both ends. Put a temporary plank up each ridge to give it something to slide up. A safety rope at each end to catch it if the winches fail and stop frequently to take up the slack on the safety ropes. When you get it to the ridge you will have to drop the 2 internal towers a little to get the beam over them, then rebuild them. And working from those towers lift it into final place an end at a time.

It's a bit more complicated. The first ones are man plus whistle and the last one is man (no whistle) Which means my values for man and whistle are wrong, and becomes a simultaneous equation to solve to get those.

Got it. A bit sneaky 3 pairs of shoes = 30, so one pair of shoes =10 1 pair of shoes plus 2 men = 20. We know pair of shoes = 10 so 2 men = 10 so 1 man = 5 man (5) plus 2 (pairs of) whistles = 13 so 2 (pairs of) whistles = 8 therefore 1 (pair of) whistles = 4 So the final sum single shoe (5) plus man (5) plus single whistle (2) = 12

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Another related method is cut a number of vertical slots in the stump with a chain saw and light it by emptying your hot BBQ charcoal on top. The slots burn in a similar way and it just smoulders and burns down.

Well at least we know the door switch works. The water pressure would have been pretty close to 0, we turned the water off and then flushed the loo and left. I don't think the stopcock was letting by as when we got home the loo cistern was still empty. So it was just all the water in the pipes able to drain by gravity. At the moment we don't have a HW tank so I have all the hot and cold pipes temporarily strapped to the cold mains in so there would have been more pipe work to drain down than normal.

The basic rules are you have to find somewhere for the treated water to go. This usually mean a soakaway (or more correctly an infiltration field is the correct name) To design that you need to know more about your land, you need to know the percolation rate. So, dig a hole 1 metre cube (i.e 1 metre deep and room to get into) In the bottom of that dig a hole 300mm cube. Put a stick in this hole with a mark 75mm up from the bottom, and another 225mm up from the bottom. Fill the 300mm hole with water. When the level drains down to the first mark, start timing. When it gets to the bottom mark, stop timing. From that you can work out the percolation rate of the ground, and then knowing the number of bedrooms work out the occupancy and calculate the area of land needed for the infiltration field. Then look at your local building regs for the limitations on position, e.g here the infiltration field must be kept 5 metres from a building, 5 metres from an boundary,. and 10 metres from a road or watercourse. Then you can work out if you have enough land to do that. If not I am afraid you have to stump up for a connection as new cesspits are not allowed. If you can get that percolation time figure I can talk you through the sums. It might be handy to work out where an infiltration field might fit in the plot first and work out the area you might have available, it might be obvious from that it won't be possible. If your ground is poor draining or has a high water table an above ground filter mount might also work but you will have a garden with a large hump in it.

I would look at this from a different angle. The issue appears to be the window flashings and the minimum overlap in a situation of adjacent windows meaning you need to put the windows closer together. I would instead be looking at what you can do to make the flashings work with what you have, first suggestion being a roll of lead down the doubled up rafters before you put the flashings on.

Yes, go carefully and the first sign of sparks STOP. As above, I removed one a similar size. It took a long time, but I had left the stump about 4ft tall (only as it had got to the point the stump was wider than my chainsaw bar) so I could push and pull for all the digger was worth to loosen it and determine what was holding it. The resulting hole was quite large, if that fence is a boundary and you don't want to disturb that, you might have problems.

Daewoo. I forget the number. I will probably post it on the white goods forum but don't expect much help. I haven't checked if the door switch is working, but the machine certainly is it ran a full wash through this evening so it isn't "broken" it's just poor design imho. Like I say I have known plenty of software driven consumer items to misbehave but no others made the floor wet. Yes I am not after wet room tanking standards, but something to ensure any puddle that forms stays there until mopped up or it evaporates, and cannot seep into the fabric of the building.

Remember my thread about the WM bearing? Well that one is still pending, I have not plucked up the courage to have a go and for a short term "fix" we are using a slower spin speed. Anyway we have just had a dew days away. Turned off the water in the house before going. When i got back, the WM was sitting there with it's door open, full of water level with the door opening and a puddle in front of the machine. The display was flashing "Le" level? My thoughts: This relatively modern machine is all controlled by a micro controller. I think the software gltched and opened the fill valve. It was only the contents of the water in the pipe that filled it and just a bit overflowed. What a good job the water was turned off. My understanding from what I can see with this machine is the door switch is just another input to the micro controller (unlike older machines where it was a proper interlock switch) SWMBO is now firmly convinced the machine is "broken" and should be disposed of and no further attempt made to "repair" it. I believe this is "just the way it is" I can point to many instances of software controlled consumer items where the software has glitched and strange things happen, (like a tv we have has a habit or turning the sound on, when in standby,) And this would just as likely happen with a new machine. I always used to turn off both the water and mains to items like WM's but SWMBO kept telling me I was silly. Just now does not seem the moment to say "told you so" Actions as a result of today: I have to lift that section of floor to see if the air right membrane held the water back, or have I now got a lot of soggy insulation. The finished floor in the utility and at part of the kitchen needs to be done as a wet room floor for next time this happens.

My concern would be noise.

I found the BB company okay, but it totally defeated them to give me a parcel tracking number that worked. They first gave me just a number, that didn't work. Then they gave me a number with a letter on the end. That didn't work. When the parcel did arrive, the number was correct but with the wrong letter on the end. It would have been less stressful if they could have got that simple bit of communication correct.

Shall we have a sweepstake on who is going to be the first to shower in their new bathroom, @Onoff or me? hint: The only thing stopping ours being used now is lack of hot water tank.

I am planning to clad ours in aluminium painted the same RAL colour as the windows. There have been some previous recommendations of a local company that will bend and paint aluminium to your needs. I think @Stones might be the person, I believe he had custom aluminium cills made.

I believe they did, but they said I was "employing" them so had to have appropriate insurance, which I did as it came as standard with the self build insurance. Like I say nobody else has reported being asked for this. They muttered something about it was because I was the Project Manager.

^^ looking at those pictures, the woods in the background look more appealing.

Re site insurance. The builders we contracted to do the foundations, and to build and erect the frame, insisted on seeing my "employers liability insurance" which is a part of the self build insurance policy I have. I don't recall any other self builder being asked to show that.

Re shower flow. I just tried my newly plumbed in shower. It fills a 5L bucket in about 10 seconds, so something in the order of 30 litres per minute. I might need to restrict the flow on that!!! Granted it's at full mains pressure now, so when the HW tank is fitted with it's PRV that should go down a bit. Wish I had not bothered now with full bore isolating valves. We had 2 electric showers in the last house. I saw over 90A on the clamp meter with both running and other stuff on in the house. You really do NOT want more than 2 on a standard 100A single phase supply. If you want 5, then you must have 3 phase.

It is sealed 3 times in effect. Firstly the tanking menbrane and tape laps up the wall. Tiles laid, and any gap between tiles and wall filled with grout. So that is already waterproof. The tanking tape goes about 3" up the wall. When the panels are fitted I kept the panels a couple of mm above the tiles (with a temporary spacer) and filled the gap full with stixall making sure it was flush with the front of the panel not sticking out. This is probably the most important detail to get right. When that was dry a decorative bead of white silicone using "corner tape" to get clean straight edges finishes it off.

Are you saying this from experience?

The core of the panels I used is ply. I have an offcut, with raw untreated cut edges, currently immersed in a bucket of water to see how it behaves. In practice the core should not ever get wet. I too chose not to use their hideously designed bottom joint edges, having been bitten before by using a tile to bath trim that was a disaster.

That would not do.

Soft close lid. Start it on it's way downward, push the button and you have a couple of seconds to look. I did helpfully suggest that the flush plate did not have to go in the vanity unit, it could have gone on the wall above the vanity unit where it would not be obscured and would be so much easier to use. I got voted down 2:1

Yes as above. most of out external walls were specified with 2 layers of OSB to give the required racking strength and the 2 internal load bearing walls were also specified to have OSB cladding so they are racking walls as well as supporting walls. It's to stop the wind blowing the building over.