ProDave

I did hardware filtering on the heat pump. But if I were building it I would do both. i.e don't act on an input until it has been on continuously for a certain period of time.

Make sure you filter and debounce what it intended to be a low frequency on / off input. You may have read my thread about my LG heat pump that was spuriously tripping. I eventually found it was picking up noise on the room thermostat input, something that is supposed to monitor an low frequency on / off switch. But instead the input was way too sensitive and responded to short duration induced noise spikes. I had to add my own filtering, something you would think someone like LG would have known to do.

But that would still be an open loop control of the power level then, unless your home made controller senses the flow temperature itself and uses that to "close the loop" and adjust the power level to suit demand. A Raspbery Pi or an Arduino controller could do that quite easily.

Are you saying this hat pump does not regulate the flow temperatures? My LG heat pump, and I am sure most others, allows you to set the water flow temperature independantly in heating mode and hot water mode, and it modulates the compressor speed to maintain that water flow temperature. I find it hard to believe this one does not do the same.

I took your approach. I designed the house to have window sizes appropriate to the room sizes and the local vernacular. And included as much insulation as reasonably practical. However I did add on the "sun room" (not yet finished so I can't yet comment if it will work as I expect) The sun room has large windows on 3 sides but a proper well insulated roof (so not a conservatory) It is connected to the main family room via proper quality exterior double glazed doors (even though they are really internal doors) The theory is, if we need some additional solar gain, open the internal doors to let some heat in from the sun room. If we don't need the solar gain, keep the internal doors shut, and also open windows in the sun room to cross ventilate it and cool it down.

Unless I am missing something, that still needs a physical landline. It just forwards from you LL to your mobile (or to an app on your phone)

Is this trap just serving the mvhr condensate ? If so it's probably nothing more than the water in it has evaporated. Just pour a jug of water down it from inside the mvhr unit and try it again.

It took us a day and a half to concrete ours in. Mixer set up next to "the ole" but still had to barrow it from the mixer to the 'ole and pour. After the first day we had water on the top of the previous days mix and pour, pumped as much as we could off then made the first few barrow loads a bit dry to soak up that puddle. Fill the tank with water as you go, you don't want to over fill it to start with, but keep the water level in it just above the level of the poured concrete.

Yes perfectly normal It shows how little heat is escaping through the 3G glass meaning the outside pane is cold enough for condensation to form. Oddly it's only our north facing windows that do this, the south facing ones don't (yet)

Remember that pop up socket I fitted in my kitchen that I paid £21 for from ebay, and @Onoff later told me I could get it cheaper from CPC? Well those nice folk at CPC have it on special offer now for £15.40 +VAT https://cpc.farnell.com/brennenstuhl/1396203003/tower-power-table-extension/dp/PL1578006?krypto=KL0WuTwxhUp3zGEwEpNc5Cflh99ws1A2zfu85rXk70qrVobpk2zrkylcEJli6flyQBfMy1qdON0NHyKGw8NHZw%3D%3D&ddkey=https%3Aen-CPC%2FCPC_United_Kingdom%2Fsearch

sagging loops in the duct runs? condensation forming in the sags? nasty bugs and smells breeding in the stagnant smelly water?

I have said before on another thread. The reason for smart meters is to enable half hourly charging so we can be charged a much higher rate should we have the audacity to want to cook our dinner at peak time (i.e at dinner time) But our masters don't have the balls, or honesty to say the grid is in danger of collapse and this is what we must do. No instead they try to promote them on the basis they will save you money and everyone will want that won't they. I predict this is the next miss selling scandal unfolding. I am shocked that the ASA have not stepped in to demand the real reason for promoting them to be told rather than the save money pack of lies.

I wish there was an open source heat pump available where you could customise the control algorithms. There are cetainly some daft things on mine that I would alter if I had the ability. In the absence of that, to make a heat pump fully customisable, you would have to build your own controller, that means understanding how the refrigeration plant is supposed to work and operate all the valves correctly in the right manner. I don't see that as feasible. So we are left with the more sensible option of use the controller built in, and do our best to find the hidden or undocumented features to ger the most from it, and where it lacks a particular function, think out of the box for a way to work with what you have, to make it do what you want.

That of course would be far too logical, so you can guarantee nobody will implement that.

Ar this time of year I would just leave it, they will be gone soon.

I have trees. Lots of trees and they are my trees. I will be ground mounting mine, to the south of the tree line to avoid the shading issue.

I sort of tested this short duration programing of my heat pump today. Last night was a cold night here. 2 degrees I measured outside at 7:30AM That was just the time the ASHP is programmed to start heating the hot water, which it did this morning in 2 half hour bursts. It has often been said this this low temperature but above freezing is the worst conditions. Well a lot of condensation came of the evaporator, but no ice formed and it did not feel the need to do a defrost cycle. So hopefully that has proved in normal use defrosting should not be a regular thing.

I did hear of someone that was given a condition to use Scottish slate and submit a sample. He submitted a sample of Spanish slate, the planners approved it and that was what he used. He omitted to mention where it came from.

For a block built garage I would go no more complicated than a couple of air bricks.

First thing don't panic over the over £85K protection limit. I am sure I read somewhere there is short term protection (6 months) for a LOT more than that. So you have time to make an informed choice. And when you find a good home for £85K chunks, please share it with us.

Hi and welcome to the forum. You have knocked @Stones (Orkney) off the most northerly member spot.

Things are a bit laid back round here out in the sticks. 1 & 2 never asked for. 3: I dug a few holes for the SE to look at. 4: he said ordinary strip foundations 5,6,7 just used and architectural technician 8 didn't bother 9 just a normal self build policy 10 didn't bother with any of that 11 Static caravan 12,13,14 like most around here didn't bother with any of that. No doubt some I just "got away with" so this is not advice.

Where I lived in Oxford, someone built a garage without PP. Rather than enforce it's removal, they planted a couple of concrete bollards on the footpath to prevent a vehicle getting to it.

Quite a lot of the timber frame kit suppliers here have a range of standard designs. But they won't always work well on any plot. A house at the bottom of our road I am sure is an example. Enter via their drive and you arrive at a blank gable end with no windows or doors. You can turn left and after 2 turns you eventually come to the "back" door facing completely opposite to the road. Or you can turn right and go through a gate that takes you into a garden and there is the front door. The house design seems completely wrong for the plot and I am convinced it is just a standard design plonked there with little thought.

The door arrived today, exactly when they said it would. Delivered by there own van who drove up from England yesterday, dropped one at Aberdeen this morning and a couple more to do in Scotland before he heads back. Ii was easy to fit, fitted perfectly and seems to work well.