ProDave

You have obviously got somewhere to turn the water off. Can you follow it back to the stopcock and see what fitting that has and see if you can attach a larger pipe at the stopcock?

Can I just add my plea, for gawd sake disconnect that cable. How many times do you need to be told that is bloody dangerous. You might not care about your own safety, so please spare a thought for the next owner.

Ah you must have been a member at our local clay pigeon club where I did an EICR recently. Most of the traps were correctly wired with a SWA supply, except the furthest away that just linked to the next with a bit of buried 5A flex.

Is it stiff all the time or is it free if you lock and unlock it with the door open?

What do you want on the Island? Ours has the hob and some sockets, but it is a gas hob so the power is only for the ignitor. I ran 6mm cable in 25mm conduit, with swept bends each end, so if we ever change for a massive induction hob I can pull a 10mm cable in if I need to. The hockey stick for the gas pipe was built into the foundations right from the start and it came up (just) within the footprint of the island. To run cables in conduit you are going to have to cut a channel in the slab.

Get your local DNO (electricity network operator) to come and look at the cable to see if it's "one of theirs" I did this when I uncovered an unexpected cable, which turned out to be a disused telecoms cable.

Net especially. If one foot does sink then just that corner of the tower would end up a bit lower. I don't think it would be left with the foot levitating.

Welcome to the forum. I wanted to build my own house when I was 25, but the financial institutions had other ideas so I bought a 1 bedroom rabbit hutch starter home instead. I had to wait until I was 40 before I got that chance, and now I am doing it for the second time.

screw jack bases are standard. I stood the legs on offcuts of timber, anything I had to hand just to spread the load a bit.

Just to say those are the correct "twissle" nails for joist hangers. Just not enough of them.

UFH is normally controlled from a manifoild that controls the temperature and has an individual valve for each loop. Then each room has it's own thermostat that controls 1 or more loops for that room. Bathroom thermostat typically has a sensor in the room and the dial on the wall outside the room.

Leave it wet and have a walk over glass cover and lights shining down?

Re the steel frame, I would look at buying a cheap table with a cheap top but nice base, and just putting your Oak onto the frame of the cheap table.

There is a new pumped storage scheme proposed above Loch Ness https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-highlands-islands-44560894 This is in addition to the smaller one already in operation at Foyers that is a combination of conventional hydro generation with an element of pumped storage.

Now if I had read that article on April 1st....... Personally I think the overhead of all the other moves the crane has to do to traverse, pick up, set down etc will seriously eat into the stored power. But like others it would be nice to be proved wrong.

This is the one I have https://www.qssupplies.co.uk/bathroom-furniture-shower-taps/63819.htm Comes with a standard round push plate, but of course that was no good so for one we bought the big rectangular flush plate, and the other, the smaller square flush plate. I don't recall where I bought it from but it was a similar price to that.

And I complain at the queue for the Kessock bridge in the morning.

Fit missing brick then parge coat. then new timber frame as before with air tight layer before plasterboard. The house I grew up in (my sister still lives there) I am sure the upstairs bay wall is just timber and lath and plaster. Render on the outside, plaster inside. Held together now I am sure by many layers of wallpaper. Almost certainly no insulation.

Very nice. I recall my BIL having the same swimming pool cleaning system in Australia. I am no a strong swimmer and I have never understood why you would want a pool you can't stand up in, so I like your thinking. The only reason for wanting a pool that's too deep to stand up in, is if you are going to be diving.

Best of luck Just heard from our tenants that they have to rent for 3 years before they can get a mortgage to buy it, so longer to wait than we first thought. It always used to only be 2 years of accounts for self employed to get a mortgage, now they want 3.

As you can see, there is not a lot holding the bay up. Basically the outer edge of the bay floor sits on top of the downstairs windows hence why it's a lightweight wall. Usually the original downstairs windows are built to give some structural support. Not all replacement window companies seem to know that. I think you are on the right lines with your proposal, Make a timber frame, I would go 1 frame member in line with each window joint. I would then bend a sheet of plasterboard around it. Cut it to the width of the strip, then leave it leaning against a wall for a while, it helps to wet it, and it will take up somewhat of a curve. Fit it while still damp so it bends and conforms to the curve you want. Don't put the screws in any more than just nipping the board until it has had time to dry in place.

Did he convert the kitchen cold tap form full bore mains pressure (about 6 bar here) to reduced regulated pressure from the UVC regulator (usually about 3 bar)?

Care to mention who the new company is, as some of us may be looking for a recommendation.

I would now be sending company B's bill, to company A

Nope. I am useless at cryptic crosswords.