ProDave

They are talking B******S Tell them to go and read the CURRENT regs. There Is no 50mm requirement. It used to be under a previous version of the regs, that if a cable was more than 50mm deep you could avoid the need for RCD protection, that is all. But now everything (just about) has an RCD anyway. Directly behind 9mm plasterboard would be perfectly fine. IMHO 25mm is plenty for a service void where just cables are going. 25mm battens and 12mm plasterboard is just about perfect for 35mm back boxes. I only used a deeper service void in the utility room where more pipes are going. I even had no trouble dropping the 15mm pipes down to the kitchen sink in the 25mm service void.

Hi and welcome. That#s now 2 members further north than me. I would say with your location, a wind turbine is a no brainer.

Next bit of advice needed. Expansion gaps. So far I have floored the big room This room is about 7 metres by 5 metres and the boards run front to back, i.e the 7M dimension. I want to continue this same floor throughout most of the ground floor, i.e continue out of the door opening (just visible on the right of the picture above, a double door opening) across the hall, and into and through the snug lounge. The look we want is once continuous floor with no gaps or visible joints. BUT if I do that, the total width covered by the floor will be 11 metres. I am sure I have read you should not exceed 10 metres without an expansion gap So do I need an expansion gap? If so how to make a level unobtrusive expansion gap? If I do so I will put the gap in one of the doorways so it is covered when the doors are shut.

I think at this point I would be instructing the agent to put it back on the market. Nothing to stop you still trying to save this deal, but I would want more people viewing just now.

A flat bed trailer would be ideal to transport them. But even if I wanted some, these would be way to far away to collect.

I await the pictures. Sadly you may have made the solution a lot harder as you have probably lost track of which ones should join together, and no it is not all blues and all browns joined together.

I think this may be the problem then. What makes you think you can just ignore "spare" wires?

For the avoidance of doubt, unscrew the light fitting and post a picture of the connections . Also post a picture inside the switch that controls this light (and previously the fan) Posting a picture of a completely different light switch only serves to confuse.

Unless I am getting confused, your earlier picture showed neutral at the light switch. So your house is wired "loop at switch" so you should only have a single L, N and E at the light fitting. Perhaps 2 of each if the switch controls more than 1 light and it loops off to another light fitting. Time for some dead testing to check the continuity of the L and N connections all the way.

More Graven madness. you would think those in charge would just buy it back once complete and use it for the next set of plots. The fact they are not is just typical of the whole project.

If a volt stick indicates voltage but the light does not work, you could well be missing a neutral. Be very careful as when you find the erant loose neutral wire it may well be live.

Are you actually getting a landline with Vodafone of is this all wireless?

The terms on my invoices state all goods supplied and fitted remain mine until the invoice is paid in full. I have not yet had to go and recover them. Doing so is on thin ice as you could face a criminal damage charge.

I agree it's the covenant restricting it to a dwellinghouse that will be the one that bothers them. Any other buyer planning to live in it would not be concerned by that. I take it you are going to try and get that extinguished if you can?

Is it really a covenant, or could it be they spoke to the council about a change of use and were told no?

That is a bugger. This covenant thing annoys me. Personally I think all the covenants on a property should be included in the sales particulars. If I was buying a house and found out for instance a "no caravans or trailers" covenant I would probably pull out. A buyer really should know these things very early on. When you find out, I would make a list of the covenants and make buyers aware of them when they view. Better they don't offer, than offer then withdraw later. Hopefully all the work, searches etc can just be used next time. I would still want to know what their concern is and see if it can be covered with an indemnity policy. (we broke a "no building" covenant on a previous house and an indemnity policy kept the buyer happy)

The trouble with safe zones, is the appear to be an official secret, and nobody else apart from electricians knows about them. So Joe public does as above, as it just looks right if you hang the picture exactly on the centreline of the switch.

The best solution I can see is replace the entire run across your land with a new mdpe pipe going around, not over or under your leach field. Then you don't have to disturb that. A lot of work, but you should only have to do it once and there will be no problem. At his expense of course.

There's probably enough sway in that to move side to side a bit then. Might not strictly stay in safe zones though. I can never understand why electricians do it that way up and down to each socket. I think some don't actually know you can go horizontally from socket to socket. Just makes much more sense to me, easier to do, easier to modify or add an extra socket, and uses less cable. I did have a stand up argument with a joiner on a job 2 years ago when he was trying to tell me I could not do it that way and I must change it. It remained as it was.

Did you take photos before the plasterboard when on? I try and run as much as possible in a continuous run. You would know I have managed that by instead of 2 separate wires emerging from the hole, would be one wire coming out then looping back in. That would make it very easy to move a socket. Do you have a photo? Assuming he ran the cables around the room at socket height, the worst case it the link between the 2 sockets may need replacing with a longer bit of cable. On the other hand if he's an "up and down" man it may be a bit more involved.

And why is a sea toilet call the heads?

If your aim is good you could pee into one of the cockpit drains, but might get complaints when things get smelly if you don't flush it through well with water. Or stop messing about and use the heads.

I rest my case. Pee in the bucket in the cockpit where you can still keep control of the helm. I am actually thinking of buying a travel john to try out If I get this one, SWMBO can use it as well. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Portable-Urine-Pee-Bottle-Unisex-Men-Women-1000ML-Urinal-Storage-Travel-Camping/273024948471?epid=2255543834&hash=item3f918e18f7:g:OkcAAOSwMGVaW161

I just use a browser ad blocker. I have only found 1 website that refused to load until I white listed it to allow the adverts.

Just remember @JSHarris I heard a statistic that the majority of MOB incidents are men pumping ballast and falling in. Personally I prefer the bucket then empty it over the side, and SWMBO uses the same bucket, so no discrimination.