ProDave

It won't be very far before you hit the bedrock there. But other places could be more challenging, e.g Ranoch moor, where the railway line literally floats on a raft over the bog.

It's an interesting fudge for a supply capacity issue, as the neutral for both supplies is strapped together (it has to be for the dual rate meter) I am sure it would not be installed like that now. I have heard of, but never seen a summation supply to give greater capacity, but never one supply for normal loads, and one for off peak loads. As there is only 1 meter, there will only be 1 MPAN and 1 standing charge I would expect. Lets hope it does not cause too much confusion when getting the supply altered for the new build.

That was another house who's build cost far exceeds it's market value. There is a lot of very solid rock, and peat bog on Harris, but no gravel quarry that I know of. About £99 to get a car across the Minch, a lo more for a lorry.

Very strange supply arangement there. Can we have a picture more square on to the two supply heads and showing what happens above the top one please. It does look like the top supply just feeds the off peak. Were there an unusually large number of storage heaters perhaps? Get one removed and just 1 supply left for the new build. And in the mean time, be careful of that contactor in a metal box to the left missing it's lid and exposing live terminals.

Actually what I am trying to achieve is very similar. In my case it is to house the amplifier for the surround sound system, and the front speakers for it. I have already set a box or "pocket" into the wall so the front of the pocket will be flush with the finished wall, but the surround sound amp is deeper than I can accomodate, so there will be an additional shelf in front of that, and extending wider than the pocket. It is how to attach this shelf without big clunky looking brackets. A bit more searching has found these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pack-of-4-Concealed-Shelf-Supports-Metal-Brackets-Floating-Hidden-Masonry-Walls/273035824638?hash=item3f92340dfe:m:mtAhGdc51vpD3fc6c_o7tLw 9mm diameter bar, so would probably drill a 10mm hole in the shelves, These are intended tor masonry, but looking at the picture it looks as though the bit that goes into the wall is in fact a threaded rod and rawl plug arrangement, so remove the rawl plug bit and it looks like a threaded rod that could screw into the wood.

It's not quite that simple (it never is) The shelves I am using are a lot thinner, 19mm, to match with something else. So I can't buy a packaged solution, I am trying to make my own solution to suit what I am using as a shelf.

I am planning the big flat screen tv mounting arangement, and need to fix a shelf to the wall just under the tv for a few things to sit on, nothing heavy, so want this to be a "floating shelf" i.e no visible fixings. Searching for brackets the best I have come up with so far is this sort of thing https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLOATING-SHELF-BRACKETS-CONCEALED-HIDDEN-SUPPORT-SCREW-MOUNTING-PLATE-4-SIZES/122922468858?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D52543%26meid%3Db24d56bba48a4dacb055152d9692ed71%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D181248545052%26itm%3D122922468858&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 I could fix those to the wall before the plasterboard goes on, so all that sticks out is the round bar and drill matching holes in the shelves. Ideally I would like something with a smaller bar, that one is 12mm diameter and the shelves are only 19mm thick. Alternatively something similar but with a flat bar that the shelf just sits on, not quite "floating" but discrete. Any ideas?

And the smaller cable to the right is your telephone cable.

OP needs to explain better, with a photo if possible.

Even with economy 7 you only need 1 cable into the house. Do you have two separate supply heads, two meters and two MPAN's? If so you will be paying 2 lots of standing charges. Was the house ever 2 houses now joined into one?

For those wanting Multi Panel, our local branch of Jewson stock it and have all the sample pieces of all the different colour and pattern options available.

What is the switch for? Has anything tripped at the CU? Oh and I have not had a bath for 2 years now. Still haven't tried out the new monster thing in the new house.

Do you really want the noise of a fan running in a living room or bedroom? I would want to see and hear one running first.

>30V N-E is virtually impossible on TNC-S as N and E are one and the same, in many supply heads the N and E terminals are in fact the same big block of brass, in others they are separate blocks of brass with a link between them. Up front 3 phase RCD just sounds like a recipe for nuisance whole house tripping. An individual 3 phase rcd for the heat pump sounds a good idea and rcbo's for things like single phase sockets circuits etc. It is beginning to sound like this is an old direct drive heat pump, rather than inverter driven? The inverter would likely have tripped in the latter.

An issue with concentric supply cables, is the outer sheath can get punctured, allowing water in and corroding the outer PEN conductor. This will go completely undetected until the PEN fails. I have seen this on a job where the DNO cut into the cable to make a joint, and water came out. If the landscaper damaged a cable that has to be repaired, what is to say he didn't bruise it in another place that is now allowing water in unseen?

Fill with concrete then cover with a wooden threshold strip.

Careful, a claim is probably in progress. I had a VERY minor car accident. Driving on a single track road, oncoming car, passing place on his side of the road, so I stopped just short of the passing place to allow him to pull in, but he didn't pull in he carried on trying to force 2 cars to pass in a single track road (remember I was starionary) and clipped wing mirrors. Mine just cracked the plastic casing, his was left hanging by the wires. He was adamant it was my fault (how?) and he was going to claim on my insurance, and proceeded to take lots of photographs. So I informed my insurance company what had happened and made it clear I was not making a claim (I glued the cracked plastic back together, it was an old car) nearly 2 years later I had a phone call to say they never received a claim from the other driver and were closing the claim down. They advised I phoned customer services as I might be due a refund. Sure enough, the 2 renewals in the intervening period had been inflated, and now the claim was closed I got £200 refunded.

The blame game cannot start until the fault is identified. If it is a DNO fault, I am absolutely sure the DNO will pay for items damaged in the home. Your insurer may be the vehicle to facilitate that as I am sure they will just pass on the claim. The danger though in going through your insurer is they will deduct the policy excess from the claim, wheras going straight to the DNO (IF it turns out to be their fault) you would likely get the full claim.

The fact he exposed the insulation board probably means one of the elements had failed and you remove the front of the internal box and take out the front row of bricks to get at the element. The slab of insulation is encases in some form of woven material that goes very brittle and cracks. As long as you have not been careless and crumbled the insulation inside, then just carefully put it back and it will be fine. It's not going anywhere once it is all re assembled. There is no risk as it's not asbestos in a heater that recent.

I worked for a while with some German Joiners, who wore their traditional uniforms and told me a lot about their training, including a lot of travel. Very different to what happens here.

It will be interesting to see what the fault is before the finger of blame is pointed. If it is the DNO's neutral corroded and floating neutral, you can hardly blame the installer.

There was much discussion at the time of rather than fix the problem, they "solved" it by putting it in a tin box. Won't stop CU fires just might stop them spreading. There is much wrong with modern CU's that nobody seems bothered about fixing, like nothing to stop a busbar finger going the wrong side of the cage clamp, and what happened to having 2 screws on the incoming L and N connections?

Even though it is 3 phase, I will bet it has a neutral connection and used that and 1 phase for the control circuitry (so it can use the same controls as the single phase version) so if it is a floating neutral that would be as likely to go pop as your sky box.

The important thing as are they all reading the same at one instant, or is one going up when another is going down? Nothing surprises me any more. Some electricians are simply rubbish at fault finding. They seem to be taught how to wire and installation and do a standard set of tests and nothing more. Let us know what they find, and a picture of the CU and supply head would be interesting.

I suspect it is not TNC-S. Since N and E are the same cable and usually even the same terminal at the supply head, it's virtually impossible to get a difference between N and E. What usually happens with a N break in a TNC-S is the whole installation rises to near 230V but you bizarrely don't notice it or get a shock from anything as everything has risen so there is no potential difference. Last one of these I found, the DNO then spent days digging up the guys drive and a lot of the street until they found the fault. I am really disappointed the electrician who has already been has not found the fault. I suggest the next one measures Phase to neutral voltage on all phases, phase to earth voltage on all phases, and neutral to earth voltage. He also needs to measure Ze on each phase, and also do a phase to neutral loop impedance test on each phase. This is one aspect of the wiring regs I disagree with. They are fixated with measuring Ze which is the loop impedance from phase to earth. If this is a TNS or TT supply, that could still measure perfectly fine with an open circuit neutral. I think it is very important, particularly when looking for a fault, to measure phase to neutral loop impedance.