ProDave

It's not quite that simple (it never is) The shelves I am using are a lot thinner, 19mm, to match with something else. So I can't buy a packaged solution, I am trying to make my own solution to suit what I am using as a shelf.

I am planning the big flat screen tv mounting arangement, and need to fix a shelf to the wall just under the tv for a few things to sit on, nothing heavy, so want this to be a "floating shelf" i.e no visible fixings. Searching for brackets the best I have come up with so far is this sort of thing https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLOATING-SHELF-BRACKETS-CONCEALED-HIDDEN-SUPPORT-SCREW-MOUNTING-PLATE-4-SIZES/122922468858?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D52543%26meid%3Db24d56bba48a4dacb055152d9692ed71%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D181248545052%26itm%3D122922468858&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 I could fix those to the wall before the plasterboard goes on, so all that sticks out is the round bar and drill matching holes in the shelves. Ideally I would like something with a smaller bar, that one is 12mm diameter and the shelves are only 19mm thick. Alternatively something similar but with a flat bar that the shelf just sits on, not quite "floating" but discrete. Any ideas?

And the smaller cable to the right is your telephone cable.

OP needs to explain better, with a photo if possible.

Even with economy 7 you only need 1 cable into the house. Do you have two separate supply heads, two meters and two MPAN's? If so you will be paying 2 lots of standing charges. Was the house ever 2 houses now joined into one?

For those wanting Multi Panel, our local branch of Jewson stock it and have all the sample pieces of all the different colour and pattern options available.

What is the switch for? Has anything tripped at the CU? Oh and I have not had a bath for 2 years now. Still haven't tried out the new monster thing in the new house.

Do you really want the noise of a fan running in a living room or bedroom? I would want to see and hear one running first.

>30V N-E is virtually impossible on TNC-S as N and E are one and the same, in many supply heads the N and E terminals are in fact the same big block of brass, in others they are separate blocks of brass with a link between them. Up front 3 phase RCD just sounds like a recipe for nuisance whole house tripping. An individual 3 phase rcd for the heat pump sounds a good idea and rcbo's for things like single phase sockets circuits etc. It is beginning to sound like this is an old direct drive heat pump, rather than inverter driven? The inverter would likely have tripped in the latter.

An issue with concentric supply cables, is the outer sheath can get punctured, allowing water in and corroding the outer PEN conductor. This will go completely undetected until the PEN fails. I have seen this on a job where the DNO cut into the cable to make a joint, and water came out. If the landscaper damaged a cable that has to be repaired, what is to say he didn't bruise it in another place that is now allowing water in unseen?

Fill with concrete then cover with a wooden threshold strip.

Careful, a claim is probably in progress. I had a VERY minor car accident. Driving on a single track road, oncoming car, passing place on his side of the road, so I stopped just short of the passing place to allow him to pull in, but he didn't pull in he carried on trying to force 2 cars to pass in a single track road (remember I was starionary) and clipped wing mirrors. Mine just cracked the plastic casing, his was left hanging by the wires. He was adamant it was my fault (how?) and he was going to claim on my insurance, and proceeded to take lots of photographs. So I informed my insurance company what had happened and made it clear I was not making a claim (I glued the cracked plastic back together, it was an old car) nearly 2 years later I had a phone call to say they never received a claim from the other driver and were closing the claim down. They advised I phoned customer services as I might be due a refund. Sure enough, the 2 renewals in the intervening period had been inflated, and now the claim was closed I got £200 refunded.

The blame game cannot start until the fault is identified. If it is a DNO fault, I am absolutely sure the DNO will pay for items damaged in the home. Your insurer may be the vehicle to facilitate that as I am sure they will just pass on the claim. The danger though in going through your insurer is they will deduct the policy excess from the claim, wheras going straight to the DNO (IF it turns out to be their fault) you would likely get the full claim.

The fact he exposed the insulation board probably means one of the elements had failed and you remove the front of the internal box and take out the front row of bricks to get at the element. The slab of insulation is encases in some form of woven material that goes very brittle and cracks. As long as you have not been careless and crumbled the insulation inside, then just carefully put it back and it will be fine. It's not going anywhere once it is all re assembled. There is no risk as it's not asbestos in a heater that recent.

I worked for a while with some German Joiners, who wore their traditional uniforms and told me a lot about their training, including a lot of travel. Very different to what happens here.

It will be interesting to see what the fault is before the finger of blame is pointed. If it is the DNO's neutral corroded and floating neutral, you can hardly blame the installer.

There was much discussion at the time of rather than fix the problem, they "solved" it by putting it in a tin box. Won't stop CU fires just might stop them spreading. There is much wrong with modern CU's that nobody seems bothered about fixing, like nothing to stop a busbar finger going the wrong side of the cage clamp, and what happened to having 2 screws on the incoming L and N connections?

Even though it is 3 phase, I will bet it has a neutral connection and used that and 1 phase for the control circuitry (so it can use the same controls as the single phase version) so if it is a floating neutral that would be as likely to go pop as your sky box.

The important thing as are they all reading the same at one instant, or is one going up when another is going down? Nothing surprises me any more. Some electricians are simply rubbish at fault finding. They seem to be taught how to wire and installation and do a standard set of tests and nothing more. Let us know what they find, and a picture of the CU and supply head would be interesting.

I suspect it is not TNC-S. Since N and E are the same cable and usually even the same terminal at the supply head, it's virtually impossible to get a difference between N and E. What usually happens with a N break in a TNC-S is the whole installation rises to near 230V but you bizarrely don't notice it or get a shock from anything as everything has risen so there is no potential difference. Last one of these I found, the DNO then spent days digging up the guys drive and a lot of the street until they found the fault. I am really disappointed the electrician who has already been has not found the fault. I suggest the next one measures Phase to neutral voltage on all phases, phase to earth voltage on all phases, and neutral to earth voltage. He also needs to measure Ze on each phase, and also do a phase to neutral loop impedance test on each phase. This is one aspect of the wiring regs I disagree with. They are fixated with measuring Ze which is the loop impedance from phase to earth. If this is a TNS or TT supply, that could still measure perfectly fine with an open circuit neutral. I think it is very important, particularly when looking for a fault, to measure phase to neutral loop impedance.

My inclination is high impedance neutral, so the neutral is floating about all over the place, making one phase too high in voltage and another phase too low, depending on what loads are applied to each phase. Neutral faults are very common due to the abundant use of concentric cable. But you would have thought (hoped) the electrician would do a loop impedance test from each phase to N to confirm this. Also you would hope SSE's monitor is measuring each phase to neutral and logging it. If it is measuring phase to phase, then it would miss that fault. Get a basic multimeter and measure each phase voltage with respect to neutral. Also measure neutral voltage with respect to earth and report back. I had this once after a storm, SSE installed a mobile generator to a care home to get power back quickly and blew up half the stuff in the house because they habe neutral and a phase swapped over. When I called them out to show the problem, unbelievably the guy started the generator and waved a volt stick over each phase and said "what's the problem" I had to show him with my meter. They had a big bill for repairs, including several televisions, a computer and a new fire alarm system.

The space issue is taken care of in Scottish building regs. A minimum circulation space of 1400mm by 1800mm so in a galley kitchen you must leave at least 1400mm space which is ample for a conventional oven door.

Best of luck with that. I take it you personally will not be carrying the washer up the stairs?

Bedrooms are the place for a laundry basket, one per bedroom, that is where you get undressed. Having then to carry your clothes to another place to put them down the chute would then just be a PITA.

No that was 150mm of mineral wool type insulation. New house has 300mm