ProDave

Yes that fits all normal enclosures like an electricity meter box, gas meter box, and several types or electrical equipment cabinets.

It is as much to do with shower cubicle / door layouts. At our old house the shower had a sliding door that opened at the shower head end. You could open it, turn on the shower and the (initially) cold blast of water missed your hand and arm, In the flat we have been renting for 2 weeks the fixed screen forces you to reach in, turn it on, and get a cold arm.

I would not export a PME earth to a metal shed. I would treat it as a "caravan" (for the same reasons) and connect it to a local TT earth (earth rod) with the metal of the shed bonded to the TT earth. In this case you connect the SWA to the PME earth at the origin with a normal SWA gland and Banko, but use a plastic gland at the shed end so it clamps onto the SWA sheath but makes no electrical conection to the SWA.

Wrap and cable tie an offcut of pipe insulation around that leg of the web, and cable tie the cable to that pipe insulation.

On the flat side where one would normally have drilled to fit a set of taps. Now conveniently left as a flat undrilled surface for your wine glass, bar of soap etc.

It's a free standing bath that is lowered down into a matching surround. If you install it to MI's you would drill one side for taps, fir the taps with long flexi's and use a horrible (supplied with the bath) flexi waste so you could lift the bath up. If ever the taps went wrong and needed replacement or the flexi hoses failed you would have to lift the bath out of it's surround to fix it. I so much hated that flexi waste that I chose not to use it. I used a top access trap and solid waste, lowered the bath plus waste in and made the final solid wste connection from below before the utility room ceiling was put up. If I ever did have to lift the bath out now I would have to cut a trap in the utility ceiling to access that joint. With the floor standing filler, and a top access trap, there should be no need for the bath to ever be removed so that makes use of the solid waste rather than the horrible flexi thing possible.

The most important bits of pipework to insulate are the flow and return from the boiler / ASHP / (insert other means of heating the hot water) to the hot water tank, and then ALL the pipes connected to the hot water tank for a few metres away from the tank. The aim being firstly to minimise heat loss from the tank, and secondly to avoid the hot water flow and return from "heating" the house when you don't require any heating. All our hot water pipes are insulated for the same reason to minimise heat loss into the house. We tackled the delivery time of hot water from tank to tap buy careful layout and short pipe runs.

Then there is something seriously wrong with the way it is wired. Each zone of the UFH should have it's own room themostat. When all zones are up to temperature the manifold controller will turn off it's "call for heat" and the ASHP should shut down. Something is wrong. Sadly this is not surprising as so many electricians just don't understand how to wire this sort of thing.

Slightly related, I fitted a floor standing bath filler. Fitted because I did not want ANY reason to ever have to lift the free standing bath out of it's surround,

This is where a scaffold platform would be handy, and why I kept some of my Kwikstage.

My LG one came with the control unit, but it is a fiendishly complicated thing to program so I made some adaptations so the whole heating system is now controlled by a conventional 3 channel central heating programmer. Much easier for the average user to understand. The LG controller is now relegated just to being a means to set and adjust parameters in the unit.

I would have charged about £200 for that. He is charging £300 for about half a days labour or less. Tell him to give as sensible quote and if his work is good and his price is fair you will consider him for more of the work. It really does annoy me when you meed rip off merchants like that.

No. A lot of the webs have nasty sharp edges where they are stamped out. If you must tie them to the web, then wrap that bit of the web with some pipe insulation or similar first to cover the sharp edges.

It might serve your property. In a previous semi detached house we had a pipe like that, with the manhole next door almost on the boundary, and indeed out waste connection went into that chamber in next doors garden.

This is the foundation system a neighbour used. Because of poor ground conditions, each pillar has a 1 metres square of concrete underground, then a 300mm diameter concrete pier cast inside a bit of plastic drain pipe. The wall at the near end is a retaining wall partly to hold back the sloping ground, and partly for one end of the building to rest on to try and ensure it stsays put, i.e to resist any temptation for the pillars to start leaning over.

This whole area does seem very DNO and supplier dependant. If you have a (temporary) consumer unit with the tails already connected there is little doubt the supplier will connect the meter. Sometimes they are unhappy fitting the meter if there is no consumer unit present. So try to avoid that situation. If it is a building supply they may not provide you with a PME earth terminal as you are not supposed to use that for a building site supply.

Forget the cheap ones like that. Look at something like the vent axia ones that have a motorised (hot wax actually) shutter that closes off the outlet when the fan is not on.

I sorted the inside of the garage as soon as it had a door on because I was fed up not being able to find stuff.

EPS is often used as floats for pontoons directly into the water. Enough said.

At over 100 metres above sea level I won't get worried. But personally I would not even consider anything less than 10 metres ASL now.

What I am finding is now we are in and comfortable, it is taking a lot to get motivated to get the inside finished. Little things like not having architrave and skirting board just don't seem to matter and seem to be a lot of work and cost (it is all oak) for no real "benefit"

And can I add, please, before you fit the flooring above, at least fill between the joists with insulation.

Ours is perhaps typical of a lot of the houses people on here are building. Insulation and air tightness pretty much to passive house levels although not certified as such. Very low heating power requirements. With this house, and your system if I am understanding it, you pretty much have the heating panels on all the time the occupants need warmth. So although you are not trying to heat the building fabric, I think with the very low heating required in our house you would not be able to avoid heating the fabric of the house. So I can't see any advantage in our case.

If they priced electricity at something more like a decent retail rate of less than 15p per KWh the table would be a fairer comparison. (Why are they quoting 20.99p per KWh?) That would give 5.55p per KWh for an ASHP which is comperable to mains gas.

I will ask for the third time. Is the "efficiency" claim based on heating the house to a lower temperature because the radiated heat makes the occupants feel warm?