ProDave

If you are not in a hurry https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CO2-ppm-Meters-TVOC-HCHO-AQI-Carbon-Dioxide-Detector-Gas-Analyzer/283619730406?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D60712%26meid%3D3ec94907a08040daae8a92b35c378844%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D362804283591%26itm%3D283619730406%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Too late now, but in a previous house where we could not get a long enough worktop, I did the very unconventional thing of put the joint under the hob, so you only saw a little bit of joint at the front and the back.

That is one hell of a large upstairs bedroom. Put 2 windows in that gable end to allow you (or some future owner) to split that into 2 rooms.

last bit arrived from China today, so that's my RF switched 13A socket completed. Bottom left is the £1.54 433MHz receiver with relay output, And bottom right inside the white box is the £1.49 12V power supply. I have tried it and it works, but now the solar PV output is well on it's way down the "winter cliff" I don't think it will switch on in anger now until the spring.

I can't help with your issue, but the "walk on glazing" thing is a certain member who I won't name, ordered some walk on glazing, but "someone" got the measurements wrong and what he got was too small for the job. I believe these panels are still for sale.

If a highway officer has been to the site, I would be wanting to speak directly to him to hear his view and get an idea if he would object to your plans.

For the bedroom we chose a single fully glazed door and a window side by side. Top right of that picture. There will be a balcony there one day to step out onto.

That wall is nowhere near as high as I expected from your description. How high is it exactly? And it is not right on the edge of the highway, it is set back by a grass verge. What is the distance from the wall to the tarmac of the road? and I don't just mean at that corner say a couple of metres from the driveway? Up here, the visibility is measured from a point 2.4 metres back from the edge of the road, and 1.05 metres high. If that wall is only marginally above 1.05 metres high there might me mileage in your idea to raise the level of the drive slightly and then slope it down to meet the road.

Buy some "decking" lights. They are really small and very low profile and designed to be walked on, so won't mind the occasional kick. they run from a transformer that will sit happily under the unit.

Especially the weird wiring

My point is when I get the worktop made I want to specify the smallest hole that will work properly. I am not a fan of the very edge of the flange only just covering the hole. But I don't want to make it too small that should I or a future owner change the tap, they find the hole is too small.

That's very nice indeed.

A hot water dripping will not drop the pressure of the sealed heating circuit, so don't worry. In our 'van I fitted a pressure reducing valve set to 3 bar, because I simply did not trust the cheap and nasty "caravan grade" push fit plumbing to withstand our 6 bar+ mains pressure. When we went away in the winter I just left all the doors and cupboard doors open and left an electric convection heater with a thermostat on right in the middle of the 'van and it seemed to stop anything freezing.

Looks fun for the sake of doing it, but another "solution looking for a problem" If you are going to make one and have a timber framed house, set it flush into the timber frame. If building a new house, plan the depth of the service void in that room so it will go in flush.

Is there a separate programmer or one built into the boiler? Is there a room thermostat?

Next puzzle. I have read and re read the instalation instructions, and nowhere does it state the hole size needed in the worktop to mount the tap. I guess I will drill a few different sized holes in some bits of wood and see what fits best........

Yes if sized correctly. It depend how much heat the house needs (how well insulated) Our 3 bedroom detached house is using a 5KW air source heat pump for heating and hot water.

Unless you have no outside space, then there should be somewhere to put one. A hot water tank, that is the only significant inside bit should fit in not a lot more space that the OP was proposing for an electric boiler.

For anyone considering electric heating, you should look at Air Source Heat Pumps rather than resistance heating. For every KW of electricity they use, you get between 3 and 4 KW of heat.

Thankfully we have lovely tasting soft water up here. Not a jot of scale in the kettle after 10 years. It would be a different matter if we were on a borehole here as that would be very hard water indeed there is a vein of limestone beneath us. But thankfully our mains water is derived from a mountain loch about 12 miles away so it's really just freshly collected rainwater.

I went for Keep It Simple Stupid. Simple thermostat in each room. AND a conventional boiler programmer to schedule when the heating is on and when it is off. Ours is on all day and off at night. That is mainly because I want a silent house at night and even the gentle hum of a circulating pump is too noisy so it all goes off at night. Others do the opposite if they have E7 and have the heating only running at night. It was a "challenge" to integrate a standard boiler programmer into the system. If you did it all according to manufacturers instructions you would just use the programmer that came with the ASHP but although it can do timing functions, it is a fiendishly complicated thing to set up and does not do any of the nice normal programmer functions like advance, or timed boost etc. So I chose not to use the inbuilt timer functions and instead fit a separate more conventional programmer.

That's a combination unit of ASHP and "traditional boiler" (see picture 5)

Okay I have fitted the hoses and it all makes sense now. The "boiling water" tap turns on the cold feed to the boiler tank. The output from the boiler tank goes direct to the spout with no valves. So it works by the cold water displacing the boiled water and forcing it out of the spout, not by the tap interupting the flow of boiling water. It does beg the question why the blow off valve and tundish? I assume to protect against a blocked spout?

So why does it have a pressure relief valve discharging through a tundish? I will have to connect the tap hoses and investigate but my understanding is the "cold water to the tank" is a direct connection from the cold water in. I will check later and confirm.

In the end I chose the Lamona one from Howdens. It arrived yesterday with all my utility room kitchen units. It is actually made by and badged as Redring. I find the way it is piped a little strange. There are FOUR hoses connected to the tap. I was only expecting three. The 4th one is mains cold out to feed the water boiler. I really wasn't expecting that, it makes the tap connections unecessarilly congested. It also makes the extra cold water branch I had already made, with ballofix valve already in place to feed the boiling water tank redundant.