ProDave

A length of large ducting, e.g. 50mm or more, with a draw string left in place so you can pull through anything you want to.

The only reason you have to upgrade a septic tank is if it discharges to a watercourse. If the ST is working and drains to a land drain then there is no present reason why you have to replace it.

What I got from reading this was your rooms are too warm, warmer than the room thermostat is set to, and you can still feel the floor warm to walk on. This says to me the UFH loops to the rooms are not turning off when the room thermostat reaches the set temperature. You need to start by looking at the UFH manifolds (post some pictures of them?) there should be a row of flow meters. If you are lucky someone will have labelled them so you know which loop feeds which room. You need to establish if the correct room thermostat controls the correct room.

Page 2 of the linked document says "Max running current 25.3A" so it will be fine on your 100A supply. But before you commit to that model and place the order, check with the supplier that it is an inverter driven heat pump. It does not mention an inverter or variable speed operation which might suggest it does not.

It is probably long past the date that BC could take any enforcement action, even if they wanted to. Don't poke the bear and bring it to their attention. You can usually just get the vendor to put in place an indemnity policy to cover you in the unlikely event of any action, but ONLY if you have not bought it to the attention of BC. More important is ascertain by survey the condition of the property is to your satisfaction.

Yes, the BROWN to the valve should come from the heating on output of the time switch. You also have the feedback switch (grey and Orange) completely wrong. I am not entirely sure what it will do like that but it is wrong. What's the 3 core flex at the bottom? That looks odd as well wired to heating off? It needs a re think.

I would say forget these. Get yourself a Dolby 5.1 or 7.1 surround sound system connected to the SPDIF Optical out from the tv. It will transform your watching. Both our main tv's have 5.1 sound systems, both obtained for free from freecycle, both with built in DVD players (nobody wants dvd players now so they throw the sound system out to replace it with a blue ray. So what that my sound system has a redundant dvd player built in?)

No, this is an rcbo Note the little "test" button, and internally it is physically bigger. Hence asking how much room there is in that fuse box. Wylex do make a "compact" rcbo but say it is not to be fitted into old fuse boxes (though nobody can present a reason why not) If it is a plastic box I would say get it changed. In theory you should be able to continue using a plastic box but so many electriacns now see as a failure you will be fighting an uphill battle to keep getting it passes, so probably best not to throw good money after bad in this case.

I fitted an electric roller door to my garage. WAY cheaper than the prices this thread is talking about, very simple DIY install, and the usable door opening is the full available opening, the track and motor etc all fit inside, without reducing the available size in any dimension. Why do they particularly want a side hinged door(s) ?

Yes possibly but not necessarilly. The issue is you have no RCD protections. And most of your circuits are protected by cartridge fuses, not mcb's. On the face of it, the stock answer is a new consumer unit, BUT it might be possible to fit rcbo's in that. At about £10 each, it's less than £100 to replace them all with rcbo's and a lot less labour. What you need to check, is the general condition of the fuse box, and is there room to fit rcbo's. Also (hard to tell) is that a metal or plastic fuse box? You will likely find other work needed like earth bonding not up to standard etc.

It sounds like the cylinder stat is in parallel with the nest not in series with it.

You see a lot of doors, particularly fire doors in offices with 2 hinges at the top. Easy to see why 2 at the top makes sense. I guess this is just "productionising" in that the doors can be hung either way up?

All I am saying is i am not up to speed with how these nest things are supposed to work. If it was working before and you have had someone fit a new cylinder then he either did not know or did not understand the Nest and has wired it as a conventional system. Normally a hot water cylinder would be controlled by a time switch and the cylinder thermostat. You need an electrician to re connect it to the Nest.

I have never quite got into the Nest things, but to put it simply if someone has connected a Nest to control the times of your hot water heating, they have done it wrong. The Hot water is working from the cylinder thermostat, so if the cylinder thermostat says the tank is too cold it puts the boiler on. all perfectly normal in a conventional setup. What are you trying to achieve with the Nest?

So is that the UFH in the bathroom working now?

A newer ASHP with an inverter would certainly be quieter, but not necessarily much more efficient. It really is a heating engineering problem you have, the same would (and quite often does) apply to a gas boiler when one of the controls has gone faulty (or never wired right in the first place. It's just that some people get bamboozled when you mention "heat pump" and claim they can't understand it. In reality, the ASHP is a magic box of tricks that will heat up the water when you give it a few commands from a programmer according to how it says in it's manual. You don't need to understand how it works internally, just read the manual, understand what signals it is expecting and see which one is missing, then investigate to find out why.

I think it is time you tried to get a local electrician. And that needs to be al electrician that has a good understanding of heating systems. It's a job to say if the heating is not coming on because something is faulty, or because it has never been wired properly at the start. What is pretty clear is your system is somewhat basic. You don't have zone control valves or a local control box on your UFH manifolds for instance. It is normal practice with UFH to have an individual thermostat in each room and a control box next to each UFH manifold to drive a row of actuator valves.

Okay can you do some careful observations please: you might need an assistant for this. Turn the heating on, and listen very carefully to see if you can hear all the motorised valves go whir whir whir then click. Let me know if they all or some can be heard to operate. You say the heating pumps come on, this bit is important, do they come on immediately you turn on the heating or is there a few second delay between turning the heating on and the pumps starting. Usually at each under floor heating manifold there is a control box associated with it. Can you find any and take a picture particularly of any make and model number and any lights they have on them?

That's looking good. All I will add, is if this is a "standard" shed, it probably just has a mineral felt roof covering. I would be replacing or over covering that with something far better like box profile steel or corrugated steel etc. Mineral felt will start leaking after not many years, horrible stuff I would never use it.

Yes plenty of us here have installed a treatment plant. I think building regs would demand for a 6 bedroom house you install an 8 or 9 person tank. I think we are unanimous on this forum that none of us would install a treatment plant that works on having moving mechanical parts down in the smelly stuff, you really don't want the job of fixing those when they go wrong. Instead most of us would recommend you install the type that works with an air blower to agitate and process the waste. Such as the BioPure, Vortex, conder (that's the one i have) Graff and no doubt a few others.

I am so far only seeing one motorised valve in the last picture, the little silver box hiding behind the Wilo pump. Do those 2 pipes leading off to the right from it go to the UFH manifold? If so that is the (one of the?) heating motorised valves. Can you follow the cable from that motorised valve to a junction box and do you have any electrical test equipment like a multimeter?

I suspect you have 2 issues here: 1) It's not the best heat pump (being tactful) not being inverter driven it will be all or nothing and it will be noisy. It does not appear to be ageing well. I wonder of you are close to the sea? 2) the incorrect heating operation I suspect is a controls issue. Can you show us some inside pictures, inside the house that is, not inside the heat pump. There will likely be a water pump and a couple of motorised valves somewhere. I suspect it is a motorised valve that has failed and not giving a "call for heat" when the heating is demanded on it's own.

Can you be a bit more descriptive and include some pictures? e.g "The pump sounds like a tractor and is rusting to bits" Are we talking about the actual outdoor part of the ASHP? or a water circulating pump in the house? A quick look at the manual shows yours is not inverter driven, so when running it will be on at full speed, or off, with nothing in between,

One thing to stress at your next meeting is your proposed ASHP is a low power inverter driven heat pump with SOFT START. It is only the older "direct on line" start heat pumps that have a very high start current that can cause the lights to dim when they start up. Or (cough) tell them you have decided to fit a gas boiler instead?

I think you need a site meeting with someone technical to discuss all the options and to discuss your low energy needs etc to try and find a sollution. In our case, the Wavecon 95 cable was installed 17 years ago when our previous house was built. It was installed at SSE's expense due to them making a mistake in the quote, but that's another story. It runs about 200 metres down the road from the transformer and was feeding 2 houses. Our house was joined into that so a 200 metre long Wavevon 95 is hapily feeding 3 houses now. There was an "issue" when we applied for a connection that there was a capacity issue. We were only offered a 12kVA supply. We accepted as that is plenty and it came at a low cost, but the implication was if we wanted more, there would be some network upgrading to do and some bigger costs. At the time I thought the issue was the 100kVA transformer that is now feeding 8 properties, which works out at 12.5kVA available for each house and my assumption was if we wanted more they would have to fit a bigger transformer. I still have a suspicion they are trying to get you to pay most of the upgrade cost that will allow your neighbours development to be connected. I Don't suppose it will help by saying "this bloke on an internet forum has 3 houses connected to a 200 metre long wavecon 95 so it should be okay"