ProDave

Also fit your skirting AFTER tiling. this gives you room to be a bit less accurate with cuts as the end gets hidden under the skirting. As @Temp says you do NOT want to end up with just a thin sliver of a cut, so if that is going to happen, start at a wall with a half tile rather than a full tile to move it all over by half a tile.

In the extension you will still have 1 oven and 1 hob and 1 washing machine etc. Heating load will increase and hot water load might increase if you have more people in the house, but I think in your case those are not electric. So no I would not worry, I would stay at 60A which is 14kW plenty to run all your stuff.

For my hall and utility that had 4 different sized tiles and laid to a repeating pattern, I did a scale drawing of it on the computer, then jiggled it around to best fit. I put it so all the cuts were under the utility units and thus hidden with full tiles meeting the other wall. The en-suite and bathroom were completely different. Both wet rooms, so for those start at the shower tray with the cuts to form the slope down to the drain, and everything works off that, and you will get cuts at all the other edges. Don't cut the cuts until you have laid all the whole tiles and got to the edges. Lay whole tiles one day, cut and lay cuts next day after main area is set.

The ASHP is like a system boiler. It runs on a sealed system that you charge with a filling loop and 2 bar is more than enough for that. You can have a vented cylinder if you really wanted to and a header tank, but in a bungalow the pressure from the header tank would be poor. A better solution would be an unvented cylinder with an accumulator to boos the peak flow rate.

Yes I would. Was it ex hire? The hire boats tend to maximise on bed space and are not necessarily the best if you want it for long term cruising. I think we once had a 72ft boat with 12 berths, though not all were in use (we had booked a 60ft boat and this was what we were given as a free upgrade)

Lovely. I wonder who will be the first BH member to visit you and arrive on a narrowboat? There is something cute about the small ones like that, and a lot are called "half pint" or something similar. Is that a chimney for a wood burning stove on board? And like @joe90 the first NB we hired was about that size also on the Llangollen canal.

Put a small 3 phase board in the kiosk leaving plenty of room for the supply head and meter. Power to builders is via one or more 16A commando sockets fed from 16A rcbo's in the board. These must be earthed to a local TT earth not suppliers earth. Supply to house can be single or 3 phase using appropriate size SWA and mcb. EV chargers can be fed direct from the board in the kiosk, earthing depends upon charger used. Sewage pump can also be fed from the board in the kiosk.

One of the small air to air units that do heating and cooling would do, you can get them with one outdoor unit and 1, 2 or 3 indoor units so can do up to 3 rooms. The grey area is the pipework is refrigerant gas, they come pre gassed but you really should get an F gas engineer to make the connections and leak test etc before opening the valves. The beauty of small air to water heat pumps is the refrigerant gas is all pre plumbed within the unit so only water plumbing and wiring to do.

Not heard this. When was your building warrant issued, i.e. what version of regs are you working to?

Who told you that? What is your present supply rated at and why do you think you need more?

It's a warm roof, so insulation above rafters, then breathable felt, then counter battens and battens. All the vents are ventilating is the gap between the tiles and the membrane. If the plastic went above the vent then the membrane would also have to go above it and the vent would be venting nothing.

No problem DIY installing an ASHP. I have more concern how you will power it if completely off grid? They will expect a 230V ac 50Hz supply and even a small 5kW ASHP will need perhaps up to 3kW of ac power. If it is just a small cabin (one room?) then one of the smaller air to air heat / cool units might be easier and you can get those in lower power ratings. Tell us more about your supply? on grid / off grid etc.

Yes. In my particular case on top of the facia board was a strip of (I think it was called) Easy Verge or similar, a plastic strip to divert any run off from the felt down into the gutter rather than just drip down the front of the fascia. Using the one you linked with the vents pointing downwards would have just about blocked them in my plastic strip. But if it works in your case no reason not to use them. Here is an example of one of my eaves showing the straight through vent works but the bottom outlet one would not.

Yes, but I would use this type of vent https://www.roofingmegastore.co.uk/corovent-1m-low-profile-overfascia-vent-with-10mm-air-gap.html

But you go have to notify the land owner that you have submitted a planing application on his land. We did this prior to buying our plot, we applied for outline planning while the plot was still owned by the vendor and only proceeded with the purchase when that was granted.

I would go back to first principles and have a re think. By FAR the easiest extension would be to just extend the main gable ended part of the house at the back. Can you work out a way to get the extra accommodation you want by doing that? If not post a sketch of the existing upstairs and downstairs floor plan and a description of what you want to achieve?

Those air to air units are pre gassed with the refrigerant gas, and rely on you being competent to make a gas tight connection on the pipes when you install them. If not all your refrigerant gas will leak out. It is a grey area whether is is even legal for a non F Gas registered person to install these.

Simple point. Building a new wall costs pretty much a fixed cost per linear metre of wall. So the more area you enclose per linear metre of wall, the lower the cost per square metre of extension. The right hand bit, where the new wall is, is very close to the existing wall (no scale on drawing though) So the wall costs as much but the cost per square metre of that small enclosed space is higher. Then add on knocking down that corner of the existing house, and the cost per square metre of that bit of the extension is a LOT higher and the build is a lot more complicated. And that's before you even think about how modify / extend the roof structure, for which we really need a photograph of the back of the house as it is now.

We had a sun pipe in our last house to light the landing which otherwise had no natural light. It worked very well and lit the landing nicely. The internal bit looked like a large flush light fitting and we were often asked "where is the switch for that light?" Ours was a standard flashing kit on a 45 degree tiled roof so I can't unfortunately help with the zinc roof question other than have the sun pipe ready and get the roof installers to deal with it?

Are there any other houses planned in the area? i.e. is this plot 1 of 3 for example? If so don't be in a hurry, let the first build their house and pay for the upgrades.

The only bit about 3 phase that is significantly more expensive is a 3 phase distribution board costs more than single phase consumer units, and less choice. All the actual wiring will be identical single phase circuits same as if you had a single phase supply. If you choose a 4 phase PV inverter that will obviously be a 3 phase circuit.

Make sure the Cool Energy one is inverter driven, not all the Cool Energy ones are.

Flat panel LED lights are what you want, they literally fit in the width of a bit of plasterboard. You will need a bit of clearance for the mounting clip. Garages usually have plenty of height, so I would batten the ceiling with 25mm battens and then the plasterboard and that will give you plenty of clearance to route the cables and a bit of ventilation.

The Scillonian III is generally referred to as the Stomach Pump. I don't know why you would get sea sick on a narrowboat on a narrow canal with no flow, tides or waves. Unless you are transiting on the tidal Thames through central London.

If you can, I would visit the site and have a walk around and see if you are able to follow the wires to see how many houses are actually connected to that particular transformer. But definitely ask them to re quote for say a 12kVA single phase supply.