ProDave

Regardless of colour, what was in old switch top left goes to new switch top right, old switch top right into new switch bottom right and old switch bottom into new switch top left.

What is confusing you is the different layout of the terminals on the new switch. 2* reds from old switch top left go to new switch top right. Red and black from old switch top right to go new switch bottom right. Yellow from old switch bottom to go to new switch top left. In this case ignore new switch bottom left.

Re supporting the worktop where it bows, I would be looking to insert tapered wedges / shims at intervals to ensure there are no unsupported voids.

Did you actually see the stone before you bought? When we had ours made, we chose the worktop from their stack of huge pieces in their yard, so we say the very large slab our worktops were going to be cut from.

Tell that to a neighbour who had 3 "leaks" in plastic water pipe caused by rodents before she managed to poison them, and in all 3 cases part of the ceiling down to fix the leak then replace the ceiling. Now living in worry of when the next mouse gets in. I have yet to see a mouse chew through copper pipe.

I have not looked in detail, but I suspect the pump is activated by a flow switch and comes on when you draw water. If your tap is higher than the water level in your IBC's then there will be no flow whatsoever to trigger the pump to start. Your water level needs to be high enough that at least something flows from the tap without the pump. Otherwise you are looking at an accumulator and pump operated from a pressure switch so the pump runs to charge the accumulator.

Can you post a link to the pump you have?

It is very site specific. In my case condition 1 of the planning permission said the entrance from the highway onto the plot must be formed before construction commences. As soon as I notified the planners that I had created the entrance, they conformed that the development had started, this was before I broke ground on the actual build.

Compression fittings, plenty of ptfe tape, pressure test before covering, insulate all pipework. And above all ensure the shower valve is set the correct distance back to allow for wall covering ant tiles etc.

A plumber, who spends half his life with his arm up someones U bend becomes immune to such matters. I am glad I am not a plumber.

Good news. Unusual way to be alerted to such a fault. It looks like that is a good quality stainless steel pump so should be robust.

He needs to disconnect the pump outlet pipe and turn on from a safe distance. If you get a fountain, the pump is okay and the pipe is blocked. If you get nothing, the pump is broken.

All the figures I have are in my first post. In his test report he states the "envelope area" as 385 I know from the design SAP report that the building volume is 434.52m3 I don't understand your conversion? you say multiply the 1.44 by the envelope area used which was 385, so that gives 554.4 (not sure what units) Then you say divide that by the total volume which would be my 434.52 so that would be 1.27, but all I seem to have done there is correct between his measured volume and my calculated volume?

Go and look again. If it is still running and the level has not gone down, then turn it off at your consumer unit and call your plumber. And try not to flush the loo or run much water until he has been.

I had my house blower door air tested this morning. The tester seemed to think it was a "good" result but at the moment I don't think it is. But the result is expresses in unit's I don't understand and so can't gauge how good it is. The test result has come out as 1.44m³/m²/hr at 50 Pa. I don't know how to convert that to ACH (which is what most on here use) when I asked him he punched some numbers on a calculator and said "about 1" A few points. He measured the building himself (I had sent all the drawings) and came up with a volume of 385m3 If you are going to be pedantic, the actual volume from the design drawings is 434 m3 which includes the loft space that is within the air tight envelope but outside the area he measured. I don't know if including that would make the figures better or worse. So given that test figure and the building volume, how do you convert that to ACH?

This may not be what you want to hear, but you want cheap to build, then ditch the basement. The basement will cost more to build per square metre than the above ground storeys.

I believe picture 2 is the pumping chamber. At the bottom of that grey pipe will be a pump, under water at the moment. That should turn on and off with a float switch. Can you hear a pump running in that one? If the pump is running but the level of "water" is not going down, you have a problem.

That's the air blower and should be running continuously. That would not be using that much. I know you have mentioned a pumping station. That would be under a separate lid and should only come on and pump for a short time when the level in the holding tank reaches a certain level. If that one is running all the time you have a problem.

Okay so your treatment plant is drawing 300w continuously. Is this an actual treatment plant? or just a pumping station? Turn it back on and go and have a look. Is the pump stuck on? could the float switch be stuck or faulty?

It seems to hinge on whether or not the boat was on a residential mooring or not.

You might want to turn off the PV while doing these tests or that will confuse a lot of those simple energy monitors. Just turn off the big AC isolator that should be close to the PV inverter.

Something like this would help https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352603604716?epid=11023571779&hash=item5218d006ec:g:8j0AAOSwQJ1edcDA It would clamp onto one of your meter tails and give you a real time read out of current being used and make finding it a lot easier. That one is from China. your task now is to find something not too expensive that is posted from the UK. Or wait 3 weeks for it.

What are the figures in the fight hand column? Is that how many kWh you have used in each half hour period? Of so that's about 0.5kWh in each half hour so about 1kWh in each hour. In other words you are looking for a rogue 1kW load The blunt way to tell is switch off the circuits at the consumer unit one at a time and measure for the next hour until you find the one where the load drops when turned off. That will give a clue.

If you are looking for a "heat pump specialist" I suspect those will only work on the systems they know and have done the manufacturers courses for. Look instead for a good plumber and a good electrician. The "good" bit meaning they are willing to do something a little outside their normal scope and above all are prepared to read the manual and follow it. Any plumber and electrician that can read and apply what it says in the manual should be able to do this. I fitted ours as my first ever heat pump and have since wired another on a new build. It is not difficult.

Yes it would have to be a syphonic flush to achieve what you want. What is the issue though? Surely the tenant pays the water bill so leaking flush = higher bill for them?