ProDave

I thought about one of those disables seats to solve the problem by adding extra height.

Had that recently. I went to cut the holes in the kitchen ceiling an no wire to be found at any of the downlight holes. The Bell ends fitting the ceiling had pulled the wire from it's place and coiled it up in the middle of the ceiling.

Until you strap it back on.

This post needs pictures to illustrate the problem

Honeywell are usually the best, but if the lever won't move the valve mechanism is stuck so you will need to replace the whole lot. Don't get hung up on model numbers as long as it's 3 port mid position and the correct size pipes. However if you are doing major plumbing I would throw the 3 port valve away, I hate the things, work of the devil. I would replace it with two 2 port valves and as you say that makes it much easier to add extra circuits, but it will need the wiring centre completely rewiring as well as the plumbing changes.

What is the root of your question? Are you seeking a loophole to make them move it free of charge or remove it? So I assume you have just bought the land with the OHL's? Did you actually sign a wayleave in that process? If you did I suspect you have "accepted the situation"?

TOP TIP: Leave a small gap in your service battens at 450mm and 1200mm above floor level. Your electrician will thank you as it allows him to run socket and light cables horizontally in a safe zone without drilling the battens (and risking damaging the VCL) In a kitchen for kitchen sockets 1100mm is about right. Your electrician will thank you.

Regardless of colour, what was in old switch top left goes to new switch top right, old switch top right into new switch bottom right and old switch bottom into new switch top left.

What is confusing you is the different layout of the terminals on the new switch. 2* reds from old switch top left go to new switch top right. Red and black from old switch top right to go new switch bottom right. Yellow from old switch bottom to go to new switch top left. In this case ignore new switch bottom left.

Re supporting the worktop where it bows, I would be looking to insert tapered wedges / shims at intervals to ensure there are no unsupported voids.

Did you actually see the stone before you bought? When we had ours made, we chose the worktop from their stack of huge pieces in their yard, so we say the very large slab our worktops were going to be cut from.

Tell that to a neighbour who had 3 "leaks" in plastic water pipe caused by rodents before she managed to poison them, and in all 3 cases part of the ceiling down to fix the leak then replace the ceiling. Now living in worry of when the next mouse gets in. I have yet to see a mouse chew through copper pipe.

I have not looked in detail, but I suspect the pump is activated by a flow switch and comes on when you draw water. If your tap is higher than the water level in your IBC's then there will be no flow whatsoever to trigger the pump to start. Your water level needs to be high enough that at least something flows from the tap without the pump. Otherwise you are looking at an accumulator and pump operated from a pressure switch so the pump runs to charge the accumulator.

Can you post a link to the pump you have?

It is very site specific. In my case condition 1 of the planning permission said the entrance from the highway onto the plot must be formed before construction commences. As soon as I notified the planners that I had created the entrance, they conformed that the development had started, this was before I broke ground on the actual build.

Compression fittings, plenty of ptfe tape, pressure test before covering, insulate all pipework. And above all ensure the shower valve is set the correct distance back to allow for wall covering ant tiles etc.

A plumber, who spends half his life with his arm up someones U bend becomes immune to such matters. I am glad I am not a plumber.

Good news. Unusual way to be alerted to such a fault. It looks like that is a good quality stainless steel pump so should be robust.

He needs to disconnect the pump outlet pipe and turn on from a safe distance. If you get a fountain, the pump is okay and the pipe is blocked. If you get nothing, the pump is broken.

All the figures I have are in my first post. In his test report he states the "envelope area" as 385 I know from the design SAP report that the building volume is 434.52m3 I don't understand your conversion? you say multiply the 1.44 by the envelope area used which was 385, so that gives 554.4 (not sure what units) Then you say divide that by the total volume which would be my 434.52 so that would be 1.27, but all I seem to have done there is correct between his measured volume and my calculated volume?

Go and look again. If it is still running and the level has not gone down, then turn it off at your consumer unit and call your plumber. And try not to flush the loo or run much water until he has been.

I had my house blower door air tested this morning. The tester seemed to think it was a "good" result but at the moment I don't think it is. But the result is expresses in unit's I don't understand and so can't gauge how good it is. The test result has come out as 1.44m³/m²/hr at 50 Pa. I don't know how to convert that to ACH (which is what most on here use) when I asked him he punched some numbers on a calculator and said "about 1" A few points. He measured the building himself (I had sent all the drawings) and came up with a volume of 385m3 If you are going to be pedantic, the actual volume from the design drawings is 434 m3 which includes the loft space that is within the air tight envelope but outside the area he measured. I don't know if including that would make the figures better or worse. So given that test figure and the building volume, how do you convert that to ACH?

This may not be what you want to hear, but you want cheap to build, then ditch the basement. The basement will cost more to build per square metre than the above ground storeys.

I believe picture 2 is the pumping chamber. At the bottom of that grey pipe will be a pump, under water at the moment. That should turn on and off with a float switch. Can you hear a pump running in that one? If the pump is running but the level of "water" is not going down, you have a problem.

That's the air blower and should be running continuously. That would not be using that much. I know you have mentioned a pumping station. That would be under a separate lid and should only come on and pump for a short time when the level in the holding tank reaches a certain level. If that one is running all the time you have a problem.