ProDave

Look up and contact head of planning for your area and raise a complaint.

Yes as per my edit to my post above which you may have missed. There is a flow switch to ensure the water flowing around the system is flowing fast enough and that has detected that it is not. Re boot it and see if it clears. If it does not call your installer.

Nothing in the manual? Try the computer trick. Turn the mains power supply off, wait a couple of minutes and turn it back on (re boot it) I found this https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1071296/Samsung-Ae090jxydeh.html?page=66 Water pump is on, but flow switch is off, so it thinks the pump has failed. I had a lot of problems like this with my own (different make) ashp initially until I fitted a second pump to boost the flow rate. On mine, once it has registered a flow rate error it needs a power cycle to clear it.

Forget the loop for the inner coridor. Total waste, it will never get cold enough there to call for heat. It will get plenty of heat just from all the pipes passing through.

Yes that is more a case of choosing suitable cable, e..g. wire ovens in 4mm and hob in 10mm then you are pretty much sorted. MCB's in the consumer unit are easy to swap if you change one of the appliances. Customers get upset when I say no you can't have a 10.5Kw shower because the cable is only 6mm, unless you want me to rip up your laminate floor to install a bigger cable.

3 port 2 position valve (not mid position) controlled by the cylinder thermostat.

If your electrician cannot work it out from that, you need a better electrician. Combination oven says it needs a 16A fuse. Main oven says max 3490W which at 230V calculates at a max of 15.17A so also will be fine on a 16A fuse / MCB The hob, if electric, will be more significant. If it's the one you mention at 7.2Kw then that is 31A so a 32A mcb will do for that.

All carpet shops will have a network of fitters they use. We were quoted £5 per square metre for fitting. I am doing the easy rooms myself but will get them to fit the stair carpet.

It really is that bad. We need fresh air to breath, so we need a certain level of air changes, we can't live in a completely sealed box (for very long) If you just have air changes without heat recovery, whether by mechanical means (fans) or just trickle ventilation, all the air leaving the building is taking heat out with it. And that spreadsheet shows the ventilation heat loss can easily exceed heat loss through the walls etc. so controlled heat recovery ventilation becomes crucial to getting a low energy building.

With a normal heat source you would turn the heat source off. Assuming you can't do that then instead you have to divert it to a dump load which could be a radiator outside or something similar.

Something like this https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/HGVML916CURKPP.html Configurable as a high integrity board and 63A MCB's available.

Diversity will allow that lot to work from a 63A MCB

Just circulate this spare hot water through a heat input coil to a DHW tank or thermal store.

Lets face it, the supply head, electricity meter and big tails that connect to the consumer unit are not pretty. They need to be enclosed in a cupboard where they can;t be seen, or a convenient cupboard designed for this is a "Meter Box" That is what we have so the consumer unit is on the wall in the utility room with no visible cables (actually partly recessed into the wall) If you did it the conventional way, you would just have your henley blocks and a switch fuse in the meter box and all would be neat and tidy. Do you actually need 100A to the garage CU? I doubt it, and in any event I would never put more than an 80A fuse in the switch fuse otherwise there is no discrimination between that and the supply fuse. Now, if you could manage with 63A to the garage CU, you could carefully choose the make of consumer unit, fit a high integrity consumer unit (posh name for one that allows a few circuits not protected by RCD) then you could feed the garage CU from a 63A MCB.

I do have all the "input" calculation pages, by input I mean all the hoards of data presented to it to make it spit out a number. It has all the wall and floor areas, U values of each surface, Actual Uw values of each window, even the exact model of mvhr and ASHP and actual air permeability test result. So no excuses for not being accurate. One day if I am bored I might scrutinise that and see if I can spot where it went wrong.

No it's just another circuit, like lights are on one circuit, sockets on another etc but all connect to the same mains supply.

Yes our 150 square metre new build has similar U values and similar total heat loss. It has been running fine for a couple of years heated with a 5kW ASHP and under floor heating. Peak heat loss at +20 inside and -10 outside is about 2.3kW. And being in the Highlands, -10 is normal in winter. As built SAP came out at A94. Annoyingly, (just a point of interest really) the SAP calculation estimates the electricity needed to run the ASHP at about 3 times what it really uses. That makes me wonder what the SAP score would really be if we knew why it over estimated so much and could correct that. Jeremy's spreadsheet gave gave a heat loss prediction much closer to reality than the SAP calculation.

Okay think of it as water. People find water easier to understand. So your PV is like a borehole, it is producing some water. All your "circuits" in the house are each using some water. You have mains water connected as well If your borehole (PV) is producing more water than all the circuits in the house are using, then you will export water to the mains. If your borehole (PV) is only producing a little bit of water, and the rest of the house is using lots of water you will import water from the mains.

No it does not matter what circuit is drawing the load. It all gets sorted out by your electricity meter. That measures what enters (import) or what leaves (export) your house. So if the PV is generating more than the entire load in the house at any instance, then some will be exported. If the house is using more than the PV is generating at any instant, then some will be imported. The best way to self use as much as you can is use the large appliances (washing machine etc) in the middle of the day. Solar pv diverters automatically monitor import and export and send any surplus power to a dump load, typically your immersion heater to help with self usage.

I would first question what are you proposing to feed from this henley block. Lets have the full picture.

I bet your problem is the culvert is blocked or collapsed further down, but getting anyone to do anything about it will be hard work. Perhaps you can try the "it's in danger of flooding the house" argument to try and get something done? (that's not the case with our blockage)

What about all your set top boxes? Surround sound? etc etc. That is the bit that needs thought with a tv install like this. I ended up (see my picture above) with just the surround sound built into a pocket in the wall under the tv and all cabling hidden. All other set top boxes in a central AV cupboard and long hdmi cables from the cupboard to each tv. And traditional on wall mounted screen because you can guarantee the next one will be a different size and would not fit properly into a recess.

You should be getting down to or even below 1 for 3G

Have a read of this thread He eventually got a meter fitted by EDF. The system does indeed seem broken at the moment. Best of luck.

When it's warm enough to sit in the garden the heating won;t be on. so the only thing that would cause my ASHP to fire up is hot water water heating. If it did decide to fire up while i was sitting in the garden I would just come in and turn the DHW off (and put it on again later)