ProDave

I can see no reason why that would not work, though I have not seen it done. I would make the straight through pair go to the house CU and the busbared pair go to the garage CU. But don't forget you will have to find somewhere for a switch fuse or similar at the house end to feed to the garage, that feed cannot just come from this isolator.

If there are no trickle vents, are you sure there is no mechanical ventilation already? Opening windows at both sides of the house at night would cool things down a lot quicker than mvhr would. You would want to run the mvhr at boost speed in bypass mode to stand any chance of that doing much overnight cooling and in boost mode the fan may be noisy.

Where are the stairs? I think regardless of what BC say, this would be a bad idea. you would get very fed up having to go up or down a flight of stairs just to use the loo.

I used Knauf Frametherm 35, the version that came on a roll. It is stiff enough that cut to the right size so it is a snug fit it does not slump. Even like this in a 45 degree sloping ceiling. Right at the start I put one test piece in, and left it with no cover and no support for 6 months and it did not move.

2 men lifted our 3 metre by 600mm granite worktop into the house and on the units. They did let out a big gasp when it got there suggesting it was hard work. This sounds like a job for your dad and a neighbour perhaps?

Certainly try that first to prove you built is more than 4 years ago and they may accept it is now too late to take any enforcement action. DON'T change anything before a decision.They may say any such changes re start the 4 year clock ticking, so stick to your story that you built it in 2015 and it has not changed in any way since.

But the maximum under PD is 3 metres, or 4 if a detached house. If you can't prove it has been there long enough to avoid enforrcement, then reducing it to 3M deep might be a solution.

That looks too big to comply, in particular It looks to extend more than 3 metres.

A picture and dimensions would show if it meeds the requirements of permitted development or not. If it does not, rebuild it so it does.

The drain connection from the caravan to the mains does not need to be done "properly" for this, as long as you can find a way to get it to go downhill (otherwise you want a pumping chamber) It can even run on the surface or up in the air with supports if the site is awkward.

Personally if you are doing a full refurbishment, I would hold fire on the extra loft insulation just now. It makes it a mare of a job to work in the loft. Stick to what little is there until you have done all the refurb work i.e. plumbing, wiring, mvhr etc and then insulate the loft properly. For this winter just accept a high heating bill.

Who knows what goes on in the minds of the people processing these claims. The impression I get is look for loopholes to disqualify or reduce the claim. My concern is if you withdraw and resubmit on completion certificate, they will join the dots and say there was a previous withdrawn application on this property that showed the building was occupied on.... so we are discounting materials bought after that date. Are you SURE they won't sat that? I think personally I would let the claim run and if the outcome is anything other than full payment, to appeal it. THEN out of sheer spite, use the case @newhome linked to to justify a suplimentary claim on completion for the last materials. I am even considering trying a suplimentary claim myself for the last few materials bought in the last year since I submitted my claim. I have 3 months to collect those last few receipts and see if it is worth the bother.

My concern is they might join the dots, and link your later "completion" claim to this one and still maintain you occupied the building long before the claim. Does your site insurance have any legal cover?

Define your requirements and design to that. Are you intending to buy a timber kit from one of the established suppliers? If so I hit a brick wall as soon as I mentioned taking one of their standard offerings and adding more insulation. They ended the conversation. Instead I got it designed by a competent architectural technician who knew his stuff and stick built by local builders. If you end up over sheeting the inside of the frame, you then batten in line with each frame member, to make your service void.

If you really want a non contact resolution to this, then the only person that can do it is you, through a steep learning curve. Post some pictures, lots of pictures, as best you can of what and where is leaking and all these valves you mention, together with a general view to put the detailed views into some form of context.

If you are really worried at getting someone in to fix it,. then leave the window to that room wide open when he is there and leave the room. Wear your own mask. I am sorry I am not going to live like a hermit in isolation. I have a life to lead and a living to earn. I take it you never go out and live alone?

Yes the normal is get the new supplies connected to the plot. Electricity meter usually in a waterproof enclosure near the plot boundary so not in the way for building. There is no law preventing you getting a mains foul water connection and connecting the caravan to that so are you talking of some physical reason you cannot connect to the mains sewer like it would have to go uphill?

If the rads are only luke warm perhaps there is a blockage or water flow problem so they are not taking heat away from the stove properly. When it is in that state with luke warm rads, is it possible to feel the temperature of the 2 pipes out of the back of the stove? BE CAREFUL they might be VERY hot indeed.

Those small pipes into the hopper will be bath and basin waste pipes.

We are over the worst of the pandemic and there are currently not any restrictions to stop a plumber coming into your house to fix this. So stop putting it off and blaming Covid and get calling the plumbers.

When I say "water" the stove only know about the water that flows in and out of it's back boiler. It does not know where it goes or what it is used for. I only put that forward as a possible reason why it is shutting down that perhaps the water flowing out of it's back boiler has reached and staying at it's maximum temperature.

Or if a joiner can't be found, this is within the capabilities of a good handyman if you have one around your way?

The general principle with a stove is you want air in at the bottom (primary air) when burning coal, and you want air in at the top (secondary air) for burning wood. so once going in your case top vent shut, bottom vent open, and regulate it by opening or closing the bottom vent. This stove has a thermostatic system, presumably (it does not say) it regulates the burn to regulate the water temperature? If so then you need water flowing and the heat from it disappointed somewhere. Otherwise could your problem be the water has reached set temperature, nothing is cooling the water down, so the stove is shutting itself down? Most stoves with boilers like this are optimised for water heating, not room heating.

We liked the look, the mix of wooden rails and relatively slim wooden newels, and the metal spindles and brackets to join them all together. In your case it would make that newel post slimmer, but not eliminate it completely.

I would not have a light fitting that has a fixed lamp. It is now getting harder to buy the humble downlighters with replacable lamps.