ProDave

There is no easy answer to this, but a question that comes up frequently. You may struggle to find an ASHP with a large enough output to heat what is a very poorly insulated high heat loss house. And even if you do, while it might be greener, it will not be cheaper to run than heating with oil. The focus on your updating of the building should be to add insulation to walls and floors, improve windows and doors, make everything air tight etc and then see what the heat loss is like when you have made it as good as you can and choose a heat source.

This is just one example of a manifold controller. As above it takes the individual thermostat inputs and conrolls the pumps and actuators on the manifold. this goes right next to the manifold. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323201244988?epid=1549854398&hash=item4b404b9f3c:g:VBsAAOSwpLNX86pn

Did either of them come back up? Alive? Madness.

If this is at Graven Hill, it is not your problem to make it work. But I would have thought piles might make more sense, it is obviously poor or made up ground.

Are you wanting detail to wire it yourself? Or a baic idea for a competent electrician to do it? I will start with basics. 3 channel timer like the Horstman (under floor heating, radiators and hot water) The UFH needs a simple generic WIRED manifold controller, whoever supplies the manifold should be able to supply that. This takes a heat demand in from one channel of the programmer. The UFH zone thermostats connect to this controller each with 1mm 3 core & earth cable to wired thermostats. The manifold controller gives a "call for heat" output which drives a local 2 port motorised valve. The switch in the motorised valve gives the call for heat to the boiler (as do others) The rest is bread and butter stuff for a plumber and electrician. The other 2 channels of the 3 channel programmer connect to the radiators and HW in a standard S plan configuration each with a 2 port motorised valve. the radiator circuit will usually have one wired room thermostat and the HW will use the cylinder thermostat. The switch in both these 2 motorised valves connects in parallel with the one from the UFH to call for heat from the boiler. If looking for tradesmen to do this, find some that properly understand heating. If they need spoon feeding details like this, then they will be out of their depth if it does not work as expected.

I insured mine through this lot https://gsi-insurance.com/about-us/ Following recommendations on this forum.

Frametherm 35 was self supporting between rafters in my case. It only had to self support long enough to get the OSB sheets on, but one trial piece sat there for 6 months without sagging.

Councils seem to be going that way of defined procedures. I had the similar recently, i had applied for our completion certificate. BCO had inspected and taken a few photos of things he was "not sure about". Since I had been in contact with them by email, I had expected an email to tell me if there was anything I needed to attend to or change. What actually happened was I got an official "refusal to issue completion certificate" because of 2 really trivial items. So I had to correct the 2 items and then apply again for a completion certificate. Absolute nonsense that involved me and no doubt them as well in more work.

How hard it works depends on the temperature difference between flow and return pipes. It tries to maintain the flow temperature at a set target. Usually when heating the house particularly with UFH the return temperature will not be much lower than flow so it does not have to work hard, but heating DHW the flow temperature will usually be a lot lower than flow so it works harder to deliver as much heat as it can.

What is this "witness testing" you mention for the solar PV?

Ours works hardest when doing DHW and then towards the end of the cycle when the HW is nearing it's target temperature so the water temperature from the ASHP is at it's highest. Could your unit have been defrosting this morning, that usually only takes a couple of minutes.

Totally different design to my apprentice hand made centre finder. I will see if I can find it and post a picture. It's stored in a safe place with my other creations like my sleeve needles.

I have used both of these https://www.plasticdrainage.co.uk/ https://www.drainagesuperstore.co.uk/

Hardly. 20 miles north of Inverness in the Highlands.

Indeed it has. Only put the heating on yesterday, most years it is some time in October we feel the need for a little warmth. Temperature has certainly plummeted today.

Several of us made that same conclusion and just bought an ASHP as cheap as possible and installed it ourselves. I have done one no RHI install (just the electrics) for a customer. There is no reason whatsoever that any plumber and any electrician cannot install an ASHP between them at their normal labour rate. They just need to be able to read a manual, so that might rule some out.

Cold air blowing out of a socket is so common. It means there is an air path to somewhere cold bypassing any insulation, usually up into the loft space. Are the walls dry lined or plastered onto the brick / block?

I can't work out from the video if that is water dripping from higher up, or water being blown up through a gap onto the window board. Is it a window fault or a fitting fault?

Look up and contact head of planning for your area and raise a complaint.

Yes as per my edit to my post above which you may have missed. There is a flow switch to ensure the water flowing around the system is flowing fast enough and that has detected that it is not. Re boot it and see if it clears. If it does not call your installer.

Nothing in the manual? Try the computer trick. Turn the mains power supply off, wait a couple of minutes and turn it back on (re boot it) I found this https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1071296/Samsung-Ae090jxydeh.html?page=66 Water pump is on, but flow switch is off, so it thinks the pump has failed. I had a lot of problems like this with my own (different make) ashp initially until I fitted a second pump to boost the flow rate. On mine, once it has registered a flow rate error it needs a power cycle to clear it.

Forget the loop for the inner coridor. Total waste, it will never get cold enough there to call for heat. It will get plenty of heat just from all the pipes passing through.

Yes that is more a case of choosing suitable cable, e..g. wire ovens in 4mm and hob in 10mm then you are pretty much sorted. MCB's in the consumer unit are easy to swap if you change one of the appliances. Customers get upset when I say no you can't have a 10.5Kw shower because the cable is only 6mm, unless you want me to rip up your laminate floor to install a bigger cable.

3 port 2 position valve (not mid position) controlled by the cylinder thermostat.

If your electrician cannot work it out from that, you need a better electrician. Combination oven says it needs a 16A fuse. Main oven says max 3490W which at 230V calculates at a max of 15.17A so also will be fine on a 16A fuse / MCB The hob, if electric, will be more significant. If it's the one you mention at 7.2Kw then that is 31A so a 32A mcb will do for that.