ProDave

All carpet shops will have a network of fitters they use. We were quoted £5 per square metre for fitting. I am doing the easy rooms myself but will get them to fit the stair carpet.

It really is that bad. We need fresh air to breath, so we need a certain level of air changes, we can't live in a completely sealed box (for very long) If you just have air changes without heat recovery, whether by mechanical means (fans) or just trickle ventilation, all the air leaving the building is taking heat out with it. And that spreadsheet shows the ventilation heat loss can easily exceed heat loss through the walls etc. so controlled heat recovery ventilation becomes crucial to getting a low energy building.

With a normal heat source you would turn the heat source off. Assuming you can't do that then instead you have to divert it to a dump load which could be a radiator outside or something similar.

Something like this https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/HGVML916CURKPP.html Configurable as a high integrity board and 63A MCB's available.

Diversity will allow that lot to work from a 63A MCB

Just circulate this spare hot water through a heat input coil to a DHW tank or thermal store.

Lets face it, the supply head, electricity meter and big tails that connect to the consumer unit are not pretty. They need to be enclosed in a cupboard where they can;t be seen, or a convenient cupboard designed for this is a "Meter Box" That is what we have so the consumer unit is on the wall in the utility room with no visible cables (actually partly recessed into the wall) If you did it the conventional way, you would just have your henley blocks and a switch fuse in the meter box and all would be neat and tidy. Do you actually need 100A to the garage CU? I doubt it, and in any event I would never put more than an 80A fuse in the switch fuse otherwise there is no discrimination between that and the supply fuse. Now, if you could manage with 63A to the garage CU, you could carefully choose the make of consumer unit, fit a high integrity consumer unit (posh name for one that allows a few circuits not protected by RCD) then you could feed the garage CU from a 63A MCB.

I do have all the "input" calculation pages, by input I mean all the hoards of data presented to it to make it spit out a number. It has all the wall and floor areas, U values of each surface, Actual Uw values of each window, even the exact model of mvhr and ASHP and actual air permeability test result. So no excuses for not being accurate. One day if I am bored I might scrutinise that and see if I can spot where it went wrong.

No it's just another circuit, like lights are on one circuit, sockets on another etc but all connect to the same mains supply.

Yes our 150 square metre new build has similar U values and similar total heat loss. It has been running fine for a couple of years heated with a 5kW ASHP and under floor heating. Peak heat loss at +20 inside and -10 outside is about 2.3kW. And being in the Highlands, -10 is normal in winter. As built SAP came out at A94. Annoyingly, (just a point of interest really) the SAP calculation estimates the electricity needed to run the ASHP at about 3 times what it really uses. That makes me wonder what the SAP score would really be if we knew why it over estimated so much and could correct that. Jeremy's spreadsheet gave gave a heat loss prediction much closer to reality than the SAP calculation.

Okay think of it as water. People find water easier to understand. So your PV is like a borehole, it is producing some water. All your "circuits" in the house are each using some water. You have mains water connected as well If your borehole (PV) is producing more water than all the circuits in the house are using, then you will export water to the mains. If your borehole (PV) is only producing a little bit of water, and the rest of the house is using lots of water you will import water from the mains.

No it does not matter what circuit is drawing the load. It all gets sorted out by your electricity meter. That measures what enters (import) or what leaves (export) your house. So if the PV is generating more than the entire load in the house at any instance, then some will be exported. If the house is using more than the PV is generating at any instant, then some will be imported. The best way to self use as much as you can is use the large appliances (washing machine etc) in the middle of the day. Solar pv diverters automatically monitor import and export and send any surplus power to a dump load, typically your immersion heater to help with self usage.

I would first question what are you proposing to feed from this henley block. Lets have the full picture.

I bet your problem is the culvert is blocked or collapsed further down, but getting anyone to do anything about it will be hard work. Perhaps you can try the "it's in danger of flooding the house" argument to try and get something done? (that's not the case with our blockage)

What about all your set top boxes? Surround sound? etc etc. That is the bit that needs thought with a tv install like this. I ended up (see my picture above) with just the surround sound built into a pocket in the wall under the tv and all cabling hidden. All other set top boxes in a central AV cupboard and long hdmi cables from the cupboard to each tv. And traditional on wall mounted screen because you can guarantee the next one will be a different size and would not fit properly into a recess.

You should be getting down to or even below 1 for 3G

Have a read of this thread He eventually got a meter fitted by EDF. The system does indeed seem broken at the moment. Best of luck.

When it's warm enough to sit in the garden the heating won;t be on. so the only thing that would cause my ASHP to fire up is hot water water heating. If it did decide to fire up while i was sitting in the garden I would just come in and turn the DHW off (and put it on again later)

Was there a flash and a bang. Who was digging for what?

Yes that is definitely my opinion. I set my tv low on the wall, but at what I regard a comfortable height

I called in at the local TP today, knowing they normally have a wall of various planed timber and came back with a length to experiment with. It's a finished (planed) size of 45mm by 35mm and comes in 4M lengths which will each do 2 spindles with not much waste. Just one cut and fixed to test the idea. Notched at the bottom and screwed into the end of the floor structure. In this picture the top is not fixed yet, but the plan is to drill the end of the post and the ceiling and locate it with a dowel so a hidden fixing. This is probably the smallest timber you would want to use over that length and seems reasonably solid. they will need a bit of sanding and the corners rounding a bit then painting or varnishing. I await our daughter to get home and give her approval before I go and buy some more. We also need to decide what spacing to use. Too close and it will resemble a prison cell.

Best of luck getting highways to do anything. A bit further down our road there is a blocked culvert and for much of the winter the road becomes a ford. The council have been notified several times by each neighbour and 15 years on nothing has been done. They did come and patch up a section of road surface that got washed away but have done nothing to fix the culvert issue. Why have you still got a septic tank in use if you have a connection to a mains sewer?

Widening that opening would leave too little bearing for the lintel. Can your stove do a rear exit flue? If so I would just use that which would make the stove sit out into the room a bit more.

Very little PIR in this build, the only place is under the bathroom UFH. Roof, from outside to in, tiles battens counter battens breathable membrane 100mm wood fibre board 195mm thick rafters full filled with Frametherm 35 13mm OSB Air tight membrane taped 25mm battened service void Plasterboard.

I would avoid linking to the radiator return. HW return anywhere would be fine. I had a house once plumbed with the DHW and radiators sharing a common return and that would on occasions warm up a bedroom radiator by convection. It is a bad idea to share anything else with a radiator return.