ProDave

You do have to notify the DNO under G98 that you have installed a system, but you don't need to be a member of any organisation to do that.

No obvious solution. About all I can suggest if your engineering skills are up to it, is buy the Velux wall switch, and a blank plate of your chosen switch type, drill a large hole to match the round cluster of buttons on the velux switch to make a front cover to match your other switches. If not engineered well it could just look rubbish.

Well you want to mark it out on the panel side so the flat straddles one of the vertical panels equally. You need to choose the flap and see you it is going to work out, If your cat is not oversize you have more choice over what size flap to buy (we had a previous cat who was so large he used to get stuck in the flap we already had, and it had to be replaced with a small dog flap)

Can you post a picture or link to the existing remote control to get an idea what you are trying to replicate? Withou knowing or seeing it, I would guess there are two pushbuttones one for open and one for close? And a link to the type of posh light switches you are going to have?

Yes, your challenge will be getting it to look presentable and not just a bodge.

That was the stock door in most 1930's houses. If yours only has panels on one side, have a careful look. Almost certainly one side has just been clad in thin plywood or very often hardboard. That was done a lot in the 60's to "modernise" the house.

I have said before, a typical 4kW system with a G98 inverter limited to 3.68kW is easy to self use most of it, as long as you have a HW tank and a diverter to send surplus to the immersion heater. It is when you go above 4kW that it becomes harder to self use, so the returns on a larger system are diminishing, and that is probably the point batteries start to make sense. If I can self use so much of what I generate without batteries then at my level the argument for batteries becomes: Will batteries enable me to make more productive use of the surplus vs just dumping it in the immersion heater.

Does the passive cat flap thread still exist?

Here they have a "sustrans" (Sustainable Transport) thing that creates cycle lanes alongside some roads. The trouble is, to fit a cycle lane alongside a road without too much cost, it follows the terrain, and goes up and down slopes to follow the contours. Most cyclists prefer not to keep cycling up hill so just use the much straighter and flatter road and avoid the cycle route.

It will become viable one day, but every time I have looked, the cost of the "free" time shifted electricity is no cheaper than just importing it, when you properly cost the system cost and battery replacement cost at end of life. It will become viable one day as battery prices fall and electricity prices rise but i am not convinced we are there yet. It is a real shame the DNO's are not more flexible. They are stuck in the mindset that if you have 4kW of PV then you are likely to export 4kW and so their network has to be capable of supporting that and in a lot of cases they just say no to more than 3.68kW. It should be possible to install a second PV system that only charges the batteries when the sun is out and that properly monitors export and ensures it never discharges the batteries at a rate great enough to cause any export. A system like that ought the be possible even when you are limited to 3.68kW. Of course one could DIY build such a system and just not tell anyone.........

I don't know this Richochet alarm so can't comment on that. Like @PeterW I only fit AICO. They are simply the best, easiest to fit and neatest, and you can often get them pretty cheap on ebay, e,g there is one supplier I regularly use and pay £16.44 for simple smoke alarms. (do check if using ebay they are not old stock with a short "replace by" date) I can't believe how stupid some other makes are that either force you to cut a hole in the ceiling and accommodate a junction box above, or fit a "flush mounting" kit that makes them so much bigger. Aico also have a good range, and I particularly llke the combined heat and CO alarm in one package (and wish they would also do a combined smoke and CO alarm) And the last plus point for Aico is the locate / test / silence switch panel you can add if you want to. Oh and the good range of radio link options for where it is difficult to get a physical link between them.

I am of the opinion that without subsidies now, solar PV is only worth it if you can self fit very cheap. My own system is 4kWp ground mounted that cost me £1500 to buy the kit and self install it. My original prediction was it would take 6 years to pay back the cost from self used electricity saving. With the recent rise in electricity prices i suspect that will now be nearer to 5 years payback time. I self use nearly all that we generate and that is achieved by using the big appliances (washihing machine etc) in the middle of the day, timing the ASHP to heat the DHW from 11AM onwards (when PV generation should be good) and dumping excess to hot water (about 1/3 of what we generate goes into the immersion heater)

I discovered this today when talking to someone wanting to come and measure for carpets and locating our house. The site is https://osg.scot/portal/ That stands for the "One Scotland Gazetteer" (read on, a similar version should be available for other nations) So type in just your postcode (with a space) and it should list and show on the map ALL the properties on that postcode. It certainly does for here and our new house is shown. Each property has a Unique Property Reference number and there are also Unique Street Reference numbers. A bit from the FAQ's on the site says So a similar web portal should be available for the other UK nations to present this data (if you find one for your nation please post it in this thread) Now this is of particular interest to me as I have failed several times over the last few years to get my new house onto the "Postcode Address File" I kept hitting the brick wall that it was not registered with Highland Council and to get it registered and included on the PAF would cost me £150 but I had already found the property IS on a LOT of databases, in fact everything except the PAF. Another snippet from the FAQ's says So since my property has been given a UPRN and it is not possible for unauthorised persons to create a UPRN, it MUST have been created by Highland council. I will mention this point next time I have the "why is it not on the PAF" discussion....... Anyway apart from the above waffle, I think this is a damned handy website as it is a much more complete address database than I have seen anywhere else so I will put it on my phone to help me finding properties I have to visit.

Put a LOT of CT1 on the threads, both the internal thread and external thread and screw it together. Wait for it to set before filling with water. You will probably never get the heater out again, but that doesn't bother you. If that won't fix it, the leak is unfixable.

And how well will it work when 12" of wet snow lands on it in the night while it is idle and how well will a fan blade totally enclosed in wet snow start up in the morning?

My though is they have a big hole in the top for the fan. So even when idle rainwater is going to fall in. I would want to see what is inside that "wet" space that might corrode and fail. and how they have protected the workings inside. A normal ASHP has air inlet on the back and outlet on the front, and very little rain enters at all, and even if it does it is just the evaporator that gets wet.

As in you go through a door from the bedroom into a shower room?

And how do you stop more than one being used in an HMO? you can get a relay that disables the others when one is in use, then you will just get constant complaints "the shower does not work" I am also intrigued by the layout, there was mention of showers in the bedrooms. How have you dealt with the electrics re a "room containing a shower" if the shower is really in the bedroom rather than a separate shower room.

A buffer tank is not going to magically stop heat loss into the ground. What I suggest, is you run a trial for a week or even a few days, where you turn off ALL the downstairs under floor heating and record your gas usage during that time when it is heating just the upstairs. For that trial period use just the stove and plug in electric heaters downstairs.

Something needs to be done. They have sold you a completely wrong system for your house, one that can never work properly and is doomed to just dumping a very large amount of it's heat down into the ground. If they are not held responsible for fitting a system like this, they will just carry on ripping others off.

Oh dear. I believe you have been miss sold the wrong system for your house. with no insulation under the concrete floor, you will be heating the ground under your house. There is no way this is ever going to work efficiently I would be going back to the supplier and tell them you have been miss sold the wrong system for this house.

Are you saying you have this "AmbiSolo" on the ground floor? I don't see any insulation in that system. It relies on the concrete floor having insulation under it already. Does yours have any such insulation under the concrete? How old is the house?

When the UFH was fitted, how much and of what type of insulation was fitted under the floor? What is the floor construction? UFH will never be cheaper to run than radiators. One member on here calculated that even with a very very well insulated floor system and running his UFH at a very low temperature, something in the order of 8% of the heat he put in was lost to the ground. But in his case that was 8% of a very small number.

I find it unfathomable that a house big enough for 3 bathrooms does not have a cupboard or a loft space that will fit a hot water tank. You can NOT do 3 electric showers (unless you have 3 phase supply) even 2 is pushing it.

None of the above. System boiler with decent size unvented hot water cylinder.