ProDave

Yes standard F pugs on the splitter. But rather than use that splitter, replace your simple 1 in 1 out amplifier with a "distribution amplifier" that has 1 input and typically 4 or 8 separate outputs all individually boosted. Edit: post crossed with @joth who said much the same thing.

So that's some kind of sacrificial anode system to prevent corrosion with the anode fed with a voltage / current. It looks like what you want to be connecting to is some form of stud with a washer and a nut that connects through to the anode. Has that thread and nut corroded to nothing?

Can you show a closer picture of what the red wire used to connect to? I am not familliar with this unit so I have no idea of what it claims to do and what is inside the cylinder. Do you have a link to the manufacturers site? installation manuals etc?

If you loft is currently 2M to the apex then no. Under building regs you need 2M headroom on the stairs all the way up to the "landing" and your present 2M headroom will reduce when you reinforce the almost certainly inadequate "floor" joists there at the moment, and insulate the roof. There are sollutions that basically take the roof off and put a "box" on the roof that is higher than the original roof. They look awful and you might not even get planning permission because of that.

I use this type of timer for my boost switches. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMSTBT4.html They give a switched 240V output and that drives a small relay that then connects to the MVHR. The details of how to switch your particular mvhr will need to be answered by someone familliar with your unit.

I would say address that question to your gas safe plumber. If he is willing to install and certify a second hand boiler, then I don't see a problem. All BC want is the gas safe certificate. They are not going to ask the age of the boiler unless it is obviously old and tatty perhaps.

Boilers and hot water tanks would be a good place https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/forum/139-boilers-hot-water-tanks/ But we won't tell you off if it's not entirley correct.

Hi and welcome. That's quite an introduction post. Best post your individual questions as separate threads in the appropriate sections. Don't get disheartened about not being allowed to do stuff yourself, there are still plenty of things you are allowed to do, but gas is not one of them.

Yes and very well done to you for seeing it through with a good result. What frustrates me is we have a government set on a path of slap a bit more insulation in and slap a heat pump in and that's the UK housing stock fixed and carbon neutral. I think they have totally under estimated the challenge ahead that they have portrayed as simple fix. There are going to be a lot of disappointments along that path.

Keep the battens. Fill any void with dry mix sand /cement 5:1 tamped down so it is level with the tops of the battens not above them. Then lay your engineered board fixing to the battens.

That is a lottery how it works. Pre Covid I know the local council tax assessor was visiting our site roughly monthly to have a snoop about, first to see if we had moved into the static caravan, and then later to see if we had moved into the house. That stopped with Covid. It was me that informed the council we had our completion certificate and that triggered the house being valued and us paying council tax on that from completion day. I could have just waited but we figured even if it took them a long time to realise, it would still be backdated to completion day.

Thank you for showing us what is possible. Before this thread I had never heard of enerphit. Now we just need to get the rest of the UK housing stock updated to this standard......

Well done and keep us posted. I keep saying all you need to install an ASHP is a plumber and an electrician who are capable of reading the installation manual. It is not rocket science. But so many plumbers and sparkies seem to shy away from it, and so many people seem comfortable to pay more for a "specialist" company to install it.

That on line supplier I think changed the make of the system they supplied so you may not have the same fittings as me. the twin to single adaptor I have the single flue slides up inside the twin flue but there is an additional pipe inside the fitting that goes down inside the single flue, ensuring as you say any liquid runs down inside the pipe.

Hi and welcome. I suspect that was my thread started some years ago. I caution that mine is an older version than the ones currently on sale and in particular the software and the user control panel is quite different from the current ones to what I have. If you have the newer version I may not be of so much help. Having got to the bottom of and worked around all the gremlins mine is now working just fine and heating my house and hot water nicely. Lets see if we can solve your issues?

Okay so you want to shorten the pipe by 10mm. Are you sure you cannot cut 10mm off the bottom where it goes into the top of the stove? Won't that still leave enough of the reduced section to go into the stove fitting and that would hide the cut end? Yes I cut the black single wall flue but I cut the top end that goes into the twin wall.

More details? Pictures? where do you want to cut it? What will the cut end join to? Why did you not buy the right length etc. I cut mine with a hacksaw, and the cut end goes into the single to twin wall adaptor and the cut end is hidden inside that fitting.

And after they have done that, you can connect the new house.......

when I lived in Oxfordshire, still days in winter were more common. In my 1930;s house this had an unwanted effect. The house had an open fireplace that I continued to use for a year or 2 before I modernised things a bit. It had no provision for an air intake, and the actual structure was quite air tight, it was just the doors and windows that leaked. So on a still day, with the fire roaring, it turned out the easiest path to draw air into the living room was in fact down the chimney into the (poorly boarded up) bedroom fireplace, down the stairs and under the living room door, filling that bedroom with smoke in the process. I soon learned to crack a window open when lighting the fire.

I would agree with all that. The only thing I would add is get a stove with ducted air intake, both primary and secondary, making it a room sealed stove, so when it is not in use, it is not leaking lots of heat out of the house. And position it carefully, so the heat from it can circulate to all of the house, not just one room with nowhere else to go, otherwise you might just overheat that one room. High pressure in winter can lead to stagnant air, so best not to light it then. Most people here have a stove, but the population density is so low it does not stop the lichen growing, nor does it clog my mvhr filters which remain astoundingly clean every time i service it. Another plus point for your list is a totally non automated non electric source of heat that will keep you warm in the event of a prolonged power cut after a winter storm. We used ours for 3 days on one occasion until power was restored (no mains = oil boiler in that house did not work)

A normal UFH system has all the pipe loops connected to a manifold with a circulating pump and temperature blending valve. A standard manifold has provision for a flow meter and an actuator for each pipe loop. Typically 2 or 3 pipe loops make up each zone. If you chose not to zone it at all, all you would be saving is a £10 actuator per loop and a £15 thermostat per zone. It would not save any plumbing. A few actuators and a few thermostats is a very small price to pay for controlability.

Put a flat screen tv behind a fireplace surround and play the log fire channel.

All finished. A total of 12 spindles made and fitted. I was then set another challenge. I needed to trim the gaps between where the spindles attach to the edge of the cantilevered section of the floor. I was just going to cut rectangles of plywood but I was told that's no good, it needed something more solid that would bring that edge out level with the outer edge of the spindles. That set me the challenge to find some planed timber with a finished size of 120mm by 32mm. I didn't hold out much hope of finding anything, but searching first amongst all the offcuts in the garage showed that was exactly the dimensions of the decking timber from the local sawmill. So one more length of decking purchased, sanded and varnished with the "bottom" smooth side showing and the upper ridged side glued to the wall.

I would say it depends where you live. Out here in the sticks in the Highlands, I have no problem with them. But all I know is you are in or near Bristol. If you are in a town or city I would say no, if you are out in the sticks then maybe?

Stone Source Inverness is good but that is probably too far from you?