ProDave

A buffer tank is not going to magically stop heat loss into the ground. What I suggest, is you run a trial for a week or even a few days, where you turn off ALL the downstairs under floor heating and record your gas usage during that time when it is heating just the upstairs. For that trial period use just the stove and plug in electric heaters downstairs.

Something needs to be done. They have sold you a completely wrong system for your house, one that can never work properly and is doomed to just dumping a very large amount of it's heat down into the ground. If they are not held responsible for fitting a system like this, they will just carry on ripping others off.

Oh dear. I believe you have been miss sold the wrong system for your house. with no insulation under the concrete floor, you will be heating the ground under your house. There is no way this is ever going to work efficiently I would be going back to the supplier and tell them you have been miss sold the wrong system for this house.

Are you saying you have this "AmbiSolo" on the ground floor? I don't see any insulation in that system. It relies on the concrete floor having insulation under it already. Does yours have any such insulation under the concrete? How old is the house?

When the UFH was fitted, how much and of what type of insulation was fitted under the floor? What is the floor construction? UFH will never be cheaper to run than radiators. One member on here calculated that even with a very very well insulated floor system and running his UFH at a very low temperature, something in the order of 8% of the heat he put in was lost to the ground. But in his case that was 8% of a very small number.

I find it unfathomable that a house big enough for 3 bathrooms does not have a cupboard or a loft space that will fit a hot water tank. You can NOT do 3 electric showers (unless you have 3 phase supply) even 2 is pushing it.

None of the above. System boiler with decent size unvented hot water cylinder.

I had already tried and failed searching screweys for Union, coupler and barrel and failed.

Yep that's it. Thank you. So it's a "socket" As always it's a case of knowing the correct name.

Will someone please give me the correct name so I can identify a plumbing fitting i need. I have two fittings each with a 1/4" BSP MALE thread. I want to join them together. I thought what I wanted was called a coupler, but searching for that does not find it. I don't mind if it's brass or iron.

We just use a manual timed boost, anything from half an hour to 2 hours, depending how late you shower (don't want it on boost speed at bed time)

Like I say, I am not a roofer, but the few slate roofs I have seen have all been nailed at the top, just like you do with concrete tiles. Every day is a learning day.

No you need to take the liners out of the wall and start again. 826+42+42 =910 so it will just fit with the liners tight to the frame with no spacers, and that hopes the frame is square and true. When I fitted mine, i made a gauge just by cutting a spare bit of wood to 826mm long and ensured that fitted between the two sides of the door liner.

The big issue with a non inverter heat pump is the high start up current, the DNO's get worried about them, causing your lights to dip when a large direct start compressor starts.

No, 22mm or possibly 28mm copper, with a set number of bends and a defined discharge position. I did this myself and the plumber who connected and comissioned the tank was happy, but this was a plumber I knew and with his prior agreement.

You can buy a Telford stainless UVC for about £1000 Are you really saying your plumber is going to charge £1800 to fit it? That would be 6 days labour at £300 per day to do what is probably no more than 2 days job. Try a different plumber.

I have never done a slate roof, but I question why the tops of your slates only just reach a little onto their respective battens? I would have thought the top of the slate would go all the way to the top of the batten with the nail hole positioned to put the nails in the middle of the batten? And could the wobbly slate not just have an extra bit of batten fitted lower down to support it's top edge?

I have never seen ceiling plasterboard fixed just with adhesive. It is usually screwed in place, but in the old days would have been nailed in place.

Decent air tightness is not expensive, it just requires everyone working on the build to understand what they are doing. The issue with dot and dab if not done properly is the void between the PB and the wall can become the famous "plasterboard tent" if the top and bottom are not fully sealed to prevent them venting to a cold loft or under floor space. THAT is where you should be talking to your builder. As this is a conventional block build, I would suggest you plaster straight onto the blocks. Very little to go wrong with that. The main reason dot and dab plasterboard is used is to prevent the need for a plaster skim and it is just taped and filled at the joints.

I am interested in what was there before. I am wondering as a replacement dwelling, you have had to almost hide it down in a dip behind a stone wall just to get permission, when it is a replacement dwelling. Was the original also hidden like that?

My thoughts on tumble dryers are well known. They exist to make towels and socks "fluffy" to the satisfaction of SWMBO, and that does NOT mean they have to come out dry. Final drying and drying of stuff that does not have the "fluffy" requirement is done on the airer in the utility room with an mvhr exhaust vent above it. Ours is a condensing tumble dryer and using that breaks my heartslightly less as it's heat stays in the room, compared to one that just blows 2kW of heat straight out of a hole in the wall. Spend the money and get a new dryer, small money in the house building scheme, and re evaluate what it is actually needed for.

I have my hot water in the tank at 48 degrees. That is plenty. That temperature was found by experiment, if i run a kitchen sink full of water using just the hot tap, I can just, and only for a short period, immerse my hands in it. There is no point having washing up water hotter than you can put your hands in. Occasionally if I want to soak something pre wash, e.g. a baking tray with something baked on then that is a case for some really hot water (as you won't be putting your hands in it) for that I run some water from the boiling water tap. I think the Mixergy tank concept is something that all tanks pretty much do anyway. I am happy with my Telford heat pump tank, and I would have thought the twin coil one linked above would do, but go for at least 300 litres.

Why do you think you need 3 phase? nice to get if you can but not essential for that size of property. I would go in with 36kVA 3 phase, that would easily do all you want and loads more. If the DNO cough at that, ask them what they can provide. In other words pass the buck back to them.

That statement and the rest of this thread would not encourage me to buy an unservicable unit like this.

Just out of interest how do you change these. They are full of "magic potion" not water. Does it just work in the principle you only change the heater when it is cold and the potion is in the solid state so it just stays put when you unscrew the heater?