ProDave

of the view from our kitchen window. This view of the mountains was one of the main reasons we wanted this plot, and why we deliberately set the house a bit closer to the road than the neighbours so we could see down the road in front of the other houses. And it looks best with it's winter coat on. Especially on a clear still sunny day like today.

the real milestone is your first MWh

Before I moved in i checked with just the treatment plant operating and it was clocking up 2kWh per day, so currently about 40p per day so about £146 per year. The metered units was very different to what I expected just be measuring the current drawn, no doubt due to power factor.

You will have to run the DC cabling down to where you want to fit the inverter and install a DC isolator. You will need to buy an inverter, dc isolator ac isolator and generation meter. You are legally obliged to notify the DNO under G98 but there is no cost and they can't say no. Make SURE the inverter is G98 compliant. They will want the make and model of the inverter to confirm it is. They will want some details and a pretty picture of how it is wired.

First time I have heard of Highland council doing this. At least it was a small sum. CIL in England can be many tens of thousands, if you don't apply for the exemption. Pot holes not much better here, though recently they have been doing a very cheap repair job that won't last long.

Nothing offensive but nothing remarkable either. My first thoughts on seeing the outside picture were "it's a re clad twin unit mobile home"

F plugs are about 10p each. Learn how to fit them to coax, it is very easy and robust and a quick way of making good patch leads just the right length. A much better connector imho that the old tv coax connector, especially the modern variants of that with a silly little tiny screw to clamp the inner connection to the pin (I much prefer the older, now hard to find ones where you soldered the inner core to the pin)

Yes standard F pugs on the splitter. But rather than use that splitter, replace your simple 1 in 1 out amplifier with a "distribution amplifier" that has 1 input and typically 4 or 8 separate outputs all individually boosted. Edit: post crossed with @joth who said much the same thing.

So that's some kind of sacrificial anode system to prevent corrosion with the anode fed with a voltage / current. It looks like what you want to be connecting to is some form of stud with a washer and a nut that connects through to the anode. Has that thread and nut corroded to nothing?

Can you show a closer picture of what the red wire used to connect to? I am not familliar with this unit so I have no idea of what it claims to do and what is inside the cylinder. Do you have a link to the manufacturers site? installation manuals etc?

If you loft is currently 2M to the apex then no. Under building regs you need 2M headroom on the stairs all the way up to the "landing" and your present 2M headroom will reduce when you reinforce the almost certainly inadequate "floor" joists there at the moment, and insulate the roof. There are sollutions that basically take the roof off and put a "box" on the roof that is higher than the original roof. They look awful and you might not even get planning permission because of that.

I use this type of timer for my boost switches. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMSTBT4.html They give a switched 240V output and that drives a small relay that then connects to the MVHR. The details of how to switch your particular mvhr will need to be answered by someone familliar with your unit.

I would say address that question to your gas safe plumber. If he is willing to install and certify a second hand boiler, then I don't see a problem. All BC want is the gas safe certificate. They are not going to ask the age of the boiler unless it is obviously old and tatty perhaps.

Boilers and hot water tanks would be a good place https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/forum/139-boilers-hot-water-tanks/ But we won't tell you off if it's not entirley correct.

Hi and welcome. That's quite an introduction post. Best post your individual questions as separate threads in the appropriate sections. Don't get disheartened about not being allowed to do stuff yourself, there are still plenty of things you are allowed to do, but gas is not one of them.

Yes and very well done to you for seeing it through with a good result. What frustrates me is we have a government set on a path of slap a bit more insulation in and slap a heat pump in and that's the UK housing stock fixed and carbon neutral. I think they have totally under estimated the challenge ahead that they have portrayed as simple fix. There are going to be a lot of disappointments along that path.

Keep the battens. Fill any void with dry mix sand /cement 5:1 tamped down so it is level with the tops of the battens not above them. Then lay your engineered board fixing to the battens.

That is a lottery how it works. Pre Covid I know the local council tax assessor was visiting our site roughly monthly to have a snoop about, first to see if we had moved into the static caravan, and then later to see if we had moved into the house. That stopped with Covid. It was me that informed the council we had our completion certificate and that triggered the house being valued and us paying council tax on that from completion day. I could have just waited but we figured even if it took them a long time to realise, it would still be backdated to completion day.

Thank you for showing us what is possible. Before this thread I had never heard of enerphit. Now we just need to get the rest of the UK housing stock updated to this standard......

Well done and keep us posted. I keep saying all you need to install an ASHP is a plumber and an electrician who are capable of reading the installation manual. It is not rocket science. But so many plumbers and sparkies seem to shy away from it, and so many people seem comfortable to pay more for a "specialist" company to install it.

That on line supplier I think changed the make of the system they supplied so you may not have the same fittings as me. the twin to single adaptor I have the single flue slides up inside the twin flue but there is an additional pipe inside the fitting that goes down inside the single flue, ensuring as you say any liquid runs down inside the pipe.

Hi and welcome. I suspect that was my thread started some years ago. I caution that mine is an older version than the ones currently on sale and in particular the software and the user control panel is quite different from the current ones to what I have. If you have the newer version I may not be of so much help. Having got to the bottom of and worked around all the gremlins mine is now working just fine and heating my house and hot water nicely. Lets see if we can solve your issues?

Okay so you want to shorten the pipe by 10mm. Are you sure you cannot cut 10mm off the bottom where it goes into the top of the stove? Won't that still leave enough of the reduced section to go into the stove fitting and that would hide the cut end? Yes I cut the black single wall flue but I cut the top end that goes into the twin wall.

More details? Pictures? where do you want to cut it? What will the cut end join to? Why did you not buy the right length etc. I cut mine with a hacksaw, and the cut end goes into the single to twin wall adaptor and the cut end is hidden inside that fitting.

And after they have done that, you can connect the new house.......