ProDave

I was going to suggest that. If it is just the bends at the end, then can you not fix it by digging up just a strip of the lawn and repairing / replacing the damaged sections?

What did they test for you? I don't see much posting about what you have been doing.

Yes, in the UK neutral is strapped to earth in the distribution system, so while officially a "live" conductor, unless there is a fault in the distribution network it is safe to touch.

This is the cheapest 200A 3 phase distribution board I have found https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/620464-4-way-tp-n-type-b-distribution-board-with-200a-isolator-incomer That would supply up to 12 single phase boards, 4 from each phase.

Why do you need 3 phase? And yes where does the 200A come from? 100A is easy, standard domestic consumer units and switchgear.

Could it be the original one was not blocked and you still have the same intermittent problem elsewhere?

What do you want to know? What project are you taking on?

Make it useful. I give you the "solar shed"

Or strip founds on land needing piling? I would be concerned if I was in one of the already occupied houses on the development.

Ours is similar. To get the SWA across the burn I went to the plot boundary where I erected a fence on the boundary line straddling the burn and the SWA crosses the burn fixed to the bottom of the fence. You could also build a nice foot bridge over the burn (on my to do list still) and use that to support it. My inverter is in a shed, roughly half way between the supply head and the panels with long DC cables to the panels. Volt drop on the DC side is lot less of an issue than on the AC side.

When I was choosing our bath waste for a similar "non dismantle-able" bath, I chose a McAlpine top servicable click clack waste. That may not help you at this stage, but can yours be dismantled from above?

Go on, make it easier. WHAT is it?

Yes, there are millions of UK houses (including mine) with suspended floors in kitchens.

Whatever you do, and whatever you buy, in the lifetime of the unit, the lights will need replacing. So make sure you allocate an accessible space for the drivers for the lights, so WHEN they fail you can get at them to replace them. Choose fittings where you can replace the lamp, not fittings where the LED is built in and the whole thing needs replacing. You WON'T be able to get replacements forever for that type. And lastly, set top boxes, Blue ray players etc, you need a place for those so make a cupboard or shelf for them in your design.

If the plywood is getting wet behind the plasterboard and other wall finishings, there is something seriously wrong. Check the boarding is not for aiding the racking strength of the structure.

Perhaps you can tell us what you are building? Being in Scotland and talking of coombed ceilings I am guessing a 1 1/2 storey house with rooms in the roof. What are you building the roof from? Ours was done with a cut roof supported on Ridge beams. It allowed the entire roof space to be unencumbered by intrusions other than the rafters themself. A much less cluttered design than say attic trusses.

We are in an east / west glen. We can't actually see that far, the mountains to the west are the most distant we can see which is no more than 10 miles, that is looking down the glen to the west. North and south we can't see far at all, can't even see the Black Isle. And looking north we are looking up hill out of the glen. So we don't see the northern lights very often, it has to be a spectacular show to get high enough to be seen over the hills to the north. I think it's only 3 times I have seen them.

Clearly the alterations have messed things up. Get both the electrician and the plumber to sort it. They broke it, they fix it.

Check all the motorised valves are opening and closing correctly. I wonder if it is stuck trying to do heating and hot water at the same time, something it is not supposed to do.

There really is a huge void between a lot of the mass market builders and best practice. I am perhaps lucky that I never worked for any of the big builders but i did do a spell subcontracting for an "eco home" builder who actually took insulation, air tightness and attention to detail seriously. And when it was shown to you, it really was not difficult to understand. They had one basic principle, they built the structure of the building and NO subcontractor was to drill any hole through the outer wall of the building. If the subbie wanted a hole, he showed them where they wanted it, and if they could not be persuaded him it was not required, then they drilled it and took care of sealing it after the pipe or cable was installed. That company were the ones that detailed the design for my house, and then another local building firm, who I had also worked for, and I knew they had similar high standards built the shell for me. The only experience I have of mass market builders was buying a late 1980's new build as my first house. It was a very cold house, that i now recognise as being a great big plasterboard tent. The principles of building well are so simple to grasp, that anyone that cares to actually listen could be taught all they need to know in a 1 day seminar. Isn't it about time something like that is mandatory for all "builders"?

ANY inward opening door will leak a bit. Our Rationel doors do. But it is understandable when you look at the physics. We have a west facing inward opening door. Wind driven rain regardless of any outside detail will run down the door and when it gets to the bottom, the outer seal stops it. This is the seal sealing the door to the frame. BUT there will be a small amount of water sitting in between the frame and the door above the seal. Guess where that goes when you open the door, yes, inside. If it is leaking all the time even when the door remains shut, then one of the seals is damaged, poorly designed or the door is not adjusted correctly to compress the seal when shut.

It sounds like they ticked all the boxes except for the "attention to detail" one. As above, not very surprising, but very disappointing.

Unless there is a planning condition requiring a wall, a cheaper way is replace it with a fence.

Yes my house is connected to the PME earth, but my static caravan remains on it's own TT earth.

I think you have to change the whole valve head and body. And there will be some wiring changes. Personally I prefer the dependability of individual 2 port valves. As I understand it a 2 port valve is a ball valve. A diverter is less sophisticated, think rubber bung swings round to block unused port.