ProDave

Don't forget legislation coming down the tracks that will demand a minimum EPC on rental properties. Now might be the time to think about upgrading the fabric of the building. I think the eventual target is all rental properties to be a minimum EPC C EDIT: Ignore that, I see the property is in Portugal.

I made a small recess, to house the power sockets and give space for cables etc. That allows you to mount the tv closer to the wall than if you just had surface sockets etc, but the tv is still in front of the wall and covers the recess. This was discussed before and the external dimensions of tv's are not standard so in x years when this one dies or you just want to change it, the next one won't fit the mm perfect recess.

Not understanding what you have. I was expecting a modem and router supplied by your BB supplier (may both be in one box) and the router would have some RJ45 network sockets, and you would connect a cable from there to a wifi access point at the back of the house. Are you trying a solution that receives the wifi from the suppliers kit and relays it?

An un used roof tile vent. I bet the builders miss calculated how many and where the vents needed to go and fitted one too many. That decision needs making early in the build as the roof goes on. Then perhaps later there was a change in the plumbing, perhaps the soil stack did not need a vent but an AAV was sufficient. In the short term I would create a little platform under that and put a bucket there to catch the drips.

Unless you can get the price down I would be going off grid. Solar PV and batteries for small loads and lighting, Diesel generator for large loads, should only be needed occasionally, welder etc. Wood fired hot tub. It would be interesting to see the quote.

The contractor that did ours wanted to see the planning permission and then took my word for it that we had not yet got completion. then they zero rated the work.

At the top of picture 2, where two wires terminate in yellow crimp connectors, to the left and right of that are red dots in the middle of those black blocks. Push those with a screwdriver to see if they push in and go click.

New 3.68kW panels will be 2 strings and will be the max your inverter can take. Then put the original panels on a separate inverter that does not need to be as big. And don't forget to ask permission from your DNO first to have more than 3.68kW

.... But just to be clear, don't tighten the nut until the resin is well and truly set which takes a few hours.

Just be aware if you turn it too far anticlockwise to increase the flow, it might unscrew all the way out, then you have to be quick screwing it back in again before you get too wet. Guess how I know.

You would need to look inside the UH4. I suspect at the moment only two of the UH4 zones are being used, and one of them is connected to both the L1 actuators. You would need to bring in an additional UH4 zone into use, the next spare one with the new Nest connected to that and the new zone controlling one of the L1 actuators leaving the original one as it was. Unless you know for certain which if the L1 zones goes to which end of the room there may be a a "try it and see" element to setting it up. i.e turn one end of the room's thermostat right up, the other end right down, and if the wrong end of the room warms up, swap them over.

Turn the boiler off NOW, yes RIGHT NOW and don't turn it on again until a proper competent gas safe engineer has corrected the issue. Assuming of course you do mean the flue is discharging inside the extension. If you don't mean the flue, explain what you do mean that is expelling "steam" with a picture please.

I am not familliar with your router, could yo post the make and model number or post a picture of all the ports (sockets) on the unit. My initial thought is rather than try to add a second wifi point, instead relocate this one to a more central position so it will cover the whole house.

I would say Electrical Additional Heating, i.e. a resistance heating element aka an immersion heater, probably used if you want the DHW too hot, for a legionairs heating cycle or if it is just too cold for the heat pump to work properly.

It's an electricians job not a plumbers job, that's why he does not understand. Show us a picture of the bottom rail of the manifold. The key will be knowing which pipe loop connects where on the manifold and then reconfiguring the UH4 and adding another thermostat.

It must depend on the material, my box profile roofing and my cheap corrugated shed roofing are both fixed with longer screws through the tops. Some very soft materials may not be suitable for that.

Thread moved to the roofing section. Your issue is most likely the fixing bolts are in the trough of the corrugations where lots of water runs down. They are usually in the peaks, where there won't be flowing water so less likely to leak. Take each bolt out one at a time, apply lots of waterproof sealant and re fit.

When you said you wanted it "raised up a bit" I expected an inch or two. What is going on the floor? I am not sure that stand is big enough to meed the space the "hearth" needs to be around the stove?

Get a set of screw extractors, drill an appropriate small hole in the screw for the screw extractor to engage into. Drill a pilot hole in the MDF for the rest of them so the screw goes in without too much effort. Throw away the rubbish screws supplied with the hinges and buy better ones.

Lots of glazing says risk of over heating, so choose ASHP and you can have cooling as well. AND fit solar PV which is an ASHP's best friend. It will do more good for you with an ASHP than it would for a gas boiler. You might be limited by your DNO how much you can have, 7KkW is good, you you are not guaranteed to be allowed that. Heat pumps are not new technology. They might be new to the rather backward UK population. Have a serious look at just getting your electrician and plumber to fir the ASHP rather than paying £££ for a "specialist" company. Lots here with appropriate skills have self installed them with good results.

Seen something equally uninviting at a customers house, where upon I decided I did not really need a pee and I would finish the job quicker and scarper.

Can you start by posting a picture of your supply and meter where they are at the moment, and then some plans showing where is is now and where you want it to end up.

Always a satisfying moment to get that bit of paper. well done. Now you can "finish" (if you get my drift)

NO You only have to look at Harled (rendered) Scottish houses in exposed locations. When you get driving rain, it is clear to see the render colour on the wall darkening as it absorbs rain, and then takes days or even weeks to dry out again. This problem shows itself clearly on rendered garden walls where they get cold, freeze and crack and the render and it falls off in lumps. A rendered wall here is lucky to last 2 winters. This does not happen on rendered houses, because there is always just enough heat escaping through the wall to prevent the wet render from freezing. (though my findings with my new house are that may become a problem when walls are really well insulated)

Can you explain the short walls more? Are these essentially the top of the outside walls of the house with the roof sitting on top of them? Or does the roof slope right down to floor level and these are partition walls with a triangle corner of loft space behind them? Could it be the blown in celulous has slumped, or was never filled completely so there are voids at the top. Overall I don't think it looks bad.