ProDave

Your "cheap " rate seems to be 24p per kWh but the penalty is 37p at other times. the standard Octopus single variable rate is 27.26p So you are saving barely 3p per kWh for your cheap rate but paying 10p extra at other times. Go to a single rate, fit your A2A heating, and some solar PV just for self usage. Do as much of your heating and big loads like WM etc in the daytime and dump any surplus PV not already used to water heating via an immersion and a solar PV diverter. No need for export or any export payment.

This was what I used, an old office fan, not very powerful With that sucking air out of the house, I could go around looking for leaks. The house was pretty air tight, the telling thing, when the fan had been on for a couple of minutes, go and open a window and there was a big whoosh of air entering back into the depressurised house.

So what results are you getiing?

I would go for the dropped curb and crossover. That will probably be cheaper than a piling rig for just a few piles.

It will, but you will be chisseling out plaster, fitting the wiring and back boxes than patching up the plaster. So much easier with dry lining.

STOP right there. 25mm battens into the blockwork and 12.5mm plasterboard. THEN your idea to retro fit the wiring and feed up to each socket will work.

Probably not a very helpful suggestion, but that's why I like a 45 degree roof pitch, everything is so much easier. But a more useful suggestion I made a big square out of 3 bits of timber forming a 3, 4 , 5 triangle. you could make a similar jig but calculated to give you a 42 degree angle.

Both in same. Less chance of a loose connection breaking the earth continuity (which usually goes un noticed because everything "works")

So 660kWh in 2 weeks is 47kWh per day, or an average of almost 2kW continuous use all the time. That sounds like the HP is running at full power about half the time, so it's probably putting an average of 6kW of heat into the house all the time.

9000kWh per year, assuming you heat the house for 6 months of the year, suggests an average of 375kWh per week in the heating season, so that would be 750kWh in 2 weeks. So your 660kWh at almost the coldest spell you will get sounds what you would expect. The fact a 4 bed new build needs a 12kW ASHP and they estimate the annual heating usage of 9000kWh shows the gapbetween developer houses and self builds. I use 1400kWh heatimg my 3 bedroom house in a year and another 1000kWh for hot water with a 5kW ASHP.

Last night was the first day the really cold weather reached us, -6 last night. Most of the week it has barely dipped below 0. And none of this "heavy" snow has reached us yet, at least not at our level. The tops of the hills are nice and white though. Heat pump here still just running on it's normal daytime times, off at night.

I am not convinced these "credit" market things do anything more than create some non productive jobs to move some money and bits of paper around a system so some companies can claim to be smug and "met targets" The fact we seem to be "solving" the problem with schemes like this gives me little hope that we will ever actually solve the real problem.

Most modern TF construction, the inner frame supports the roof and the outer brick / block or other is decorative / rain screen.

I was getting the Landy ready for an outing once, and a mouse ran out from the instrument pod. I have not found any damage. yet.

Sorry that looks like the office canteen where I used to work. I just can't disassociate that ceiling with "office"

Once you have repaired it, wrap it in copper tape. That's what we did in the previous house to stop mice chewing the dishwasher hose. (new house is mouse proof)

Be careful. That age it could be asbestos. To be sure before doing any more get a bit tested.

Does it have to be all one building? A collection of smaller ones for different uses might make more sense, e.g one set up as a spray booth with ventilation.

All graphs are showing a step in temperature at roughly 02:00 when it is not heating, what happens then? The step is a similar size to the other steps later on when it is heating.

Those graphs confuse me. If the set temp is 16 degrees and the actual temp is fluctuating around 17 degrees, why is it even calling for heat? Are those room temperatures? If so I can't believe the room temperature goes up and down so rapidly, so I would be looking at some other local heat source confusing the thermostat. Is it near a fridge for instance and the heat from the back of that influencing the thermostat?

It looks like the rope is either not in the right place or too thin?

Once the bridge unit is screwed to the adjacent tall units it won't need much more support. Our last kitchen had shallow cupboards as the bridge (to give the FF plenty of ventilation so were nowhere near the wall and were only supported by the adjacent units.

Rotate the bath 90 degrees and put it on the wall where the towel rail is. Then a corner shower cubicle left of the basin

Air to Air heat pump for the summer house independant of the main house.

You have to wonder how these firms work. I wired a bungalow near here (single phase) but I did not do the ASHP. Instead a local renewable energy firm installed it, and they installed it's own consumer unit to power it. Perhaps that is what BG are proposing but don't understand basic things about electricity. It is quite shocking how many electricians don't understand anything about 3 phase. I am fortunate I started in an industrial environment where it was perfectly normal.