ProDave

Yes but what the people that say it is carbon neutral can't grasp is it you left the trees standing, and generated the electricity instead from wind turbines you would stop sending CO2 up the chimney at DRAX and the trees would be absorbing CO2. Best thing to do with them is leave them standing until you can fell them and make them into something useful that will last a long time keeping that carbon out of the atmosphere. Until the people that plan all this realise this, I have little faith in the plans for net zero actually working even if fully implemented.

Very hard to photograph but the short part of the L is recessed into the door jamb and screwed there, and the long part on the floor supports and locates the pin, with just a single screw at it's outer edge for stability.

Yes it is an L shaped bracket that came with mine. The upstand of the L is recessed into the door janb and fixed with 3 screws into that. That leaces it pretty stable. There is then just a single screw at the end of the bottom part of the L that screws into the floor for good measure. I will take a photo later. Perhaps your solution might be to make a similar bracket that locates your pin but is fixed to the jamb like mine?

Just to follow on from my earlier comment about my own bifold doors. I fitted them this morning using the supplied pivot pins rather than ordinary hinges. In my case the bottom bracket is an L shaped bracket that fixes to the door jamb and then has a single screw at it's outer end for stability. As i was fixing into oak flooring, I just used a short screw that I knew would not reach through the floor board so no chance of hitting the UFH (which should in any event be missing from this bit of floor)

Like being told Drax burning imported wood on an industrial scale is "CO2 neutral" and is not putting CO2 into the atmosphere.

One sentence sums it up. "The Norwegians also benefit from well insulated houses" Which brings the conversation back to what do we do with the millions or poorly insulated houses in the UK. Our traditional answer when energy was cheap was just pump loads of heat into them as fast as it leaks out.

No 1, if you are expecting to lay in the cables and then get an electrician to sign it off then find that electrician first and discuss the details with him. Electricians can sign off work partly done by others, but are not obliged to, and many will not entertain that. What cable are you proposing? 2.5mm conduit singles will fit in 20mm conduit okay. If you really want to, 2 lengths of 2.5mm twin and earth will JUST fit if you are careful and keep them flat, no twists. NO chance of a third (lighting) cable in the same conduit if you choose that. Personally I would just run one run of conduit horizontally from socket to socket no tees. And a separate conduit up to the lights. Read up and understand safe zones or agree routing with your chosen electrician.

The issue is "the long wave goodbye" The old BBC Long Wave transmitter that broadcast the radio tele switch command is in borrowed time. It is old technology, huge valves used in the transmitter are no longer available. The BBC bought up all the spares it can find and it is reputed to be running on the last working pair, being run at reduced power to try and eek out the last bit of life from them. You would think the solution is to switch all off peak tariff users to a smart meter. Surely a smart meter has bidirectional communication so that can be used to do the rate switching. At last an actual technical reason why in some cases a smart meter might be better for a consumer. But it still won't help those too remote for a smart meter to communicate. It would mean all customers with THTC first switching to ordinary economy 10 or economy 7. They would lose the only advantage of THTC, the 24/7 cheap rate for heating appliances. But THTC has so many other issues like it has become very expensive, and is considered "complex metering" so most energy suppliers won't take you on and you are stuck with one or perhaps 2? I bet there are a few technical bods, worried that if these last 2 working valves fail, it all might end sooner than anticipated and that will leave a problem to solve quickly.

I can see no reason why you could not do some form of suspended construction based on block and beam with outdoor tiles on top but it is not something I have experience with.

You don't want top soil as infill for something like that, it will take ages to settle anc compact even if you compact it as much as you can. I would seriously look at making that at a suspended construction. What do you want as the finished surface? Timber decking is the easy option here. with solid infill material, beware of building up the outside level above any damp proof course, it should remain 150mm lower than any DPC

No, 100 ohm connected to 240V is (V2/R) is 576 watts, apart from wasting a great deal of power, your 1/4W resistor would last milliseconds and end in a big flash. 100K Ohm would be about 1/4W but without trying it you would not know if it would quench enough.

It was described as Carrara Marble and 30mm thick

That was never discussed as an option, they instantly said they would supply a replacement. There has been no mention of returning the wrong one. If that turns out to be the case, then when we make our posh shed, it just might have a bar made with the spare shelf

The first link would probably do, but we would need 2 of them. A bit pricey for something so basic looking. The second link looks a lot nicer but even more expensive. But it does give me ideas how to just go and buy some wood and make my own. When building our first house we considered Caithness stone for the hearth. Got a similar reaction to you and a quite ridiculous price to cut a piece to size. In that house we used ceramic tiles on the concrete hearth. This stone for the shelves (and previously for the kitchen worktops and stove hearth) came from Stone Source in Inverness.

The stone wasn't cheap, too big to be a cheap offcut deal. but SWMBO wanted stone so she got stone. the compromise is the two bottom shelves being wood. Wanted good solid brackets that can take the weight without bending and bought these ones https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/644302988/heavy-duty-shelf-bracket-industrial?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=metal+shelf+brackets&ref=sr_gallery-1-13&frs=1&organic_search_click=1 They come as plain bare steel and had 2 coats of black hammerite. With this being a small room with a big cost, it is definitely the most expensive bit of the house in £ per square metre.

This is progressing reassuringly slowly. Mainly due to taking a long time to make up our minds just how to proceed. But today was a milestone, we collected the stone shelves and lifted them straight into place. Unfortunately the bottom one was supplied wrong, it should be a little deeper. They are re making that one. The bottom 2 shelves will be painted wood. Until the correct bottom shelf is fitted I can't put the door on or else it would be in the way. Now we have another design problem. The wall opposite the main shelf wall, we want some shallow shelves, big enough for tins and jars, so shelves big enough for a standard baked bean tin, with a lip to stop them getting knocked off. Preferably something ready made as a shelf unit. But i can't find anything. Looking for something like this which you can buy from some kitchen suppliers as a shelf unit fitted to the back of a kitchen cabinet door But I can only find those as an option to buy with a kitchen unit. I just want something similar to screw to a plain flat wall. any ideas?

The obvious place for the tv and comfy sofas is the living room at the front. The obvious space for the dining table is the bit room at the back with the kitchen. From personal preference you WANT doors between the living room and the kitchen diner. I like a pair of glass panel doors or maybe a bifold set. There will be times you regret not being able to separate the kitchen from the living room without them, unless you like sitting down for a quiet night witht he hum of the fridge and dishwasher spoiling your peace.

I am about to fit a (smaller but still quite heavy) bifold door to my pantry. Quite a lot of people that reviewed the door I have bought have ditched the top and bottom pin arrangement as being lousy and not well built, in favour of just hanging the end door on normal hinges mounted into the door frame as any other door hinge. Is that an option for you to consider?

And what does it look like if you move the polythene from in between the two different types of insulation to inside the PUR?

Tenants are not renowned for being helpful. Out last BTL when the tenant moved out, I found the bathroom ceiling bowed with a small hole in it. It was a leak from the roof. It must have been leaking for some time. It would have been nice if the tenant had told us, it would have been an easier repair if I had been told earlier.

How long ago was the completion certificate issued?

If it really is only just passing under the extreme corner I would probably say nothing, stop worrying and carry on. It would be easy to divert at a later date if you ever did find something had blocked.

Perhaps a sketch of the site layout showing where you think the pipe goes under your footings and where it would continue to in both directions if it maintained a straight line.

So we have a plan to fix the planet, but even now, nobody knows if the plan we have will work, will it stop warming, will it cause the planet to cool, etc. So in spite of being certain it is man made CO2 that is causing the problem they don't have a scoobie if stopping all man made CO2 will make any difference or not. No wonder some people cannot take this seriously.

If it's below the bottom of the trench, how do you know it is there?