ProDave

So £5K for 13.5kWh assuming I can install myself for £0 The key to working out the economics is what is the rated number of charge / discharge cycles of the battery? Google suggests 4000 cycles. So assuming you can store the rated capacity and use it each day, that will be 13.5 * 4000 = 54,000 kWh of stored power before end of life. Divide by the cost, £5000, then you get 9.2p per Kwh as the cost of storing your energy. Assuming your off peak is 15p cheaper than peak, then the real world saving is barely 5p per kWh

What is needed is drainage ditches across the driveway. I don't know how to describe what i see often but a 6" wide trench across the drive with a hard edge both sides, a car will drive over it slowly (inverted speed hump) and the water will run into the channel and off to the side. Of course it relies on somewhere for it to run to but onto (note ONTO not under) a field will do. The whole point is keep it on the surface and push it onto adjoining land to soak in or run off. Trying to lose that much muddy water will just clog any underground soakaway. A neighbour here achieves the same thing with a speed bump across his driveway, it pushed the water down hill past his drive to carry on down hill and be someone elses problem.

Have you properly costed the pence per kWh of storing electricity in a battery? It is a while since I have done that, but I previously looked at batteries to store surplus solar PV (i.e free) electricity, and concluded when you properly costed the batteries by allowing for the expected life and replacement at end of life the "free" stored energy was barely much cheaper than grid electricity. I would be interested to see properly costed up to date figures.

Are you seriously going to start a neighbour dispute over the loss of 1" of garden that you don't even use yourself?

Do you really want them moved a few inches, or a lot further? If the supply head is mounted on a board and there is slack in the cable an understanding electrician might move it, you have already sad the gas people would move there's a few inches as well. The problem with moving the whole lot is the DNO have to move the supply head then the energy provider has to move the meter. In between those you are without power. Best of luck coordinating that to happen the same day.

Your present WC is "close coupled" the one you are proposing is "low level". They will NOT join together. Your issue with the flush I suspect is just that your cistern has so little water in it. This modern water saving lark just often means inadequate flush water requiring 2 or 3 flushes. That hardly saves water does it? My pragmatic solution when we had a house like this was use a different toilet for a No 2 and use the one with the poor flush just for a pee.

I was going to ask the same. Post some pictures showing where they are and where you would like them to move to?

Most toasters will pop up if the power goes off, so won't resume. Anything with much electronics will need human intervention, e.g a posh oven with a display and a timer will probably do nothing until you reset the time on the clock, but a basic oven with just a mechanical function switch and a mechanical thermostat will probably resume. Some things like televisions will power up in standby, others might remember what they were last doing and switch back on again.

Thanks for letting us know the result. IMHO those are not the best valves, not the ones I would choose but I doubt you chose them either. My view of that make is tainted by a job I had where the head had failed beyond repair, so bought a new head, only to find at some point they had changed the design of the valve body and the new head would not fit the old body even though they looked identical.

Do NOT have an extract in the pantry. That will just draw warmer room air in and warm the room, which is not what you want. It is not routinely occupied so does not need an air supply. Just leave it, and keep the door shut as much as possible. Against all expectations our pantry, partitioned off from the corner of the kitchen / diner seems to be sitting about 2 degrees lower than the main room.

Dimmer switch must be LED compatible AND LED bulb must be "dimable" If either are not, you will get flickering lights.

Check that the 2 motorised valves are de energised (the black lever on the side will show you) If both are off, and the pump is running, disconnect the two orange wires from terminal 6 (turn power off to do that) then turn back on, is the pump still running?

Post some pictures of the pump and where it's cable connects to and any other controls like motorised valves, wiring centre etc. Are you saying the pump is definitely connected to permanent L? Is it a system boiler or combi (save me googling it)? Is there a normal "wiring centre" (big junction box?)

No. Jeremy calculated with his really well insulated floor and a low UFH temperature, he was losing 8% through the floor. So a completely un insulated floor would lose a lot more than 20%

You want something like this https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-492113-mdpe-reducing-coupler-25mm-x-20mm/14632 I think what you have is mdpe to copper.

As above get a standard tv. Perhaps design your tv wall with an over sized recess surrounded by some form of border / edging so that part could be changed if a replacement was a different size. And for the main tv, forget a sound bar, proper surround sound wins hands down.

Link to the part please? Exactly what is it described as? And what are you trying to join to what? 25mm mdpe to 20mm mdpe? If so it looks nothing like I would expect.

CE presumably meant to say CH as in central heating? Depending on the boiler, the pump should either come on when there is a "call for heat" to the boiler, or some boilers control the pump and have an over run function. If it is on all the time that is wrong. Need more details of the heating system, boiler type, are there any motorised valves etc.

Incoming water temperature makes no difference. It is a fixed heater element that is always on, it does not adjust the power. If the incoming water is colder you will have to turn the temperature dial up, which will reduce the water flow rate to achieve the output temperature you want. Most people don't realise that in the majority of electric showers the temperature know bust adjusts the flow rate of the water through the shower. It could be the rcd function tripping it, that's the trouble with rcbo's, if it trips you don't know if it was over current or earth leakage. It was probably a 7kW shower installed originally. You could just change your 8.5kW shower for a 7kW but you would get even less hot water out of it.

In a perfect world yes. Depends on the reference method, but if it has been working without issue for a number of years with a cartridge fuse, then the cable is probably not going to come to harm. I would start by measuring the actual current drawn in use.

So it is losing pressure but nobody has bothered to try finding the leak?

8.5kW at 230V is 37 amps. It will be the over current function that is tripping, not the RCD function. Replace it with a 40A rcbo.

The regs are different in Scotland, they were not needed in each bedroom just on a landing and within 3M of a kitchen door. I put a couple of extras. Utility room, I want to know if the tumble dryer is smouldering. Plant room / workshop above the garage, it is so far from other rooms I want to know if anything is going on in there. Kitchen /diner was just covered by the one heat alarm. Aico do a heat and CO alarm all in the one package that made things neat in the kitchen diner (gas hob and WBS so needed CO)

AICO without a doubt. And definitely NOT Fire Angel.

It will have a generation meter. So take the reading from that and divide by 12 and that will be the average per year. I hope you managed to transfer the remainder of the FIT contract when you bought it. That would have been a 25 year FIT contract so another 13 years to go and probably something well over £1000 per year. It's will currently be paying over 60p per kWh generated