ProDave

Reading that datasheet in the link above, it shows a graph showing how much heat pump and how much gas it uses vc outdoor temperature. Below 0 it uses all gas. If you fudged it and tried to use it without the gas boiler, I expect your first issue is with an outdoor temperature less than 0, it would refuse to work as a heat pump. I would buy the right thing, a proper monoblock heat pump described as that with no mention of hybrid.

Do you have a link to the ebay item?

Having the water flowing too fast won't make the floor heat any less well. You need an automatic bypass valve at the far end of the flow / return loop to ensure water always flows even with one or more of the loops shut down.

Ouch. 750W of "wasted" (not contributing to the heating) power all the time the heating is on. Many on here say run a heat pump at a low temperature 24/7. That would be 18kWh "wasted" so I would not suggest that. This is a hidden "cost" when people say a GSHP is more eficcient than an ASHP. So a start to solving this high usage might be to increase the radiator temperature and run the heating for shorter periods? Also forget zoning, all on or all off. Zoning may keep the system running just to get a last bit of heat into the cold room. So better run it all on or all off and balance the system to even out temperatures.

I believe it is just to distribute the liquid. Our problem was lack of area for an infiltration field, and high water table. The high water table could be dealt with by a raised filter mound or something like the Puraflo system above ground, but whatever you did we still needed that area of ground. Our resolution was SEPA agreed to discharge into the burn, something they don't do automatically but seem to need convincing there is no alternative. The silly part about that was we could have had enough land for an infiltration field except for the fact that can;t be closer than 10 metres into the burn. So instead of having an infiltration field that went very close to the burn, not allowed, it all goes directly into the burn. I never could understand that logic.

Which village are you in? that looks very familliar but I can't quite place it. A previous house was in a low lying river valley and suffered like that, though out house was on a local hump so never got wet.

That is an awful lot of money to avoid running a low power air blower pump. The "no percolation area" claim is probably misleading. That is why we tried for the Puraflow system and exactly the reason building control rejected it, insufficient percolation area.

Can you post a link? Google just comes up with portable solar panels for me. I tried getting a Puraflow filtration system as a solution for our plot but building control rejected it. We ended up with a perfectly normal air blower type treatment plant discharging to the burn.

Walls first. Leave a gap at the bottom a bit wider than the flooring you expect to lay. Skirting board was invented to cover the gap between the bottom of the wall and the floor.

Look at other threads, Most "installed" prices seem to be inflated to harvest the grant for the benefit of the installer. If you just buy an ASHP and then pay an ordinary plumber and electrician to install it you will get it fitted for under £5K

Just put salt down. Any idea of using electricity to melt the ice when we are trying to reduce our fuel usage is just completely bonkers.

We often criticise the large builders for building cheap shoddy houses (I am not at all saying this happened with this builder) but even with the economy of scale is shows it is hard for a large builder to be profitable.

What is wrong with a convector heater with a simple heating element, a timer and thermostat built in. I took a major dislike to "posh" electric heaters when the wonderful EU introduced "LOT20" intending to make electric heaters more efficient by enforcing electronic controls. The first one I installed, I removed a week later, as the customer just could not understand the controls, and it kept shutting down with a message "window open detected" What a load of rubbish.

Daytime high of -2 today, forecast -8 tonight. Stove burning nicely. I collected a load of firewood in the Landrover last weekend and going back for more this weekend. This will be for next year or more likely the year after. Chainsaw was busy Saturday afternoon.

Are you sure it was not YOU that took a year to get used to the building? I have relatives in an old stone farmhouse and when you first go there you notice the damp smell as you enter and the general damp feeling. After a week or 2 there, you stop noticing both of those things.

But what if it is in a rental property and every time the tenant switches it off the program settings are lost? When there is no need to turn it off because it is remote controlled by some smart device?

Another thought. How many properties does that serve and who owns it? It might be better to do any works needed right at the top and share the costs?

It is my opinion that the market should value houses with a poor EPC lower than those with a good EPC to reflect the higher running costs or the future upgrade costs. Which is why at the moment I don't wish to own such a property as I don't want to be the one suffering the drop in value when the market wakes up to reality.

It does in my opinion. But this is similar to the bathroom fan isolator switch and I am still waiting for someone to show me where it says it needs one. I learned early on NEVER EVER have a fan isolator switch in a rental property.

Don't get me started on that, first hand experience. No I don't want to be a landlord again, EVER.

Well when you compare an un insulated house with about the most expensive heating you can get (bottled LPG) to the same house with internal wall insulation and an ASHP it is going to be cheaper. What this shows is the level of (in their words) very invasive work required to achieve the result. The issue is can the government afford grants to all the old poorly insulated houses, or are the owners expected to pay? This shows what is possible, now someone has to discuss the logistics and finances.

I doubt anyone makes a 22kW single phase charger, so that really tips it in favour of 3 phase. But put all the house just on one phase, makes it easier to self use solar PV generation for example.

Do you have any details? Make and model of the heat pump? What water source? borehole or slinky etc? And what are you using for heat delivery to the house? radiators? UFH etc. Have you had a proper heat loss calculation done on the house?

Since MI's make no mention of a switch I would be happy fitting just a FCU if that is what the customer wants. Ask him to show you where in BS7671 it says you have to have a switch.

^^^ Agreed, why are they still suggesting such a poor air tight target, and not even making a mention of MVHR? surely say air tightness less than 1.5 and MVHR would be reasonable? Mind the mass market builders might have a learning curve to achieve that.