ProDave

What is the orientation of the plot and the summer house? I fitted mine on an east / west split, at the time thinking it would give longer generation than south facing, but completely overlooking the tree shading issues. So let the plot as a whole and any shading issues e.g to the east and west guide you. If I were doing it again (and if I fit more) I would be going for near vertical panels south facing, to maximise winter production (there is always ample in the summer)

If you bought it from a local shop or merchant then take it back. If you bought it on line, it is probably not worth the hassle of sending it back. Just leave a review saying it arrived damaged. It hardly looks like high class joinery, and is clearly going to be painted, so I would pull out the errant staple, put a nail or screw in it's place and deal with the splinter with filler at the time of fitting the surround before painting. It would be a completely different matter if it were say nice finished Oak and that would remain on show.

Chances are the TD duct is leaking and letting warm moist air into the garage. Best solution. Change for a condensing TD. More efficient, no need for a vent, all the water is collected, and the heat used stays inside your house. Just block up the old redundant vent hole. Even better solution, get a heat pump tumble dryer, but that is more money.

That sounds like they gave you a different IP address to find this restore page, different to the IP address for the normal setup page? If so it would be handy to post that restore IP address here, it might help someone else in a similar position.

Please tell us as much as you are able, what he had to do to get it to work?

3 phase cable is probably twice the cost (4 core cable vs 2 core cable) Another issue though is what infrastructure is in place already. We are near the end of a single phase 11KV spur. If I really really really wanted, or had to have 3 phase, then about half a mile of overhead 11KV line would need to be upgraded from single to 3 phase, and the transformer feeding our house would need replacing with a 3 phase one. You can imagine the cost of that would be completely stupid.

In what way is it dangerous?

Building regs in Scotland at least allow you to have about 20% less area of soakaway for a treatment plant vs a septic tank. Is that because they expect the soakaway from a ST to degrade and get clogged? The USP of the puraflow seems to be you don't need a soakaway, it will just drain into the space of the ground it occupies. Building control here did not agree with that and said it would need the same soakaway area determined by conventional means, which is why they rejected it for us.

So in Wickes this afternoon (visiting for something else) we saw this I liked that, and (some will say strangely) the fact the induction unit was controlled by knobs not non tactile buttons. So went to enquire. "Oh that is obsolete can't get that any more" "In that case can I buy that as ex display" "No we would have to get permission from head office to do that" "Well could you phone head office and ask them please" "no" Even finding a second assistant who gave much the same answer did not help. SWMBO almost had to drag me away as I was starting to get angry.......

SEPA like a partial soakaway, that is what we have. it means in the summer, when the ground is able to absorb some water, then less goes into the burn.

Whatever you do, I would remove ALL plasterboard on all external walls. I almost guarantee you will have a plasterboard tent. So back to bare block, add your IWI then VCL / Air tight layer, battened service void and plasterboard. Care with taping and sealing every single joint in the membrane and seal the life out of anything that has to penetrate the membrane. Make sure where the VCL meets the ceiling and floor, any penetrations up or down are well sealed. There will still be cold air in the ceiling void unless you are continuing your renovations to that and the upper floor? I have no idea why you propose to do nothing to wall D and seemingly leave the plasterboard tent in place?

Yet...... It was the requirements for rental propertied that got me. You can't do an EICR for a rental here unless you are registered with a competent persons scheme. So for the last 2 or 3 years I have been in the stupid position I can wire a new house, issue an EIC and building control will accept it, but if the owner then wants to let it, Highland council won't accept an EICR from me. I can't be doing with nonsense like that.

I would aim high, and quote say 80A per phase which is about 19 kW per phase or 57kW If they come back with a silly price, then talk about reducing the power needed.

We also don't know their other usage. Heating is less than a 1/4 of my energy use.

I am leaving (electrician). That is mainly because I am retiring, at least a year later than I wanted to, but I had to wait for other things to fall into place before I could finally quit (a property sale) Why anyone wants to work a day later than they have to for financial reasons beats me. BUT even if not retiring, I was getting disenchanted with the industry, the sheer number of people I meet who are frankly incompetent bodgers, and the extra regulation burdens that might be intended to raise the standards, but all I see is more hassle placed on people like me to keep proving you are competent, and it has virtually got to the point with me that I could not carry on much longer without going back to college to update my qualifications. Something I have no desire to do any more.

There is not enough detail. If they were on here, I would be asking: Is that high bill actual or estimated? What tariff are you on and what is the unit rate? Take daily meter readings at the same time of day and post them for us to analyse. Real meter readings not from an app or IHD. Post the EPC details of the property so we can see what the claimed performance is, if new build you might even have the full SAP details. Without any of that we can only speculate

Do you have ANY old spare router, e.g an old BT home hub? Not to expect to use it, but just to connect it to your computer and see if you can access it's web interface via LAN. when you say you get nothing at 192.168.1.1 what EXACTLY do you see on your screen? e.g an error or time out message?

Perhaps the first thing with the hosepipe test is spray the front for a prolonged time, and see if it leaks. If it does not, then spray a lot of water on that side of the balcony and see if it leaks there. At least to start with identify the general area of the leak.

Can you post a very close up picture of the detail from the outside of the top of the leaking window and the bottom of the window above it. I would put my money on the window sill of the window above it and water getting back into the frame when the wind blows. In a dry day get up a ladder with a hose and an observer inside. Spray water first onto the render just above the leaking window, if that does not show water ingress move up a little to be squirting water at the window sill of the window above. Be prepared to spend some time squirting water, it may take time to work it's way through and show.

SWMBO wants induction, but I want gas, partly for the reasons above, and partly it will work in a power cut. So the compromise is have both.

Possibly, but the source does not instil confidence wrt warranty. I have now found this pair that at least are the same size https://cookology.com/product/collections/black-products/cookology-ggh306bk-30cm-2-burner-gas-on-glass-hob-with-cast-iron-pan-supports/ https://cookology.com/product/collections/black-products/cookology-cit301-30cm-domino-induction-hob-black/ Because they are cheap and an unknown make, I would be tempted to buy two of the induction hobs, one as a "service spare" Still looking for more options preferably from a known make and reputable source.

I don't know about this particular one, but for electrolytics I will only buy Panasonic 105 degree low ESR

Looking at separates, I have found a 2 burner gas hob and 2 zone induction hob by the same manufacturer. https://www.arebos.co.uk/en_gb/gas-hob-glas-ceramic-2-zones.html https://www.arebos.co.uk/en_gb/home-living/kitchen/cooking-hob/induction-hob-2-cooking-zones-3400w.html Never heard of that make and they are cheap, so probably not good? BUT one is 52cm deep and the other 51cm. So would look stupid side by side. How stupid is that. This search may take a while.......

When we built our house, at a time of restrained budget, I fitted a 4 burner LPG hob which was an ex display sale at a give away price from Howdens (but then I had to re jet it for LPG) and was only meant to be temporary. 5 years Later, it is time to change it. We have always fancied a mix of gas and induction. One thought was 2 separate (but matching) 2 burner hobs side by side or a dual fuel hob. I throw it open to the forum for recommendations. All I have found is this one https://www.appliancecity.co.uk/cooking/hobs/mixed-fuel-hobs/smeg-pm3643d-65cm-frameless-mixed-induction-and-gas-hob-black/ But the price!!!!!!! and it does not even say it can be jetted for LPG.

So are you saying the 140mm mineral wool gives the 0.14U and the PIR, presumably also 140mm gives the 0.11U You would expect with the same thickness, mineral wool will give the lower U value, BUT will have a longer decrement delay and would be the one I would choose.