ProDave

.... But just to be clear, don't tighten the nut until the resin is well and truly set which takes a few hours.

Just be aware if you turn it too far anticlockwise to increase the flow, it might unscrew all the way out, then you have to be quick screwing it back in again before you get too wet. Guess how I know.

You would need to look inside the UH4. I suspect at the moment only two of the UH4 zones are being used, and one of them is connected to both the L1 actuators. You would need to bring in an additional UH4 zone into use, the next spare one with the new Nest connected to that and the new zone controlling one of the L1 actuators leaving the original one as it was. Unless you know for certain which if the L1 zones goes to which end of the room there may be a a "try it and see" element to setting it up. i.e turn one end of the room's thermostat right up, the other end right down, and if the wrong end of the room warms up, swap them over.

Turn the boiler off NOW, yes RIGHT NOW and don't turn it on again until a proper competent gas safe engineer has corrected the issue. Assuming of course you do mean the flue is discharging inside the extension. If you don't mean the flue, explain what you do mean that is expelling "steam" with a picture please.

I am not familliar with your router, could yo post the make and model number or post a picture of all the ports (sockets) on the unit. My initial thought is rather than try to add a second wifi point, instead relocate this one to a more central position so it will cover the whole house.

I would say Electrical Additional Heating, i.e. a resistance heating element aka an immersion heater, probably used if you want the DHW too hot, for a legionairs heating cycle or if it is just too cold for the heat pump to work properly.

It's an electricians job not a plumbers job, that's why he does not understand. Show us a picture of the bottom rail of the manifold. The key will be knowing which pipe loop connects where on the manifold and then reconfiguring the UH4 and adding another thermostat.

It must depend on the material, my box profile roofing and my cheap corrugated shed roofing are both fixed with longer screws through the tops. Some very soft materials may not be suitable for that.

Thread moved to the roofing section. Your issue is most likely the fixing bolts are in the trough of the corrugations where lots of water runs down. They are usually in the peaks, where there won't be flowing water so less likely to leak. Take each bolt out one at a time, apply lots of waterproof sealant and re fit.

When you said you wanted it "raised up a bit" I expected an inch or two. What is going on the floor? I am not sure that stand is big enough to meed the space the "hearth" needs to be around the stove?

Get a set of screw extractors, drill an appropriate small hole in the screw for the screw extractor to engage into. Drill a pilot hole in the MDF for the rest of them so the screw goes in without too much effort. Throw away the rubbish screws supplied with the hinges and buy better ones.

Lots of glazing says risk of over heating, so choose ASHP and you can have cooling as well. AND fit solar PV which is an ASHP's best friend. It will do more good for you with an ASHP than it would for a gas boiler. You might be limited by your DNO how much you can have, 7KkW is good, you you are not guaranteed to be allowed that. Heat pumps are not new technology. They might be new to the rather backward UK population. Have a serious look at just getting your electrician and plumber to fir the ASHP rather than paying £££ for a "specialist" company. Lots here with appropriate skills have self installed them with good results.

Seen something equally uninviting at a customers house, where upon I decided I did not really need a pee and I would finish the job quicker and scarper.

Can you start by posting a picture of your supply and meter where they are at the moment, and then some plans showing where is is now and where you want it to end up.

Always a satisfying moment to get that bit of paper. well done. Now you can "finish" (if you get my drift)

NO You only have to look at Harled (rendered) Scottish houses in exposed locations. When you get driving rain, it is clear to see the render colour on the wall darkening as it absorbs rain, and then takes days or even weeks to dry out again. This problem shows itself clearly on rendered garden walls where they get cold, freeze and crack and the render and it falls off in lumps. A rendered wall here is lucky to last 2 winters. This does not happen on rendered houses, because there is always just enough heat escaping through the wall to prevent the wet render from freezing. (though my findings with my new house are that may become a problem when walls are really well insulated)

Can you explain the short walls more? Are these essentially the top of the outside walls of the house with the roof sitting on top of them? Or does the roof slope right down to floor level and these are partition walls with a triangle corner of loft space behind them? Could it be the blown in celulous has slumped, or was never filled completely so there are voids at the top. Overall I don't think it looks bad.

Reading that datasheet in the link above, it shows a graph showing how much heat pump and how much gas it uses vc outdoor temperature. Below 0 it uses all gas. If you fudged it and tried to use it without the gas boiler, I expect your first issue is with an outdoor temperature less than 0, it would refuse to work as a heat pump. I would buy the right thing, a proper monoblock heat pump described as that with no mention of hybrid.

Do you have a link to the ebay item?

Having the water flowing too fast won't make the floor heat any less well. You need an automatic bypass valve at the far end of the flow / return loop to ensure water always flows even with one or more of the loops shut down.

Ouch. 750W of "wasted" (not contributing to the heating) power all the time the heating is on. Many on here say run a heat pump at a low temperature 24/7. That would be 18kWh "wasted" so I would not suggest that. This is a hidden "cost" when people say a GSHP is more eficcient than an ASHP. So a start to solving this high usage might be to increase the radiator temperature and run the heating for shorter periods? Also forget zoning, all on or all off. Zoning may keep the system running just to get a last bit of heat into the cold room. So better run it all on or all off and balance the system to even out temperatures.

I believe it is just to distribute the liquid. Our problem was lack of area for an infiltration field, and high water table. The high water table could be dealt with by a raised filter mound or something like the Puraflo system above ground, but whatever you did we still needed that area of ground. Our resolution was SEPA agreed to discharge into the burn, something they don't do automatically but seem to need convincing there is no alternative. The silly part about that was we could have had enough land for an infiltration field except for the fact that can;t be closer than 10 metres into the burn. So instead of having an infiltration field that went very close to the burn, not allowed, it all goes directly into the burn. I never could understand that logic.

Which village are you in? that looks very familliar but I can't quite place it. A previous house was in a low lying river valley and suffered like that, though out house was on a local hump so never got wet.

That is an awful lot of money to avoid running a low power air blower pump. The "no percolation area" claim is probably misleading. That is why we tried for the Puraflow system and exactly the reason building control rejected it, insufficient percolation area.

Can you post a link? Google just comes up with portable solar panels for me. I tried getting a Puraflow filtration system as a solution for our plot but building control rejected it. We ended up with a perfectly normal air blower type treatment plant discharging to the burn.