MikeGrahamT21

Exposing the clay pipe is doable, I’ve had to tap into a few in my time on my 60s bungalow. all depends how they were put in, back then if done correctly, the clay pipe should be surrounded by some plastic, like a thick plastic bag, and then the concrete, so in theory they should remain separated, but isn’t always the case and a few of mine needed extra work. until you manage to expose a bit you won’t know what your dealing with. As above also make sure your tapping into the right drain for your needs

Consider SPC LVT rather than the normal stuff, it’s a lot stronger and tends to have integrated underlay, this is what I used in bathroom recently and it was good stuff to work with

I’ve got a blauberg Cleanbox, it’s still on its first carbon filter 3 years in, and has done a cracking job, not had any smoke smells since it went in. the other filters have been replaced once, a new G4 and then replaced the F7 with a H15, but agreed they are expensive. I too found the Comfowell, but not til after I’d got this one. It’s available in the UK from Paul HR direct - https://www.paulheatrecovery.co.uk/product-category/mvhr-ducting/comfowell-modular-air-manifold-silencer-system/ id probably have gone for that just based on cost if I’d found it sooner!

Looks like the very same lintels i have, ideal homes build by any chance? So the inner lintels if they are the same as mine will be chamfered toward the outer leaf, meaning no chance of leaving it there without it touching any concrete outer lintel. How are you resizing? Are the openings getting smaller or bigger? If smaller, then they can stay as they are, they would only need removing if you were going bigger. I opted not to touch these lintels due to their size, and they'll be a good 200KG plus in weight

Best thing you’ll ever do, MVHR

If the cavity isn’t already filled with something this will need doing prior to EWI. otherwise I don’t see a need for any airtight works in the cavity itself (and it would be almost impossible to do successfully), it won’t be open to the room, the cavity should be closed at the reveal, if it isn’t this needs doing using a cavity closer. remember your airtight layer is in most cases the inner most layer of your fabric buildup.

Is there a reason why you can’t switch to a non combustible insulation material all round that area? Maybe your planning on using insulated plasterboard? If your set on PIR, maybe think about some kind of metal plate behind the stove to deflect some of the heat, and leave a gap behind it for airflow

Just been reading through my last post from end of May, and thinking how on earth did it take me so long to get to this one 🤣 A lot of blood, sweat, tears and swearing later, and i've finally finished the bathroom, which has exceeded what I imagined i might be able to create, I still keep walking in and thinking, naaa this can't be my bathroom. So another room brought to a close 🙂 Those panels on the wall were actually meant for the living room, sound absorbing panels for the home cinema, but despite having ordered 'Natural' and them looking off white on the internet, they came with a blue tinge to them so wouldn't have gone. When i asked for a refund, they didn't want them back and just sent me the money, so I thought they'd be useful in the bathroom, and have massively dampened the echo in there. Aside from not plastering the sloped ceiling, everything else you see internally i've done myself, including the cabinets, which I really enjoy making, i took woodwork at GCSE but was at school at the time when IT was just getting going and consequently we were all pushed down that route. Walls are painted with F&B Ammonite, and the ceiling is F&B Wevet, mixed by Johnstones Trade Best success? Probably trusting myself to measure 4 times, cut once, and actually get it right for once...The solid oak top on the toilet/sink back, £130 alone that cost me, but it came out bang on! Total cost for everything was just a shade under £4k. Onto my new snug next which is actually well underway, but i'll post another entry when its all done and dusted in a month or two's time!

Is the cable run direct? Does it go via a patch panel or is it just a cable terminated at both ends? Any punch down modules on the ends? Any electrical cables running nearby? (they can cause interference, especially if the cable isn't shielded twisted pair, most is unshielded (UTP) as its much cheaper)

Have a look at this guys blog, he did a similar thing and has lots of data both with and without buffer: https://protonsforbreakfast.wordpress.com/

Unfortunately it would go in landfill if you disposed of it either in your bin or at the tip. As OnOff says, also free cycle, sure there will be someone who’ll make use of it

I follow this guys blog, lots of data for 3 years of his heat pump now, a worthwhile read for anyone considering one: https://protonsforbreakfast.wordpress.com/2024/08/21/2024-summer-summary/

You’ll likely need to import them, but these will do the job https://www.celofixings.com/heavy-duty-system-resitherm/1473-resitherm.html

Ask the local planning department for pre-planning advice. I'd say if this is a residential area, and it matches in with the other properties on the street, i can't see why it wouldn't get passed, the plot looks big enough to take it

I'm planning on using a Tapo system at some point in the future. I have their video doorbell at the moment which works really well, comes with a hub which takes an SD card to hold recordings, there is a subscription option but it just gives cloud storage (not needed if you have a large SD card) and rich notifications. Their external cameras double up as floodlights and 2 way audio/sirens which i think is pretty neat.

Looks like F&B isn't actually owned by Crown, its owned by Hempel, and both Crown and F&B are their subsidiaries. Knowing what businesses are like, i would hazard a guess that both of these businesses will be completely separate entities, and won't have any dealings with each other, nor be allowed.

Thats very interesting, I bought some Crown Trade paint recently (from DCO) mixed to an F&B colour, and was told that their mixing system doesn't allow an exact match due to the detection technology they use, whereas Johnstones which i also bought in an F&B colour does allow an exact match, so probably worth noting that Crown may not exactly match

95 is relatively young in terms of UK building stock! Should put you on the front foot for upgrading it at least! Look forward to your results and story along the way. Good luck!

I agree with @joe90 keeping a bedroom all one colour is a good idea, makes the space more relaxing as nothing wants attention it just all blends together. My furniture, curtains and bedding and even carpet are all a similar shade. 25% off paint mixing at B&Q at the moment if you fancy a farrow and ball colour on’t cheap!

Doesn't look like a crack caused by the purlin, otherwise it would eminate from the point of the corner of the timber, though its hard to see with the cobweb. Looks like a poorly cut block unless anyone knows better. I shouldn't think anything would come back from the SE to cause any worry on either party, and if it does, looks like you've got another load bearing wall available, which you could build up to also support the purlin very easily.

Absolutely love how you've labelled your seating positions on the 3 seater 😄 Definitely recommend a dishwasher, you'll never look back and will save loads on water bills. I think your beam question would be for an SE, maybe someone on here has done something similar, but thats a fair span unsupported, unlikely to be impossible but could be financially unviable. What load would it be holding? You are at an advantage that there is no living space above, so there would only be dead loads to calculate.

Lovely looking plot, and very nice design. Love 'The Hide' 🙂 Good luck with it all!

😳 at least they landed the supports over a joist, could have been worse

Are your neighbours against removal of the flagstones and the soil? could help to solve the issue, and the placement is bang on

well I suppose your looking at 30 years of wear. If the room it’s in isn’t humid then it’ll probably last forever, just seals and a little grease every now and then, but that would be same for a new one