MikeGrahamT21

From memory the new one was from the economy range and the existing one on the inner leaf is absolutely huge, so if that’s the case then both will be min 30mins. @nod What kind of mesh will I need for the job? Expanded metal? Thanks Mike

As title really, I’m used to steel lintels requiring additional protection in the form of plasterboard, but do concrete lintels need the same or can I just go straight in with bonding coat? Thanks!

Looks like your missing the cill, but outside pic will confirm

Please post some photos of the installation and where the water leaks, will help us try and figure out whats happening

Thank you, he looks to be suffering greatly at the moment, 1st bowel cancer around 17 years ago, which recurred another 3 times, now has a stoma but it’s spread to a kidney and he’s lymphoma too, horrible to see, he didn’t even have the energy to talk to me other day when I was visiting 😞 he’s done so so well bless him. I’ve got him to thank for my interest in DIY and building, he was a builder back in the day before the cancer got him

Life can be absolutely brutal at times, be kind to yourself and take things at your own pace. Hope the job hunt has proved successful for you? I’ve been on with my renovations for approx 16 years now, have always found it helpful to have something positive to focus my energy on, and in that time I’ve lost my mum, my wife and currently my dad is very ill in hospital with terminal cancer; I’ve often forgotten to be kind to myself along the way. Sending best wishes

Thanks to the relatively mild weather this winter i decided to start chipping away at the bathroom project, which is being extended into part of the extension which was finished over a year ago. This gave me the opportunity to install the bath, sink and toilet in the new bit, at which time I’d totally disconnected the old bathroom allowing me to strip it out and that’s worked really well for my as I struggle to do more than 4hours in a single day so I could keep doing a bit and stopping when I’d had enough. didn’t fancy tackling the ceiling for plastering in the new bit so got a pro in to do this bit for me, all done in a couple of hours which was nice. and made the most of the space and got the painting done after putting a layer of 10mm marmox board down ready to accept the underfloor heating mat Next job was to start making a frame to hold the toilet frame and the sink and cabinet Decided on making my own cabinet rather than paying silly money for an MFC one, got pine furniture boards, a pocket hole jig and a new router and came out with this which I’m pretty happy with that all got painted and the sink installed, wall mounted tap and the wet room panels that I’m using both for this and for the walk in shower area all installed. got to work cutting the OSB backing and wet room panel for the toilet in prep for the final big push to disconnect the old and commission the new, that was a hard days work! And then bath and toilet all installed once the shower area is complete the bath will be disconnected again to lay the underfloor heating, self leveller and the flooring before being put back in place, and eventually building the wall and plastering it. Made a start on stripping the old bathroom out Next job is to patch up the loft insulation where the old spotlights were, new wiring in place for a single light fitting this time, airtight membrane adhered to the walls and then battens before reboarding it ready for plastering. Floor is coming up also to be replaced with 22mm chipboard to match new bit.

That leakage has improved even further since, why I’m not quite sure as the firmware is still the same, but my power curve now looks like this on a daily basis: Having not needed to charge from the grid so far this month, from 1st to 12th I’ve only imported 1.38kWh, and the majority of that will have been small spikes over the max output of the inverter, which are few and far between but can happen on a real dark day which we’ve had quite a few of lately. Estimated cost is £0.33 for import so far this month (exc standing charges) and I’ve been paid almost £10 for my export to the grid. Gas usage is slightly elevated this year due to the old bathroom being ripped out and rather cold air coming up from under the floor, which stands around £6 exc standing charges, so I’m in a small profit so far this April

Have a look at my blog, as i'm doing the same kinda stuff, might be helpful for you:

So for the purpose of the solar, the additional amount of space which will come available on the south side will be fairly limited as you said. Depending on cost of G99 in your area will likely be the deciding factor for you, but since the panels are fairly cheap these days, you'd probably be better buying enough to do the entire roof including the new bit, and then adding them on when the roof area comes available, having to amend an existing install will have its additional costs however, so it would be worth finding out how much that might be to weigh up your decision.

I believe you can have more than the 3.68kWp in panels, but still remain on a standard under 16A circuit, you'll lose out on the peak power available via panels, but get more year round, though i'm not 100% certain on that one

Northern Power Grid is anything from £650 up to £10k (ex VAT) for low voltage G99

How much extra capacity is the extension likely to give? You are already at the maximum 16A for a standard install, any more and it would need to go to DNO for a G99 which in itself costs money, if say it only gave you an extra 1kWp it probably wouldn’t be worth the hassle. if the roof is likely to need replacing any time soon, this would be one thing to have done before the works. they seem to have specified two inverters, one for solar and an ac coupled for the battery, this wouldn’t be advised for a non-FiT install, better off with a single hybrid inverter as you’ll get fewer losses on the conversion between AC and DC.

Yes absolutely fine, my unit came with 20mm flexible pipe like you get on a dishwasher/washing machine, just drips out

Self adhesive breathable tape it specifies https://www.builderdepot.co.uk/wraptite-tape-100mm-x-50m?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAuYuvBhApEiwAzq_YifAiLwSC0NIFRUl0LYEG73Uatlf9z2-oWwS69VZb36WkUZUMfK38ixoCmOgQAvD_BwE That type stuff should be ideal, minimum 100mm wide. it seems to be their preferred product https://www.insulationshop.co/image/catalog/pdf/Kingspan/Kingspan_Kooltherm_K106.pdf

I’d think plywood would be the best option, stable and won’t suck the moisture out of the wallpaper paste as fast as MDF. Hardboard goes bendy the second you look it so probably not ideal for putting paste on either

Welcome! Look forward to seeing your progress on the build

Only one way to know for sure, buy a test kit and get it tested

They got in touch with their technical department, and yes I need the sticky mat embedded in 10mm of self leveller, in case anyone is wondering about the answer to this question...so a return it is

Had thought about and still considering using cable and a decoupling mat, but since it would still need self leveller I may as well go sticky mat if I can’t use this foil mat. I’ve already got a thermostat, warmup 4ie which I’m currently using in the existing bathroom, existing and new will join together once completed.

So i went ahead and bought a 140W/m2 foil underfloor heating mat for the new bathroom im working on at the moment, thinking that was suitable to go under Stone Plastic Composite (a type of LVT) flooring. Floor construction is suspended timber, will 100mm insulation between joists, and a 10mm marmox board on top. I wanted to ask about the method of laying the foil mat, and whether a further XPS layer would be required to get rid of the potentially hard surface of the marmox, and was told yes, XPS layer, then mat. However they then advised me that laying SPC on top of the foil mat wasn't advisable as it would end up showing tramlines of the heating cables through onto the surface over time, and recommended MDF below the SPC, until i made them aware it was a bathroom, they then said I need the sticky mesh mat and self leveller. I'm more than happy to return and go with a sticky mat and self leveller, but i've also found other foil mats online and they seem to be saying that the above minus the MDF is absolutely fine for SPC flooring When i asked where i bought it from, i'd already sent them an email but was impatient and went on live chat which is where the above came from about sticky mat, but have just received a reply to my email ... Having asked: Their reply was simply: So as you can probably guess i'm now rather confused. If i can help it i'd really rather not use self leveller just from a mess perspective mixing it all up. What have others done with this type buildup? I did reply to the message and told them what i got from the live chat other day, awaiting reply.

same for my areas council, head of building control been there over 30 years and he’s retiring in a couple of weeks

how about speaking to a solar installer? Might be something they’ve come across before.

Bar tenders friend, if that won’t shift it nothing will. if it’s true marble though the stain will have seeped in, but still worth a shot, it’s pretty cheap

Have you contacted GSE? also their install guide - https://www.gseintegration.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/GSE-IN-ROOF-SYSTEM-Guide-dinstallation-EN-4.2.pdf looks to be batten and counter batten to leave a nominal 25mm air gap to remove condensation. and the full install manual - https://www.gseintegration.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/GSE-IN-ROOF-SYSTEM-Manuel-dinstallation-EN-V13.1.pdf does your installation follow everything in there?