MikeGrahamT21

I have one area which is quite large in total, covered by a fairly big double vertical radiator, i was hoping once i'd finished and everything was fully insulated and sealed up, it would be up the job of heating the whole space, but I think the kitchen lets it down (furthest away from the rad), which is dot and dab (which i've tried to foam behind, but still get air leakage, probably due to thermalite blocks shrinking), and poorly fitting spot lights (which is on my to-do list), with 4 double glazed circa 2011 velux windows. Heating graph shows a fairly normal, dark winters day: When its sunny the thermal gain is good enough to help heat the room quickly: I've no more ports available on the manifold, and the days of taking the floor up to feed pipes through is now gone, however I've had a thought, and wanted to know whether it was feasible... So the boiler is on the wall right next to where the kitchen is, and i'd wondered about drilling two holes through the wall and tapping into the 22mm flow feed (which goes to the manifold), and making it another bypass radiator to go with bathroom (though this goes via manifold). Had a look and found some 22mm valves, with a 3/4" inlet fitting, but radiators with this seem few and far between, will keep looking. Boiler Flow Pipe > Small Rad > Flow Pipe to Manifold > to rest of rads > and then Return back to boiler Another idea, which would give out much less heat, would be to make a radiator from 22mm copper pipe. What I want to know is basically is this feasible? I'm thinking it could impact flow rates to the manifold hence why i've gone looking for large bore fittings? Any one ever done anything like this before? Radiator sizing would have an output of between 1000 and 2000 BTU, just pinching a small amount of energy on its way to the rest of the bungalow. Just to add current flow temp is set at a max of 46C, but my Tado optimises this based upon the weather, and it generally sits around 42/43C. Of course this could be turned up which would help, but i'm trying to future proof in case I have to have an ASHP at some point. Thoughts? Cheers Mike

Yeah, white vinegar is a traditional solution, but a proprietary mould remover is also ideal, just not bleach

probably a bit late, but bleach on mould is a no-no, it doesn't get rid of the mould, just hides it away. Use a purpose made mould killer or equal parts white vinegar and water solution to properly get rid of it, leave it to sit for an hour before wiping, and don't forget to extend the treated area beyond the bit you can see, for all the bits which aren't yet visible to the eye.

I'm pleased with my windows from Modern UPVC Windows, but I self installed. They do provide installation now however: https://www.modernupvcwindows.co.uk/

And if your messy like me, swap number 4 and 5 around! lol

Mine is like that and have no issues. I have an AAV outside, so after all of the connections on its way to sewer

Doesn’t look lime based, not light enough. as @nod said, 4-1 sand and cement will be ideal for granite

Consider how your thermostat is connected too. The gradient (unless I’ve got the wrong gradient meaning) which @JohnMo speaks of is relevant when the boiler is connected to thermostat via an analog method (on/off), but once you connect via digital (opentherm/bus) the thermostat can then take over, and it’s basically weather compensation, a heating curve which tells the boiler the flow temperature for a given external temperature. how is your stat connected?

Some boiler controls have a hardwired minimum burn period, I know I’ve read it for Tado which I have, and I think this was set at 3mins, so maybe worth checking which the manufacturer of your controls. another thing you could try is seeing if you can turn down the pump speed on your boiler, I read about this whilst reading the Tado stuff and it can help with short cycles, with a few additional benefits, less pump noise, power consumption and presumably it’ll help it last longer. Most boiler pumps are preset for max pump speed from the factory, and with your oversized boiler, turning it a lot lower may be a really good idea

If you’re wanting to replace your floorboards, go with OSB 18 or 22mm Tongue and Groove, and then cover them with diluted SBR bond for additional water resistance. This can then be topped with @nod‘s suggestion before tiling

Soudal flexi foam is another product in the same category as IB330

Yeah I know that’s what the guide shows but was meaning without the pipe, sounds like they’ve been installed correct anyway. Cross ventilation will be the key here, as ETC says, get some air flowing through the eaves, many different ways of achieving that

I’ve got the B01 model, same manufacturer

I’ve been doing exactly the same this winter, decided to buy a very similar model of camera to you. Be warned…it becomes rather addictive! 😂 I’ve found a few air leaks I didn’t know were there, and a few areas where I’d not settled the insulation quite right leaving thin areas, all really easily sorted with the thermal camera

No evidence on the photos that those vent tiles have been properly installed, at present they'll be venting the bit between the tiles and the felt, not much use if its non-breathable. See here, this is for connection to a vent in the house, but you should be venting into the loft space: https://www.roofgiant.com/resources/files/srv10u_srv10-20_updated_feb19.pdf/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAp4O8BhAkEiwAqv2UqB9fneUWJcPJHrCEtULX3YEKj8pgurFjbm9ZRjvhn452GNYmdHg2ThoCuFUQAvD_BwE I guess you may have already done this, just not shown on the photos

Ahh yes thats not MVHR ducting, just ventilation ducting. I had assumed it was this style ducting which is the correct 125mm thermal ducting for MVHR: https://www.i-sells.co.uk/product/kair-self-seal-thermal-ducting-125mm-1-metre-lengths-box-of-6/ The pressure drop with the one above is more to do with unsmooth internal surface and susceptibility of being squashed, bent too sharply etc

I think you've got that mixed up, larger ducting wouldn't give a pressure drop, it would just mean the air speed flowing through would be lower for a given flow rate. Pressure drops come from restrictions, filters being blocked etc would give a high pressure drop than a brand new filter as an example.

Don't read too much into this... Although an outright ban has been dropped, for now, it is likely that other methods will be used to ensure that ASHP remains the most obvious choice for all households, and the government has just setup a 'nudge' department to do just that, Psy-Op. I would imagine the gas tax will make a return at some point too!

The wall which has 50mm PIR in the 70mm cavity is an issue, cavities need to be fully filled before applying EWI, otherwise its a bit pointless, you just end up with a thermal bypass and the chimney effect within the cavity, so get this filled up before you do this area. With regards the pebbledash, as long as its sound, not loose etc, this will be fine, you will be bonding your insulation boards with both adhesive and mechnical methods, you may just use a little more adhesive than a flat wall would otherwise use, so make sure you account for this when ordering. If its loose in places but not all over, remove the loose and build it up with levelling render before continuing, and if its all loose, then its all off before starting EWI. With regards material choice, Mineral wool is less thermally efficient, but you would also gain acoustic benefits from using it, whereas EPS is the opposite, better with thermal, but less so with acoustic.

If its real cold, get a good fire going near your pile/bags of sand to get a small amount of heat in it, should help no end in -6C, but ideally, wait til next week when its a bit milder, never ideal i know!

OpenTherm is just one of many Digital Connectivity methods, this is from the Tado installer manual: All of the digital methods allow two way comms, and the setting of things like flow temperature on the fly from the controller, Tado for example now has flow temperature optimisation which changes on an hourly basis depending on outdoor temperature. It also has the ability to request a specific amount of heat, as opposed to analog which is a simple on or off, and the boiler would modulate down based upon the temperature of the water, this in theory stops huge overshoots of temperature from happening, and therefore wasted energy. An UFH system loop would always require a mixer, due to the low temperature requirements, I suspect this could be omitted if it was the only heat source, with no wall hung rads. Does it save on Gas, it should do in theory, but I have no data to back that claim up, as I've always ran this particular boiler in Opentherm mode, so have no comparison. And boiler cycles, i've never really taken note of how many times it fires per hour so couldn't say for sure

What type of felt is it? Plastic coated or breathable? inevitably even the best ventilated loft spaces will get some condensation unless the property has a vapour control layer, also highly unlikely

I've yet to change my carbon filter in the blauberg, its been in there about 3 years now, with no noticeable smell ingress, when there is active smoke smell outside. My cleanbox sits pre-MVHR, since i wanted to take advantage of the H13 HEPA before it got to the MVHR, and is in a cold loft space. There is a G4 type filter on the intake in the MVHR which i put in there, firstly to fill the space where it goes, and secondly to ensure the cleanbox did as it should, filter has remained clean and looks and smells as it did brand new out the box, so not convinced there is any carbon dust, nor should there be with the pelletised system.

Yes thats the one. The openings are hexagonal on mine, presumably to increase surface area

I’ve been on induction for years, used to have gas, and this Christmas went to family for dinner and ended up cooking with their gas hob, forgot the nice heat wash you get from the gas combustion plus steam, so glad I’ve got induction at home!