MikeGrahamT21

I'll do some poking about first, only got the thermal camera other day, so didn't even know this was an issue. Could be that i've just made a glaring error that needs fixing lol. Personally didn't have much choice but to run in loft, without making a serious mess of everything i'd already done, not for me thanks!

its 75mm semi rigid stuff, currently buried under around 300mm of wool insulation, but the loft is cold, very cold, almost no heat from the bungalow gets up there as under the 300mm wool, there is 100mm PUR insulation board. The manifold boxes (made from metal) are also up in loft, again buried under a lot of insulation. Theres definitely improvements to be had, and those figures were at -3C outside, so loft will also have been near this. I agree though, it is a lot of heat loss, and i hope to improve on this.

Where will you be running your ducting? Mine is in cold loft, but heavily insulated so it loses a bit more temp on its way to the terminals. When it was like -3C the other week, internal temp was showing as 21.2C (extract) and the supply temp was at 19.4C, with a Vortice HR200BP unit, not sure what its rated at efficiency wise but it'll be less than the Zehnder. By time it gets to terminals its down to around 15C on a very cold day like above, i'm hoping to improve on that and have got a thermal camera to check everything, just not had time to do it yet

Soudatight dries like stretchy paper, paints over easy enough, but the fibres that are in it to give it strength tend to clump together, and you can see it through the paint, not the end of the world but if your after a good finish

16kW isn’t really much in the grand scheme of things. I can see it was hanging around 220 @ 10kw which would be just OK, lower end. You are correct, it will pull more amps to make up the wattage (P=IV from memory). Do you have accurate monitoring on multiple devices, just thinking so you can collect lots of data for them. May also be worth speaking to Octopus as they may be able to speak to UKPN and move it along. As for damage, not too sure but most devices in UK are 220-240, so I would assume there’s a possibility there. I think it’s normal to dip away a little during load as above, but not as low as you are getting. Theyll likely want you to confirm with smart meter data unless they get that on their end.

You need some of this stuff to push into the gap: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174673142912 Haven't spent time checking its cheapest, but that type.

Could be, in which case I’ve no idea what that setting means, almost seems doubled up doesn’t it?

As a guess, I’d say system charge power rate is depth of discharge, 100% will depend on what battery is attached, but in any case will shorten its lifespan, 95% is a better option. And system charge SOC limit I would guess is the lower limit at which point it pulls from the grid for a short while to prevent the charge from going too low, again prevent unnecessary damage to the cells.

10mm is better than no gap at all, ensure adequate vent openings as above and the air with get through just fine

I’m not sure if this will help your case any? https://www.labcwarranty.co.uk/technical-blog/gaps-around-windows-sealants-and-finishing-trims assuming you are expecting a FENSA certificate, it may be worth speaking to them about it to see if they have any rules to be adhered to by the fitters

More or less done these two rooms now, which after finishing the bathroom were basically just flooring and decorating, making a bit of furniture and then moving some other furniture I already had which was always destined for the dining room. I’ve got planned some bench seating for the wall side of the dining table to make it more space efficient, but not any time soon. I think this will be the first time, certainly in the last 10 years, where I have no outstanding ‘filler that just needs sanding down and painting’ kind of jobs, everywhere has skirting board which is painted… the little things in life. Everytime I walk in the bungalow and see the French dresser, it just melts my heart, knowing that my late wife would have loved to see it where it is now, we did buy it while she was still alive as they were stopping making it and was perfect for the look we were going for, managed to bag the dining table off eBay from the same range for around £200 I think brand new, and the chairs were ones we had from ikea which I upholstered and painted white to match. I know the plug sockets need covering, managed to locate them just slightly too high! The bookcase is to be backlit with an LED strip light (awaiting Black Friday being the right bugger I am!) and then will be filled with all my books, photo to follow at some point. The hallway has also been redecorated and the floor sanded and reoiled - out of anywhere this small passageway has suffered the most during the works bringing everything in and out, so was nice to get it back to 100% again

They should have had an add on uPVC profile when they realised they were short, unfortunately that would now mean a deinstall and reinstall. As Nick says though it can be sorted with correct foam and PVC trims

I originally had a bosch PBH2000 which lasted me for many years, until it started spewing oil everywhere, was going to replace the oil but the main seal had a bit snap off, so decided to get a new one. On paper the new one (HiKoKi) is almost double the power of the old one, but in reality i still think the old bosch one was far more powerful, so just goes to show the specs don't always tell the full story.

Good luck with the purchase, hope it all goes smoothly. you’ll thank yourself for living a stones throw away from your parents, it certainly saves on a lot of stress and time when looking after the oldies, but on the flip side selling their property isn’t quite so nice which I’m in the middle of now with my dads bungalow, still think on balance it’s more a good thing

You're best option is probably to have a small CU which is fed by the 10mm old shower cable, as you'll only need 16A MCB for the battery, and the appropriate cable, gives the option of running other loads on separate circuits from this additional CU

Wouldn’t trade my FiT for anything. you’d never find another 20 year (or whatever you’ve left) contract, only takes them to pull it and you’ve lost everything. looking at their product, which I’ve never heard of, it seems this is a free add on to FiT so that would all stay the same, for maybe £10-20 extra per year, money for nothing perhaps definitely warrants further research

Brass and mild steel for sure, recently taken an old heating pump out made of mild steel, and the brass had eaten away at it over the years, brass was in good nick after a clean.

It’s been flawless since the day it went in, still amazes me when I go outside and they’ve been burning stuff on the farms nearby, inside you would never know. No noticeable noise increase, my unit is fairly small though since it’s only serving around 72m2 and the cleanbox is rated for a much higher throughput. it did take 3 attempts at getting a unit which was completely intact with all the rivets where they should be, hopefully that will have just been bad luck

For us maybe, but for businesses a shock outcome would be anything other than labour and conservative, they can mostly guess the policies of the two major parties

Yeah definitely election anxiety, keeping money in the pot in case some shock outcome had come true, I too have seen it in the education sector, being an IT engineer is usually a very busy time over august holidays, but not so for us this year

The T&G PIR boards are designed as full fill with approx a 5mm gap, I used xtratherm ones on my latest build, now unilin but these ones are the same. have a look at their install guides, there will be buildup examples, but I know it’s full fill as it was one I’d considered using myself

As the title really, got some replacement door slabs, one of which has glazing in it, and noticed that the sticker stating this side to face the outside (which is the patterned glass in autumn leaf) is facing inside, as is the same glazing on two other external doors I’ve got. any reason why it’s been installed back to front? Surely 3 separate slabs can’t all be wrong? had a window a while back which I’ve recently taken out and this was also autumn leaf, but had the pattern to the outside with smooth surface to inside which I’m 99.9% sure is right as the flat surface is where the low e coating is. anyone know if there’s a valid reason for this on the door?

You’ll like need to lose the sunny home manager to do what you want to do. I have a sunny boy sb4000 as my solar inverter, and Solis ac connected inverter for the battery, the Solis manages what goes in and out and when it happens, you wouldn’t need the home manager. hope it helps, see my blog posts on my system maybe they will help too

Minimum 10C difference between in and out apparently, for the best images

Current best ones for phones are Topdon TC01/02 and Infiray P2 Pro, both of which use the same hardware, but the Topdon has a battery built in also. I'm planning on getting an Infiray P2 Pro soon to get to the finer details of the thermal improvement journey