MikeGrahamT21

Thought this was worth sharing, as after many years of thinking you have to get in touch with Tado in order to change the boiler flow temperature when you are using an OpenTherm style connection (BUS, eBUS etc), it turns out the options are available to us, but only using the Tado for Installers App, or the web settings which are quite well hidden away. After much trawling on the web yesterday, I only came across one mention of this Tado for Installers App, though i had seen it in the app store, i just presumed that all it did was supply instructions for wiring boilers for installers, which it does, but also has a few more tricks up its sleeve. In order to connect to the OpenTherm connection on your boiler (and there are many different versions, but all are 2 wire digital, so are connected in the same way), you either need an older Extension Unit (V3), these start with a serial number of BU, or the newer starter kit, but currently only the EU version has the digital connections. There is a mention of a new version being released in the UK which will have these connections, but for now you will need one of the mentioned units. Once connected up to the boiler, i had previously assumed that no further config was required, and Tado were the only ones who could change flow temp settings...wrong! Either open the Tado for installers app, or browse to https://model-selector.tado.com/ Enter the serial number of your Internet Bridge, and the Auth code which is printed on the side of it (this assumes the system is setup and linked to your tado account). You will need these details for both the app and the web portal, so if they aren't easily accessible, write them down. Serial number of the IB is in the main app also. Once accepted, it will show the following: Mine is obviously already setup, but if these details are wrong, click Edit Boiler Details, which will take you through a manufacturer and model search. Once the correct boiler is selected, it will show you the recommended digital config, and also the wiring instructions for the specific boiler. Once all the details are correct you can check the status of setup, and it will show something like the following: If data can be read from the boiler, then the digital connection is working. If not, we can change the communication protocol to match the boiler, but this can only be done via the app for installers. From here press on configuration Select the correct bus type, The Dxx are the digital connection types supported by Tado. If you are unsure which protocol, contact the boiler manufacturer, or consult the install guide. It will show a confirmation screen like the following before you submit At this point I disabled the activate hot water control, so my boiler isn't a system boiler, but like a lot of modern boilers, has a comfort option whereby it has a small tank of water which it can preheat. I don't use this feature, hence turning this off at this point. Once this setting goes through, please check the boiler settings to ensure that comfort mode is turned off, and once set it will stay that way, and hot water control can be controlled via the boiler control panel directly. Back on the web interface, if you wish to change your boilers flow temp (since using OpenTherm/Digital overrides any local settings), simply press on the following button, set the temperature and confirm, and it'll update on the boiler after a few seconds Final feature i discovered was the ability to run firmware updates of the various Tado devices, these are of course automatically done, but if any issues have occurred you may need to force manually, this is done via the app, by pressing on the following button I'm pretty sure this will be of use to lots of people, and will save a lot of hair pulling!! Moderators - Would you be so kind to pin this post either in this forum, or move to whichever seems more suitable

Try a flow temp of 55C and see if that improves things? 65C is pretty high, but all depends what the return temp is, for condensing to occur.

Thanks for the info. I don't have the ability to get any cycling data from this boiler, have sent a query to the manufacturer to see if they know the perfect setting.

I know this is a bit off topic, but it’s something I’ve been wondering about for a while, is there a point whereby the flow temperature being lowered causes less efficiency, rather than more? Basically is there a sweet spot for gas boilers or is lower flow temp always better? I’m down at 45C flow this year which is heating the bungalow without issue, but is it the best for efficient use of the gas?

Yeah can't see anything in manual for yours. Mine probably has it as its a boiler which can take LPG as well as Nat Gas, and the changes are relevant to fuel type, but there is a range you can set for each, initially mine was set incorrectly and made it take longer to reach the target CH flow temp.

How is the heatmiser connected? OpenTherm or just standard On/Off? I found that my boiler (ATAG) had a setting for the Tmax of CH, based upon differing gradients on a chart, and maybe more importantly for your issue, the Gradient Speed for CH, which tells the boiler how many degrees it can rise in a given time. Clearly a different boiler to mine, but one would assume they have similar settings, and this was done off of the boiler front panel itself.

yeah I found this too, very annoying. Everbuild Stixall is a good swap out and is bang on! That’s my recommendation, it’s a hybrid adhesive/sealant and is overpaintable should you need to

That was good old wikipedia, but theres plenty more to go at. Energy Education Canada? An ideal material for thermal mass will have: high heat capacity high material density Heat capacity of a substance is the amount of heat energy required to change the temperature of an object by a given amount. The SI unit for heat capacity is Joule per Kelvin (J/K). The total amount of energy stored by a thermal mass system is proportional to the size of the system or material, therefore specific heat capacity (J/m2K), heat capacity per unit mass, and volumetric heat capacity (J/m3K), heat capacity per unit of volume, are common metrics used to determine a good thermal mass material. the things i've read over the years, people used the term thermal mass, to mean a storage heater effect, the ability the hold hot or cold and then release it back slowly over time, so i would say your version, and this version alike, are all correct and part of the bigger picture. Inertia is talking about the speed at which the transfer happens, and thermal mass (heat capacity) is how much energy a material can hold, you need them both together to understand how it will affect the environment. One which sticks in mind is from my youth, and comparing aluminium and copper heatsinks on CPU's.

🤣 enjoy!

This seems to show an inefficiency, much in the same way mine does, unless you are actually consuming power at that time? This is what mine shows during charge, with an evident "load" during the charge, this isn't a load, its just in fact the inefficiency. I'm in talks with Solis regarding this at the moment, as to me it seems to be too much, and they advised me to speak to Pylontech, i'm waiting for their response

it’s based upon the voltage, to achieve 3kW I think from memory you need 52V and higher. one thing which isn’t clear with battery storage is the inefficiency of converting from AC to DC and vice versa, I need to do an update on my blog about it at some point. Say, like I do, charge in the small hours at cheap rate, putting 5kWh into the battery would likely give me around 4.6kWh of available energy, and then by the time that’s made it back out to device’s probably be down to around 4.3 (from memory input efficiency is lower than output), so you are losing energy right from the off. you only have to put your hand on an inverter after an hour of exporting at 3kW, they get rather hot, and the main chip in mine will operate up to 105C, which is classed as normal. will try and find time to post a blog update this week

The 15kWh version is only 48V, so you’d only get around 1.8kW output from it maximum. Only VAT free with installation also

Have you considered a smart lock? I don’t know if it would work for sure but may be worth looking into, indoor lock with some kind of control panel/keypad outside, change the code for each guest?

It does look like asbestos cement board (can see the hairy fibres next to the hole), but only one way of knowing and thats to get it tested. From memory (and i'm sure someone will confirm), this type of asbestos is one of the few which the body is able to expel if it got in, its not a hugely dangerous version like the insulation asbestos.

Light bulb removal tool? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166489861049?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=sjounk96tlg&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=SHn2lQD2QEu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

What age is the property? Are you 100% sure it’s cement asbestos? Would have been a notable difference from cutting plasterboard, much harder and brittle. Photos?

@crofter they’re m3 so assuming normal ceiling height divide by 2.4 for m2. if ceiling height is right your around 11kWh/m2 for this month.

Certainly a good reduction in kWh comparing the two years, the weather will have helped this December too, had some very mild days. How many m2 are you heating?

Smallest tilting fillet (PVC) will do the trick nice and tidy

Wow no wonder it wasn’t working, I’d expect that to fill up again some more going on the amount there. likely will need a proper flush asap

At this time of year they’ll always have some water in them, that’s not a problem. check the level on your unit, and the manual to see how it should be installed, and check all 3 dimensions. that heat recovery core is the same as mine and it drains just fine in my unit, it has a notch in one corner to drain out, so ensure you have this in the right location too. I wouldn’t go drilling holes in this, asking for trouble!!

Yes I’d say you are dealing with just that. How about a converter? https://thepvcshop.com/products/metric-x-imperial-adaptor?variant=32666578714669 that place sell metric pipe at 50mm OD too if that’s what your after, and presumably the fittings to match. https://www.hydrospares.co.uk/plumbing/pipe/all-pipe/50mm-rigid-pvc-pipe-grey.htm another place too

I believe it’s name is visco-elastic polyurethane foam

EuroCell direct

Spent a lot of time testing different fixings in aircrete and these came out on top https://www.ukbuildsupplies.com/85mm-insofast-fixings-for-drywall-and-insulated-plasterboard-pack-of-20 drill a hole in your ply but not the block and hammer it home. I drove one of these 50mm into an aircrete block, stood on the block and tried to pull it out as hard as I could and it never shifted