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Barney12

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Everything posted by Barney12

  1. Barney12
    Simple: resistance is futile.
  2. Barney12
    I have a petrol Evo. Is it rubbish? Well it depends on what you are comparing it against: Is it as good as a hired heavy duty plate vibrator? No. Not even close. Is it capable of being lifted by one man? Yes. Is it much, much more efficient than hand wacking? Yes and more yes. Would I use it to prep a very large area? No. Is it good enough for shed bases, paths etc? Yes. Mine lives in the shed shed with a variety of other "stuff" and I find it useful. If buying again gain I think I'd look out for a second hand Belle unit. As @ProDave said it will likely get its money back again when you come to sell it.
  3. Barney12
    Thank you Just use acetone or even cellulose thinners. It will do the same job.
  4. Barney12
    Yes, 11mm. They were also pre-coated with a fibreglass mat and resin even before making it to the roof. It then had two lots of 450g matting and resin. Frankly the ply could rot away and the gutter won't go too far! It's not super smooth. The picture is doing it more justice than deserved. But, for reasons that can only be described as insanity I did power sand the base coat with 40g before top coating. Lots of stuff I've read online says you can add top coat within 24h of the base coat without sanding and washing with acetone. But personally I wouldn't at this time of year where drying times are aceleralted. A quick power sand and wash doesn't take long really. Well. Interesting point. They did have a 5 degree taper but tbh by the time the glass was wrapped from the roof into the gutter they got lost. But, as above the GRP is pretty darn strong. I can't see ice breaking it. The down pipes will be sandwiched by the heavily insulated dormer wall and 20mm of timber. It would need to be pretty cold to damage them. But I guess we'll have to wait and see!
  5. Barney12
    They've had the squeeze test. All joint faces were abraided with 60g and washed with acetone. I don't do shiny, I'm far too dull and abrasive for that
  6. Barney12
    All the joints are solvent welded. The top joint will be bonded to the grp tonge using the stuff @Nickfromwales recommended.
  7. Barney12
    A bit of a work in progress but you get the idea. If you're wondering why the battens are on the p*ss it was my young Nephew following my instructions to follow precisely the black slats/tapes that MBC tack on to show you where the timbers are
  8. Barney12
    I made all the formers and upstands by hand from machined timber. The GRP roof materials are Metrodeck from CFS Fibreglass. Im told it will last 50 years, which is handy as I won't live anything like that long
  9. Barney12
    So here's the South roof. The result of 3 days work by me and two friends. If you combined the knowledge of all three of us then I reckon you'd be half way to a pro roofer Actually one of the guys has done a lot of roofing but he's a bit agricultural, took me ages to convince him to use slate and half, he said it was fussy crap Note that we decided to scrap the sticky flashing stuff supplied with the GSE solar trays and instead went for lead. I think it was the right decision in our exposed position. I really don't like the way the flashing trays 'kick' the slates at the sides and top but if you install them to spec then there is nothing you can do about it. But I'm probably being fussy! If you're very observant you'll notice the colour difference on the slates below the solar PV. That's because even with two coats of patina oil as soon as it rained it chucked white residue all over the slates so I decided to clean it off. How did we do?
  10. Barney12
    Finished!
  11. Barney12
    As @lizzie said you can get the channels with the opaque covers but I'm not sure you'll want to take out your led's re-size the channel and refit. How about just getting some 2 or 3mm opaque Perspex and bond it on or into the gap? This seller seems to indicate he'll do custom sizes: Opal Opaque Acrylic Perspex Sheet Plastic LED Lighting Sign Diffuser Material
  12. Barney12
    +1 on the tambor unit. Of course it needs to be one of the those funky electric ones!
  13. Barney12
    We have considerable issues with our MBC slab. It's FAR from level and most certainly isnt "ready for tiling" and will need a lot of remedial work. I would suggest you talk to them as in my experience they are receptive to issues. In my view the reputation MBC had on this forum has been tarnished by an increased use of subcontract labour. BUT, I still rate them as a supplier as they are incredibly responsive and have a desire to put things right.
  14. Barney12
    In short: no. Even solvent based paints atomise at a level which means the solvent is dispersed into the atmosphere very quickly. But saying that there are extremes to everything and if you chuck enough over-spray in a confined space etc etc etc. PPE is the bigger issue.
  15. Barney12
    Hendricks Gin Feavertree Mediterranean Tonic Cucumber (Peelings/slithers only, no sllices or wedges!) Ice Utter heaven!
  16. Barney12
    Out of interest. How will you join your flexible duct lengths? Or are you going to bond each one in at the end?
  17. Barney12
    If it's destined for the skip anyway then hit it harder! What have you got to loose EDIT: Unless it's an excuse to buy a new shiny one. In which case put it in the skip quickly and look sad and mournful in front of the wife whilst explaining it could be a h&s risk if the shaft and blade flew off
  18. Barney12
    It will never happen. He wont allow it to be bought and will first need to design it in CAD then make it (one day). In fairness though @Onoff is very familiar with WIP (Work In Progress).
  19. Barney12
    It looks to me as though the boards have shrunk at the edges or the render has pulled into the joints as its dried (and contracted). A bit like pulling a balloon tight over an uneven surface. You often see this type of result in an area that has been painted over and filled area. Its caused by the filler shrinking back over time and also the paint pulling into a differing substrate. Sorry, I have no idea if that's helpful as I know nothing about render systems.
  20. Barney12
    I would create a transition with stone/gravel. 4-6" would be enough which means you could go for something expensive. If you take the grass to the level of the decking it will only be a matter of time before you damage the decking with the strimmer or mower.
  21. Barney12
    Stop teasing!
  22. Barney12
    Even a premium quality slate should cost you little more than £1.20 for 500x250
  23. Barney12
    I have to say it's bloody lovely! Go on, how much? We all want to know
  24. Barney12
    Grinder? Sorry, I shouldn't joke I know only too well how hugely frustrating these things are.
  25. Barney12
    Its a winder staircase so is picking up each tread?
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