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Barney12

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Everything posted by Barney12

  1. Barney12
    How @Stones has done his bathrooms is exactly (even down to the flush button and siliconed tile access!) how I did our barn conversion. BCO was more than happy to sign it off.
  2. Barney12
    There is absolutely no way I could use anything other than 90's out of the unit itself. I might be able to use 45's after that but I'll have to see. The space is way tighter than I had envisaged. The unit specification would suggest that it's capable of supplying a much bigger house than ours (300m2 vs 210m2) so I assume that's a help?
  3. Barney12
    Bringing this thread back down to my "Luddite" level ............ Does the number of bends in the ducting have any impact on performance? In my revised plan (I think I've revised it 4 times already!) I'm going to have 3 90 degree bends in the air intake and outlet. 2 of them within 500mm of each other. By the way the reason for the design change is that the bloody thing is HUGE and seriously heavy. I've got to rig up a block and tackle to get it upstairs. Its almost too heavy for two people to carry along the flat!
  4. Barney12
    No choice as it has to move away from the corner cladding detail. Can't move the letterbox "up" the slope, that wont work! Its still easily rodded with a flexi wire. I might see if two 45 degrees and a short join works better though.
  5. Barney12
    Yep that was my plan and a grp 'male' connection that will sit down into the 'female' of first bend. I'll then bond it using the Sicoflex you mentioned before. The other joints will be solvent welded.
  6. Barney12
    Resorted to bit of quick Sketchup
  7. Barney12
    Yep that's exactly what I'm intending. I'm going to try and find time for a prototype run tonight
  8. Barney12
    Thanks. Funnily enough that's an idea I had hit apon. The best I could find though was 4x2(110mmx53mm). I can't see the size you mention online?
  9. Barney12
    Now thats a very good idea!
  10. Barney12
    In short no: MBC's detail goes as far as creating a fall for the battens.
  11. Barney12
    GRP. I assume it's just a case of using a valley style former at the rear? Also I assume there needs to be a break in the edging trim towards the rear to allow proper run off to the sides?
  12. Barney12
    What I'm trying to do is two things: Minimise the roof overhang. Not have a visible gutter.
  13. Barney12
    I'm acutely aware that I'm at risk of boring the forum to death over my flat roof dormer detail BUT..... Another question. Are rear sloping flat roofs now considered bad practice? I.e the fall is back towards the roof slates and the water drains onto the slates. We have exactly that design on our flat roof dormers on the garage but something makes me think it's not exactly best practice. Ive Googled the subject to death and can find so little detail! ...I'll get me coat!
  14. Barney12
    Yes, I kinda thought that after I typed it
  15. Barney12
    I could run the drain pipe internally but as this is an "afterthought" I've got no means to connect the internal pipe to the storm drain run as I made no provision in the slab. I could connect it to it to the foul drain but if the BCO spots it I'll be in trouble as I'm fairly certain that's not allowed. Or is that only in the case of mains connected foul? (Mines a treatment plant).
  16. Barney12
    Ive been trying to come up with a hidden gutter design for my dormer. For it to work the outlet pipe would need to sit behind the timber cladding hence needing to try and keep the pipe diameter narrow otherwise the reveals on the windows will be deeper than I ideally want. Closing off the pipe entry in the hidden gutter is not hard with a bit of stainless mesh to prevent debris entering. However i cant convince myself of a satisfactory design.....yet!
  17. Barney12
    Do you reckon this one will shuv down a 32mm pipe? https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/roofdrain-outlet-tpe-40mm.html
  18. Barney12
    Thats what I was looking for but I've not been able to find anything like it online. CFS don't list one.
  19. Barney12
    Thats the bit I'm working on. There wont be only one. My calcs suggest 3 should be sufficient for a 5mx2m flat roof.
  20. Barney12
    Yep rainwater. But not exposed as it will be behind a cladding detail.
  21. Barney12
    Yep. Going down into a PVC downpipe (but a 32mm standard solvent weld pipe, not a gutter downpipe)
  22. Barney12
    Yup! Well a GRP box gutter to be precise (Its still a concept idea at the moment but I'm working it up )
  23. Barney12
    I know there's a few boaty/planey (technical terms!) types on the forum so I had a quick question regarding bonding fibreglass to PVC pipe: As a general rule its supposed to be a "no" as fibreglass doesn't stick that well to plastics but in the past I have got away with it by roughing up the pvc and giving it a good clean with acetone. I've also used 3M 5200 in the past but it takes bloody days to dry properly and is a messy horrible product. I wondered if anyone had used any other methods?
  24. Barney12
    On a standard rendered wall which has already been painted there is (in my opinion) little value in going for one of the specialist paints (silicone, potassium silicate etc) as its mainly going to be bonding to the existing paint on the wall. Just go for a textured variant of external emulsion as it will help hide the areas where paint has peeled and be removed.
  25. Barney12
    I've typed a couple of these before but a few of my favourite local phrases uttered by good old fashioned Devon trades folk are: "That looks like a bag of shit tied ugly" "You cain't learn it boy" "That needs a coat of lookin at" or if it's really bad "that's goin to need two coats of lookin at" "My maid is tight as a ducks arse [long pause] and that's watertight" (Refering to his wife's refusal to allow him to spend money before you start thinking dirty! "Maid" is the Devon term for female.)
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