Barney12

Ah got it! Glad its sorted.

Sorry, you've lost me on the detail you're describing. There is no option other than fixing to the battens. You can set them out from the gable end (or facia face) by a varied distance as long as you don't impede the built in drip profile. What you put "under" the profile could be anything from timber facia to cement board, EML etc.

In my view there is little point in moving to building regs drawings yet for the reason you state. Now's the time to start putting your budget together. TF companies will give you a quote based on your plans. Not one of the 4 I approached charged for quotes, in fact I cant think of a single instance where a charge has been levied on a quote. If they want your business then they will agree to a meeting and factory tour.

I'd go for option 1. Just as quick by the time you've faffed about trimming the foam.

As long as the design is such that it can't put any stress on the fibreglass roof deck (I.e. Absolutely no flex) then that would be fine IMHO. I would be drilling the holes through the fibreglass oversize by at least 3mm to allow for expansion and contraction of the deck. If this was a handrail on a fibreglass boat then you you would use this stuff at the fixings and any joints: http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/portal/3M/en_GB/MarineSolutions/MarineSupplies/ApplicationProcesses/MarineSealersAndAdhesives/ Be warned though, its sticky, hard to work and slow drying. But, once cured its stronger than anything I've ever seen. Makes CT1 look like play dough Careful detailing is key, each one of those holes is a water ingress point which is "less good" on a flat roof.

Call me cynical but surely that's easily overcome by: 1. Supplier/manufacturer charging an agreed price. 2. Him (or his agent/production company) invoicing the supplier/manufacturer for professional services. Actaully i I am cynical most of the time

Any treated timber is fine. I've used 6x1 for shuttering but you can also rip down 18mm OSB sheets which will work out cheaper. If you've got a chop saw then roll your own stakes using 50x50mm treated timber cut to a good deep point.

You'll need to have a limited amount of deflection. Google these scintillating subjects: Two British standards apply; BS6180:2011 "Barriers in and about buildings - Code of practice" which relates to the code of practice for balustrades in buildings and BS6399-1:1996 "Loadings for buildings - Part1: Code of practice for dead and imposed loads" which specifies the information on loadings. For domestic dwellings this translates to: Handrails: For external balconies 0.74 kN/m. This can be compared to having one averagely weighing person 75kg applying the full force of their body on every metre of the balcony. Infill Panels/Rails: 0.5kN/m.

Yep agreed. Utter crap. Those generic wire strippers are as much use as a chocolate fire guard too. Teach yourself to nip and strip with side cutters.

Not easy but not impossible as long as the stones aren't too big. Is it just MOT1? It's the ground conditions below that will slow you down if it's full of large stones/rocks. Just whack a metal bar down first and that will loosen up the stones for your stake. A short length of rebar or a 600mm foundation pin is ideal for the job. Edit: mind your fingers when whacking the pin/bar. Putting your finger between the lump hammer and the pin REALLY hurts. Ask me how I know. Had to go o the local vet and get him to sew the top of my finger back. (Yes, I did mean vet. So much closer and quicker than A&E )

I'm no expert but I used roadform once and I found it heavy and difficult to adjust accurately. The love of timber is its light and reasonably easy to adjust. Screws are your friend so you adjust levels as you go. The one exception is ref ground conditions. If they are really hard (and you can't drive a wooden stake into our ground) then timber becomes more challenging. there's a great write up of the two types here a long with loads of other helpful info on concrete: http://pavingexpert.com/formwk01.htm

I wonder if he's paying for any of these materials?? I very much doubt it.

Seems cheap? Dewalt Jobsite DAB Radio - £87.00 delivered: https://www.amazon.co.uk/DeWalt-DCR020-GB-Compact-Jobsite-Radio/dp/B00KCU756A?

Yes and yes.

I do something similar with Microsofts OneDrive but have never gone to the trouble of getting suppliers to work from it. Instead I just manage the process of ensuring the latest version is stored (including an archive of previous revisions). The benefit for me is the 'access anywhere' from phone, iPad, laptop etc. As importantly all my iphone pictures automatically upload to OneDrive. Taking loads of pictures of various stages of the build is a must for me. Where was that pipe, stud etc. What was the detail of that wiring? Pictures paint a thousand words.

I thought the same. I bet he's been saying "Can we keep it in the living room?"

+1

That's exactly how our gagare roof is cut for the hip. Also if mortar bedded you'll need a hook iron at the ends: https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/galvanized-hip-iron-300-x-100-x-25-x-3mm.html edit: sorry just re-read and noticed you mentioned a dry ridge.

That 6mm one you linked to is exactly what I used.

Or if the slab dimension aren't followed properly 2" inside your studwork

5.8m wide by 2.8m tall. But I believe they make an "XL" version which can go even bigger.

Sorry, but I disagree with the last few comments. You don't need to 'battle' with the insurer. That's just emotive language that isn't required. Just simply set aside an hour to write a well worded letter pointing out the facts covered above. I would also ask the insurer (its always good to ask questions that they have to confirm) to confirm the relavent experience the loss adjuster has with Durisol. The fact of the matter is that the loss adjusters reason for rejecting the claim can be clearly refuted. There is no need for battles, anger, distraction. Just calm well written words. Besides, how many hours do us self builders spend trying to save a few quid on materials and suppliers? Would you spend an hour shaving £1,200 of a materials order? Edit: actually the facts are so simple it's probably more like half an hour!

Admitting you have a problem is the first step to on the road to recovery. and no I don't drink too much!

+1. Jeremy is spot on with his advice.

Actually it's not bloody stopped raining for a couple of weeks. I'm getting bored of it now