TonyT

You can’t win mate so build what you want no point in comparing prices either as some can self build, some can’t do DIY. so listen to your QS. hope hey are on a fixed fee and not a percentage of the build cost.

Seems a bit overkill reading the OP’s original request

Ladies too

A good tip is to read what the manufacturer of the product recommends first of all.

C- keeps it clear of dafties drilling and cooler cause it’s further away from the UFH

Don’t you have to notify that works have commenced on site with 7 days notice? after that if they aren’t coming to site.. that’s their problem. just take lots of photos as evidence.

Is there any identification/ markings on the external sheath of the cable? can you trace back to a point as Nick points out…

What about 1 network cable to upstairs to a switch, and then first floor cabling from this switch?

I have bereco, sash windows, good quality, decent price for pre finished timber sash and case.

Pretty sure you can’t do that, cable is to be independent of the gas pipe not used as ‘containment’ I do agree on the point of entry though👍

you get labels saying this equipment is fed from 2 supplies etc. stick it with the consumer unit with the other labels that are ignored such as testing rcd's etc

It looked like the houses that went on fire were BISF to me, possibly then rendered which is quite common

There has to be a large ish m&e contractor about. Check the gas safe register for the qualifications prior to making contact Explain clearly that you need a certificate and ask the cost. pay contractor get certificate.

Bean counters probably

Don’t shoot the messenger, that’s what they said …..

On the video he said it needed a £350 chip to enable the cooling on the valiant system at the heat geek hq.

Isn’t one of the Leds a Indra red receiver, I’m sure I’ve seen the DNO with a laptop program them…. Via a clip on led transmitter years ago mind…

Just remove the plasterboard if it hasn’t been taped or plastered. if it has get the multi tool out and cut access hatches to add the timber, then re tape/plaster.

Isn’t the zones they show activity space? i.e the space you have to have available. Around the wc/shower etc

It just says it has to be robust. so you could put in a 3x2 at the correct position rather than 18mm plywood(ing) a large area. inspector isn’t going to be pulling at them

drill a hole in the slabs hammer into ground https://www.simplysafetygroup.co.uk/fencing-pins.html?source=googleshopping&category_id=1546&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4vbBsK6A-QIViaztCh3gnQwkEAQYASABEgIODPD_BwE run rope at mid height and high level.

It’s a screw fix code not a wickes

Sorry that’s the screw fix code

ERBAUER STRAIGHT SHANK MASONRY DRILL BIT 14 X 200MM (425HY will fit a 10mm chuck

Too small even a cheap stainless steel sink would be ok if the rest was blinged up