TonyT

Chill force Dundee

No one is signing that off, it’s very very poor standard of work.. Again needs addressing before carrying on with more work that will then make carting our remedial works harder/more expensive

Could be the ceiling flashing, you need to get a few bodies and paint the ceiling in one go, so someone cutting in and someone infilling with a roller.

Agree with the comments above, a poor installer can make anything look like a bag of nails. spend time looking for a decent installer, finding recommendations etc put together a specification so that you know the quotes will all be on the same scope of works.

What type of boiler was giving all the grief?

How many people in the property ? How many bathrooms? any solar PV at the moment or any plans to get some? Forever home?

Get some expert advise apart from us on a random website.

18th edition do require this The spd clips to the din rail like an mcb it should be next to the main switch and will protect the whole installation

Maybe so, but it’s not good design.

Best just stop the build before things progress to far to change before the plumber , electrician, roofer make a mess too and you spend more money that may be ripped out

The washing machine is the electrical equipment on the back wall…. so you don’t have to walk around it…

The electrical equipment is on the back wall….

Stack washing machine/tumble dryer etc and then narrow shelves oh and ditch architect What stage are you at?

I would use quinetic

Remember the armour cable needs to be glanded into a metal box. the single insulated cables of the armour can’t leave the box/cu. Only double insulated such as meter tails can do this

There should be one at the other end of the Swa

Well done mate! If you know he is busy at certain times ask him to come then, if he says can’t say don’t worry a guy at work can help.. give him a little out to make the conversation easier if you want or not!!

The Hager 701 can do 100amps but it’s wider than a mcb so would upset the ways in the CU. The main switch can only take 35mm2 max so doubling up is against the MI. From a cost saving point of view I think a metal enclosure with din rail terminals, Swa glanded into one side and tails coming out via an appropriate gland to a pair of Henley blocks- this then feeding both boards is the easiest way of making the installation compliant. then put rcbo for every circuit

There's also the issue that MCBs tend not to discriminate with MCBs generally it's a bad idea to feed an Consumer Unit from an MCB in another Consumer Unit

You shouldn’t have copper on show at the terminals. Is it worth glanding the Swa into a metal enclosure via some din rail terminals, transition to tails coming out straight into a pair of Henley blocks, then take 2 sets of tails from the Henley blocks to each db assume the Swa at the other end is in a kmf fuse switch or similar as the cutout is more than 3 meters away? that way every main switch only has one set of conductors in it and can be safely torqued to the correct setting

Brand new from Screwfix for under 300, use and sell on

The smart trv may have a list of compatible trv bodies that once the original head was removed the smart trv is fitted to. best to check manufacturers instructions.

All depends propbably worth getting an EICR done/ an inspection to see what the rest of the installation is like first then gives you a starting point. someone changing a db only could issue a certification limiting the work to that so only potential solving half a problem..

Maybe time to get a check of some switches, sockets to make sure they are fitted correctly Have you any certification for this work? poor design and installation work

What a bag of crap.