Roundtuit

I'd just use decorators caulk as its paintable. Not sure taping would have been standard practice when they were installed, and there will be quite a bit of making good if you take the window board out I reckon.

I lined ours with some strips of 6mm ply before boarding to close the gap and get over the fixing brackets. You could double-board, depending on how much you need to make up.

Your proposed kitchen area downlight arrangement is similar to ours, and I'm happy with ours: all bulb fittings, so you can change the colour temperature to suit, and two separate circuits (cool white over the 'business area' and daylight white over the eating area), both dimmable to suit the mood. Also led strips under the island which provide a surprising amount of 'background' light. I know I'm at odds with the prevailing view, but I really don't like yellowy lighting; I think it reminds me of the nicotine-stained 70's.

Not the external thermostat?

I'm going back probably 10 yrs, but I think a vertical sash unit approx 900mm x 1400mm was around £300 at the time. We used https://clearviewsg.co.uk I have no connection, other than using them, but they were great for advice on spec and measuring up etc. I see they have an online price calculator so that might be worth a try.

We used secondary glazing with standard glazing in our bedroom on a listed building facing a busy road. We probably had a 150mm gap, and the difference was amazing; I wished I'd done it 3 years earlier. Sealing any gaps around the frame is key.

F me! You're good! Can you do Liz next pls?

Core temperature above 70C for at least 2 minutes. We all know the problems with undercooked bats...🙂

Looks like an evaporator with a few bent fins. Seen worse tbh, but not much 😆

Expanding foam, trim level and tape over with your tape of choice?

Maybe if it's limestone. Granite should be OK.

As above; go and have a look around your local garden centre or somewhere that sells sheds etc. Get a feel for how they fit together, take a few pics for reference and give it a go!

Have a look on Google earth; there might be some clues about what was or wasn't there historically.

Wow! That's a lot of digging, good effort! Did it need to be that wide? That's a lot of concrete reqd.

It wouldn't affect planning permission, only the legality of actually building what was granted. Complicated territory... to be enforceable, there has to be a beneficiary, ie someone who owns land that would be adversely affected by breaking the covenant. That could theoretically be a neighbour, if the covenant is designed to limit development in the area. I'd speak to a solicitor before getting too far into the process. (If you're in the Wisbech area, there's a solicitor with expert local knowledge in the town 😉)

Well done, and good luck!

We had an issue with the condensate drain getting blocked on our ventaxia unit, and condensate building up inside the casing to the point the fan was catching it and making a noise. To be fair, our noise was more 'watery' than yours. There's not much to break inside; might be worth popping the cover off for a quick look if you're struggling to find someone to do it.

Ours is timber frame with a brick outer skin (to get a traditional look). There's nothing I don't like about it as a system; quick to go up, easy to spec re: insulation levels, and easy to make airtight. If I was doing it again, I think I'd lean towards ICF though, as: a) I'd suggest the average self-builder isn't best placed to capitalise on the speed of construction. You need to have your roofers, brickies and windows lined-up with no timescale f-ups to get any significant benefit I think. b) a brick outer skin is an expensive rain-screen, although I would argue it adds considerably to decrement delay.

As above; you need to establish whether there is a bulb to change, or if its a sealed integrated unit. If it's the latter, there's no option other than change the whole fitting.

It's by no means a fix for your condensation issue (and you really need to get to the root cause), but you could line the reveals with upvc cladding. At least you'd be able to wipe it clean easily and not have to paint...

I cut ours with a bog standard hand saw; you'll soon get your eye in and be able to cut it to a snug fit with minimal foam required (a fraction oversized also fits if you apply a batten and a lump hammer😉). The dust is a b@$tard; wear a mask keep hoovering up!

As @Nickfromwales says, it may not be optimal on paper, but realistically, I struggle to believe it makes a significant difference in most cases. We have the exhaust on the south pitch and intake on the north pitch, mainly to fit around solar panels without using loads of ducting and compromising internal roof space. I balanced the system without a problem, but accept that I have no idea which way the wind, if any, was blowing at the time. The system has continued to do it's job with no noticeable difference in performance over the last few years, regardless of weather, which is fine for me!

Depends on the look you're after. I used oak sleepers.

It depends on the raft design and how close to your neighbours you're building, but yes, it sounds reasonable. We used a raft rather than piles for our garage foundation which avoided any Party Wall complications.

We've done exactly that with no noticeable issues. Exhaust is on the south side of the roof, and intake on the north pitch.