Roundtuit

You wish...

You may struggle to get 70mm pir into 70mm studs as there is probably a tolerance of +/- up to 5mm on the pir boards. 70mm studs seem pretty light tbh; I think I'd be considering filling the studs with mineral wool insulation, and fixing the 70mm pir on the inside of that with battens. Someone clever will hopefully be along shortly to advise on vcl and condensation risk.

Maybe put a small fan at ground level to get some more air flow, and maybe use one of those absorbant things that are used for shipping containers to take up the excess.

Is that correct? 300 sq m is pretty big for a 3 bed house.

Just a thought... if a pipe bursts due to freezing, it doesn't usually leak until it thaws, and if the pipe is encased in screed, the I'd have thought any bursts would be around the manifold perhaps.

Maybe, but Artex is a trade name, and wasn't the only product available.

Yes, similar to yours; a really fine dust that seems to stick by static. It comes off easily enough with the brush attachment on the hoover. Filters are changed every 6 months.

'Textured coatings' (artex etc) may have contained asbestos up until 1984, so Google says. Best to know what you're working with I reckon.

I think maybe Tricky just wanted comments restricted to the heating system proposal, rather than the holistic approach, and is probably too far down the line to be able easily change some of the fundamentals...

Heat will escape; insulation just slows down the rate. Looks like you need more ventilation in the loft space to get rid of the condensation. Perhaps check the eaves are not blocked with insulation.

Looks like a good set up. I did a similar thing, but a bit of a bodge job, in our last place. I set the alarm to come on if pump 1 failed, but before water reached pump 2 level. I also discovered there was a problem with the pumps getting air-locked and failing to pump after the sump had run dry over summer. I ended up drilling some holes in the pipework to let water into the pumps from the top. I think I also had to put some one way valves in to stop water being returned through whichever pump wasn't running.

Honestly, if you're planning on living in this for an extended period of time, I'd have a re-think before you go much further. Has this been professionally designed?

Impossible to say really. It depends on where the leaks are. Unless you're stripping it back to basics, all you can realistically do is plug the holes in the inner skin (caulking round skirting etc); the cold air may still be circulating behind the plasterboard and negating the insulation. I'm guessing you have trickle vents in the windows? Perhaps not much benefit in sealing up too much unless you can control ventilation losses.

I splashed out £80 on a used Dewalt compound mitre saw; if I'd spent 4 times that much it would still have been worth every penny. (Makita would have been first choice but hey, when you shop on Gumtree you take what you can get!)

A bit late to this, but, sticks like sh*t and 40mm panel pins into the door lining for me, just to pull it in tight. Punch the heads in and smear with filler before painting. Skirting (also mdf) went on with adhesive and 50mm ovals into studs. Scribing isn't worth the effort IMO, unless your walls are well out of true. Just 45 degree mitre on each side then mitre bond before fitting and caulk any gaps.

How much room have you got to play with? Can you thread a bit of fishing line or similar around the back of the latch then pull both ends towards you to release it?

Just resurrecting this one... I've got some close-board fencing to do, and am considering Durapost posts with timber rails, featheredge etc. The posts are a bit pricey, but there are probably some savings in postcrete and installation time. Anyone got any experience pls?

We need a bit more context pls. Is it built into an alcove against a chimney breast? Outside wall?

Yes, and if you're lucky, empty. Please tell me you're going to take it out; you'll be amazed at how much bigger the room looks when you do.

Years ago, when I wanted PP for a replacement garage prior to selling a house, I got drawings done through an online service based on my sketches and dimensions. It was cheap and cheerful, but got through planning OK.

Yep, knocked one of those out in our first house. Then chased out the wall and rewired the plug socket to get it down to a sensible height...

Any chance it could be mud? I think masonry bees sometimes plug-up nest holes.

I sent a covering note with my vat reclaim explaining the different addresses on the invoices (old home, followed by rented place, followed by plot address). It wasn't queried, so I assume it's not an unusual occurrence. Re: best terms. I know I got some good discounts from my BM, because I was able to check them against what a small developer was paying, but I was still able to get better prices shopping around on many occasions. Don't assume that best terms means best market price 😉

I may be wrong, but I don't think that's going to help the smell issue is it? Might actually make it worse if you're ducting smell in to more rooms?

Probably best to get an accurate idea of the height difference in the first instance. I think I'd be allowing 10-12mm minimum for tiles and adhesive, plus whatever insulation board you use. As above; the way electricity prices are heading, I'd be looking for more bang for my buck.