Roundtuit

I did ours with osmo polyx oil after hanging. It's a bit of a faff working around hinges, but you can do both sides in one hit and don't have find space/time to lay them out/turn over for each coat. Very happy with the finish (rub down with a fine sanding sponge before and after coats), and no signs of any problem due to not treating the bits under the hinges or under the bottom of the door. I'd do the same again definitely.

Induction hob definitely. Gas bbq for emergency and steak.

I'd be more concerned about the drain across the drive tbh. Has it sunk, or was it fitted like that? The edging top left of the photo doesn't look entirely professional either. Perhaps get an independent 3rd party to give it a look over before discussing further with them.

Cheers. I'll diy it if possible. There's nothing to get a spanner on to, so I'm guessing grips is the way forward.

I've just returned home from a few days away and found the ashp has stopped due to a low pressure fault. I've re-pressuried so it's running, but the cause appears to be a steady drip from the air purger (centre in the picture). Any advice on cause or fix pls? Easy to replace? (Hitachi Yutaki split system).

What's at the other side of the dead-end? Sometimes these small areas are designated as 'public' to prevent further development linking up with existing roads.

Deffo a rat? Any chance it could be a squirrel (which are pretty much rats, but with better PR)? They're not unusual in lofts, but might get a bit lairy if they get nipped in a snap trap. Personally, I'd set a live catch trap baited with peanut butter and see what happens. Maybe a photo of the droppings would help confirm?

Thanks! I didn't use the design tool, they did the design from dimensions. I think it was what they call the ClearCut design. I had several phone conversations with them; definitely worth giving them a call to explore options but I don't think a half-landing will be a problem.

I've got a bit you can have foc if its what you're looking for. Drop me a pm and we can go from there!

As above, I think I'd ask them to swap it for a fused flex outlet with no switch.

Another vote for hand saw. With a bit of practice, cutting at a shallow angle, you can get a consistently tight fit, and cutting square wasn't difficult.

Maybe remove smoke alarm, seal hole around cable with suitable sealant, replace smoke alarm ?

Yes, pretty much. I put letter-box size vents in on either side of the boxing, top and bottom (so 4 in total).

I did, but not an 'official' one.... where the flue exited the airtight layer into the loft space (first floor ceiling), I replaced the ventilated thing with cement board and sealed it with fireproof mastic. I can't see as that's significantly different from, say, a twin wall flue exiting a vaulted ceiling tbh. Between floors is boxed in and ventilated top and bottom.

Looks like an nursery school project, but probably nothing that couldn't come down and be done properly. Looks like a hole in the roof too...is this a renovation job?

Can't recall off the top of my head. As a guess, they must have been maybe 2m wide, 6m long and 1m deep. I hired a JCB and driver locally for two half days (half day to dig, then back a few days later to fill in after everyone had seen enough soil).

Well done! I suspect that a lot of people have paid sdlt where none was due, due to ill-informed solicitors and conveyancers who are used to doing straight forward residential work.

So the planners consulted Herts Archeaology, received no response, and added a condition anyway? Is there anything from the Archeaology guys on the planning portal for your application that would add clarity perhaps? I spoke to our Archeaology department directly (Cambs) to establish exactly what the requirement was, and to understand what would happen if they found anything 'interesting'. We had to dig 2 trenches (under house and garage footprints), but no dramas.

Whoever the planners consult (County archaeology department?) will spec the planning condition, so you really need that first. I saved a lot of money finding an independent archaeologist rather than one of the larger consultancies that seem to dominate in our area.

..or tell the builder that's what your plan is, then try and negotiate a refund as an alternative

I loose track of time, but it's probably been treated for about 3 years. Most of the silvering happened in the first 12 months I reckon.

Yes, a nice even grey. The only downside is some black mould spots that I'm hoping will fade in time, but you don't really notice them unless you're up close.

It's nothing like creosote in terms of colour, but SiOO:X should give you 10 yrs + without re-treating. Perhaps not everyone's cup of tea, but I've used it on the house cladding, and I'll be using it on the garage when I get round to building it. Planed timber might need a rough sanding first though.

Yes, definitely set up for a couple of gas bottles. Maybe a gas hob, past or present.

https://www.a1airtesting.co.uk/ They do appear to cover your area, so probably worth a try. To be fair, it was a new build with no need for thermal imaging, but as above, airtightness and cold-bridging are a bit different.