Roundtuit

I splashed out £80 on a used Dewalt compound mitre saw; if I'd spent 4 times that much it would still have been worth every penny. (Makita would have been first choice but hey, when you shop on Gumtree you take what you can get!)

A bit late to this, but, sticks like sh*t and 40mm panel pins into the door lining for me, just to pull it in tight. Punch the heads in and smear with filler before painting. Skirting (also mdf) went on with adhesive and 50mm ovals into studs. Scribing isn't worth the effort IMO, unless your walls are well out of true. Just 45 degree mitre on each side then mitre bond before fitting and caulk any gaps.

How much room have you got to play with? Can you thread a bit of fishing line or similar around the back of the latch then pull both ends towards you to release it?

Just resurrecting this one... I've got some close-board fencing to do, and am considering Durapost posts with timber rails, featheredge etc. The posts are a bit pricey, but there are probably some savings in postcrete and installation time. Anyone got any experience pls?

We need a bit more context pls. Is it built into an alcove against a chimney breast? Outside wall?

Yes, and if you're lucky, empty. Please tell me you're going to take it out; you'll be amazed at how much bigger the room looks when you do.

Years ago, when I wanted PP for a replacement garage prior to selling a house, I got drawings done through an online service based on my sketches and dimensions. It was cheap and cheerful, but got through planning OK.

Yep, knocked one of those out in our first house. Then chased out the wall and rewired the plug socket to get it down to a sensible height...

Any chance it could be mud? I think masonry bees sometimes plug-up nest holes.

I sent a covering note with my vat reclaim explaining the different addresses on the invoices (old home, followed by rented place, followed by plot address). It wasn't queried, so I assume it's not an unusual occurrence. Re: best terms. I know I got some good discounts from my BM, because I was able to check them against what a small developer was paying, but I was still able to get better prices shopping around on many occasions. Don't assume that best terms means best market price 😉

I may be wrong, but I don't think that's going to help the smell issue is it? Might actually make it worse if you're ducting smell in to more rooms?

Probably best to get an accurate idea of the height difference in the first instance. I think I'd be allowing 10-12mm minimum for tiles and adhesive, plus whatever insulation board you use. As above; the way electricity prices are heading, I'd be looking for more bang for my buck.

Hmm... installed by HETAS installer, and signed off by BC. I think it's OK.

Straight on to tiles here, as per thr photo. BC never queried it.

I hope so, internally it's very similar to ours: brick outer skin, 50mm gap, beather membrane, 11mm osb, 140mm frame with 120mm pir, then VCL (airtight membrane), with 40mm of pir over the top, 25mm mm battens then plasterboard.

As above, how cool is the incoming air? If your mvhr is 80% efficient, at your current internal temperature (20c), incoming air should be around 16C.

I guess that depends on how you feel about the suggestion that you may be on the wrong side of planning law, and how comfortable you are with it being unresolved. Ignoring it wouldn't really work for me, but I can understand why some might take that route.

It's worth checking the height of your raised decking is OK too. I think 300mm is the PD limit. If you're over that, you might want to think about building your ground level up a bit before you send a photo 😉

To me, it sounds like you're within permitted development. I assume no one from the planning department has been out to have a look? If not, I'd politely push back until they come out and prove otherwise.

I wouldn't worry too much about the joints tbh, but I'd put a slip membrane over the top of the insulation before the concrete. Isn't there some debate about a potential reaction between the foil and concrete if they're in direct contact?

My guess would be that maybe some historical localised water ingress or leak has caused an area of rot and water staining. The 'rot' looks long gone and if everything is dry now, as above, patch it up and don't worry!

Looks like the kitchen needs twice the extract that the small bathroom needs, but I'm sure you'll be doing the maths!

I can only speak with reference to my install, but one size of ducting is used throughout. Most rooms have a single run of duct from the manifold to either a supply or extract vent but in bigger (or wetter) rooms with a greater feed or extract requirement, two runs of ducting are used to get enough air flow. Adjustable vents are then used to throttle-back the flow at each outlet to balance the system.

I'm no plumber, but I think your rising main is best coming up into the plant room, then run everything else internally in the ceiling, dropping down the wall to sinks etc as required.

Siberian larch treated with Sioo-X sprayed and brushed in. There's a couple of details I'd do differently if doing it again. I've used lead flashing over the top of the windows, lapped up onder the cladding; a proper aluminium pressing would be better, like the ones you linked to. I did the cladding a couple of years before I got round to fitting cills, so fitted the cills between the cladding reveals. I should really have taken the reveals off and fitted over the top of the cill.