Oz07

Maybe more a grano mix would be suitable. Bit of dusty granite chippings and sand with cement. Same as a drainage benching mix. Then some additives to help finish sbr or waterproofs.

Have always just put onto screed on any job I've fitted some on. Obviously I've not specced these just fitting what's infront of me. On mine I usually sit ontop of agilia as min 75mm thick. Chucked a sheet of mesh in last place as had a structural newel taking small floor load. Architect wanted newel taking through screed insulation down to floor beams. Sounded a nightmare to me and recipe for trouble maybe rotten newel?

2 issues here. Did they eventually finish the job of insulating or did you or your plasterers? Did the waste really fill a skip. I'd be interested what their quote/contract says about waste/cleaning up. Most building sites supply the skips with subbies having to put their crap in them themselves. I think your time for cleaning up would be fair, not sure about the cost of skip

Where in country that sounds dear.

I always land short ends on joints. Lmow another chippy who was made to go and not underneath with some h section shape nogs by labc warranty. Learn from others mistakes. Probably nessecary and probably be fine but not hard to do

Wouldn't waste too much time working it out. Rough and ready will do. End of the day it costs what it costs and you always need more than you think. Eh @Red Kite?!

Why can't you share publicly. All sound interesting and obviously you're not here touting for business. The pre cut supplier sounds interesting. Why change their specified insulation?

At a similar point @Russell griffiths was going to attempt myself but I don't know how much spare wire sparks will want and what kind of run/route would be preferable. Got him coming out next week to put the cable in for me should only take an hour with scaffold up. My soffit is fixed to underside of 50mm battens, I presume he will run cable ontop of these and leave un clipped. Do you have something like this? Think cables are supposed to be 50mm up off ceilings or things like that @ProDave?

Surely your posi supplier will give you a fixing detail. At end of the day they're the floor designer no doubt there is some excellent knowledge here but you need to be using an indemnified professional

I think structurally you'd be better off flush at the bottom gap at the top. If you look at a joist hanger its not normally as crucial at the top. Hasn't this detail been specced by anyone though? Floor supplier? Steel design guy? Sometimes the posi's can have extended top chord which could work with your steel sizes?

Good advice from @Sensus in this case despite the saltiness! @Russell griffiths think anyone would of spent 15k to get planning on your plot with the setting! What did you buy it as amenity land?

If you can have tipped on a hard surface is much easier. An old concrete driveway or pad is much easier to shovel off than ground

Everywhere I've read says inlet and exhaust on same elevation

Celcons are supposed to be good at freeze thaw but anyway I'd be worried about op building inspector. Do you think it's like their equivalent of the "long weight" or left handed screwdriver. They get back to the office and say get on this tony guess what I've got this geezer doing on one of my rounds

have just found this thread with good advice for future reference How are all you fellow roof venters getting a downwards fall to a roof vent, taking duct up above and back down or just omitting the fall?

cheers @Temp hadn't seen your reply. I'm not thinking playing safe and MVHR inlet and outlet on opposite side of house to boiler flue. I've emailed a couple of firms who have quoted me systems but not really got an answer to - Is there an ideal length of these intake and exhaust pipes to the unit? I reckon mine will be approaching 4 metres long going through a cold loft and connecting to an air vent tile. I'm tiling the roof next week so could do with knowing if this is a good idea or a problem in having these ducts so long. Cheers

I still can't believe what I'm reading. Do you see blocks covered up with insulation in a builders merchant

Are they 7n or upto the correct density for below dpc? Sounds like it at 19kg. I've never heard of this problem is he off his head?!

Try it I'm sure you'll be ok

Looks good. You're lucky to get a good trowel makes a difference. What kind of rates are you paying? Notice your subframes have heads what lintels you using?

No you miss my point. Doc h implies that 1:40 is minimum gradient unless you have at least one w/c on the run then 1:80 permissible. Always puzzled me

@PeterW I agree with your sentiments but have always wondered how come of laying drains at 1:80 they say a toilet should be connected as a minimum with 110mm pipe? That's the way I've read it but as you say, surely kitchen and utility runs are not as likely to block?

Wasn't it @Jeremy Harris who did some kind of test on the absorbancy and uptake of moisture of building products. For instance if the insulation was directly ontop of damp ground with dpm over top and staples through would moisture actually come up through the dpm. While I wouldn't advise it it's probably unlikely. When I asked about it previously someone else said the staples are tight around the dpm they puncture so ok

I had a bpc price but then had this one recently much cheaper. Is it too good to be true? Yes I like to live dangerously with low battery

Disc cutter would cut through