Oz07

I know what you're saying but how else do you keep everything on bends? That one basin could go into back of w/c drain connector, your w/c could also potentially boss into that Stacy removing 2 connections

Basins could go off 90deg branch into upper third of drain if easier.

If you bring it up on a rest bend with a y branch horizontally. You can put the farthest one on a 45 bend at bottom of rest bend and keep the drain in a straight line then

I've had pipe that is half the weight of other pipe and sent it back so be careful. Think you're ok with any main manufacturer but be careful of independents selling super cheap gear compare it to decent stuff

Finished pics today @LA3222

At least you got it done congrats

Exposed surfaces does this mean wires below a plasterboard ceiling as you often see in communal areas of flats from retrofit wiring bits and pieces etc?

I wouldn't imagine this applies in domestic ceiling void environments. Check with an up to date sparky by all means but it wouldn't be keeping me awake at night.

Mines still coming did ask me if I want to cancel as around 50% of her other clients have. I'm happy for her to come as long as she is.

I've never seen something like that shored is the soil crap round your way?

They come already primed all round. You lot actually paint them underneath also?!

I've since learnt they don't actually supply skirts in hdf it is just a higher density version of mdf. Try asking in a merchant the density of their mdf profiles look at you like you've got the corona. No I don't paint the bottoms does anyone?! The external mitres tend to blow at the bottom. Even when well glued and painted. Perhaps I've been a bit over enthusiastic with mop but I know others who've had same problem

I should know this being a chippy but every day is a school day. I've used the Green MDF sheets in bathrooms before knocking cupboards up but i'm not there 12months later to see if it was any good. Last house had MDF skirts which started to blow at the corners after my frequent mopping in kitchen. Went back to pine in current place knotted, primed, undercoated and top coated and hey presto still got knots and marks coming through. Is this HDF any better or am I just being sold the dream? most the online merchants seem to sell their skirting as HDF which they say is more resistant to moisture. I can get the skirting I want locally for around £1.40 in MDF, online in HDF I am looking at double the cost. Happy to pay if it really is worth it but would like to hear from anyone with experience first.

I had that problem with suppliers wanting to design a system with too many different zones. Your not going to get massive temp differences in a well insulated house

Btw I'm having one fitted in current place as just want to see how good this air quality benefit is

You can't really knock @DavidHughes the assessment looks pretty thorough. Think we just need to accept the argument that in most cases it will cost you more than it saves. As previously discussed it's what you get for that cost and of the benefits are worth it to you. Be an interesting thread for @Russell griffiths to follow!

Don't you have a decent timber merchants nearby? We have a few here that keep oak on shelf with rip saw and thicknesser in

Skirting block

I've read cement only has a use by date for the properties of safety and cement burns...could of been fake news

I think your supposed to step it so it keys but perhaps the rebar negates this. Just go with what SE says. It won't be the first time it's been done in stages will be fine.

It was one which was talked about on here quite popular when they came out. Ok for a watered down mist coat but false economy really as I rubbed the lot with some 120 grit

Looks good. Mist coated mine with one of those aldi sprayers last week. Crap. Really need to bin it. I've sanded the whole lot with some fine paper. You going to hire a good sprayer?

Depending how long your run is an offcut of 22mm timber taped to a 6ft level is handy for short bits. Likewise I use 10mm packers on an 800mm level for even shorter bits. When the bubble says level the gradient is good

Is it worth suggesting the idea and sharing the increased cost?

You could pour in stages and do only what is possible in a day. Would be more expensive and a bit more complicated though. Who is responsible for the risk?