Oz07

Mine is a sliding gate had a trench about 300 square 1.8 long with 2 further holes. The steel was like an rsj goal post buried in concrete. If op is having swinging gates I think you'd need steel post buried in foundation quite deep to take the weight. Bricks built around this.

Always use it Regardless and always put over fascia vents on under eaves support tray. For what it costs it's not worth emitting.

Egg box sh!t. As in " get me another roll of that egg box sh!t"

Use outside edge. In that case plum a line up your trusses where outside of plate is and measure that height

Cut your wall plate corners at 45 to the thickness of your hip. 35/45mm. This will make it work easier in your head. Leave the height above plate the same where the hips meet the 45 corners the same as the height above plate on all your other birdsmouths

Can't see need either

Which in bricklayer speak becomes a quarter of a inch, obviously then meaning half an inch wider!

So back boxes chopped in and capping over chases? What did you do behind the back box and behind capping?

@joe90 Had solid plaster. Did you have chases?

You do see it often on sites bricks left out for this reason. For me it would give more reason just to use batts

Any give water a way to track across?!

7 years of gas safety refund for a start

Also I would favour batts if ever having to form a tray at dpc level. It doesn't take much dropped compo to bridge a cavity. Horses for courses.

Think I'd favour beads if I could get them at a reasonable price. Always used batts or blown in fibre up to now. Where i am is forgiving weather wise though. They have been using the beads on a job I've been on recently think they need to up the glue ratio it has been snowing whenever a hole is made.

I meant to block off top cavity @Mr Punter

Better off with cavity batts. They're firmer, less susceptible to moisture, easier to work with and would have better insulation properties for the given thickness

If its still green ask him if he could tidy up if he's still there. Wont be a problem to rake out and will be more on the ball with the other reveals

I'd be less concerned about basement walls than gf slab u value. My simpleton brain tells me there will be lower losses due to a more stable ground temp below say 600mm ground level. Sorry can't help with the details

Bloody hell have you had bco sign off yet? Have you been ok with house insurance? Like you say just blocking the filters seems easiest. Or removing the two external duct from top of unit and taping up. Mine are on a flexible silencer with rubber like push fit.

6"cav

No builder has a clue about the calculations we just know 32 is the dear stuff 34 is the stuff you can pass on a 6" cab 37 is the cheap stuff people use and just have one pack of 32 on the job for when bco walks round. I use 34

Are blown in beads a better option when it comes to moisture. Must admit I've built a fair few places with full fill will never had a problem. The stuff just does not soak up water. I've had it blown in and in batts. Used to be cheaper to get blown in than to fit loose. That's changed now. Pir is so reliant on good workmanship.

Haven't you been in years now? I would think the room vents are redundant if you block off the ducts to outside

I've never heard anyone say how easy they are complete PITA.

The back legs should slide but make sure wound right down so don't snap. Get the missus to do it how many fingers has she got? I swore I'd never fit another after this one. They're just a pain in the arse better off on show in a utility. Next week on a job - can you just sort the dishwasher out in plot so and so...