Oz07

Looks great. Not sure about front door though!

Is there no national outline of what is notifiable work and what isn't?

Traditional construction with no special attention to detail i.e. Barriers or tape I reckon you will be hitting 3-5. Below 3 you're supposed to have forced ventilation? Keep in mind the passive lot here will have far better scores!

How do you know which works are notifiable with regards to building regs and keeping everything above board? Looking at a renovation where some works seem obvious to need sign off, others less so. Ie lifting timber suspended floors, insulating below knocking out solid, but non load bearing walls. Opening up load bearing walls with new lintels. Rewire etc I am thinking at the start of the project you just submit a building notice then just show them everything you're doing presumably can't go wrong then? Be keen to hear what others have done. @Onoff @Ferdinand

Pb will rely on a skimmer or filler doing a good job.

Wondered why I always end up with hardwood!

never seen anyone coat a wall plate joint with preservative, rarely see tantalised timber used either (trusses generally not preserved).

Can a 4"/5" hole go in an I joist if placed correctly?

Never knew that. As in if tennon is 12mm thick then mortise not to be 60mm deep or are you on about length of mortice?

Where do you learn what components are nessecary? I.e. Expansion every so often etc etc?

The main story was on at 0730 if anyone wants to listen back. Seems mainly down to poor workmanship

I agree the pieces of paper are worthless just highlighting the fact they come up as a sticking point in conveyancing so often. Is it possible to obtain a warranty on diy installation if your can prove competency?

Anyone listening to radio 4 this morning. Something tells me in future solicitors will want to see a warranty or some kind of building control approval

Seriously though is it an issue when selling on?

Do future buyers look for any kind of warranty with EWI?

Yes trench with router after cutting with chop saw

Yes most timber sizes are quoted stock. Usually lose quarter of an inch to get it planed up. 4" becomes 94mm 2" becomes 45mm etc etc

Usually 5mm added on width for off peg linings. I used to allow 3mm all around when fittings but jam a 2mm packer in now. Can always take more off. I also pack them up a lot now in first floor. Most people tend to have floor coverings approaching 20-25mm off the deck and linings are only 2000mm high. Saves a load coming off bottom of door. @JSHarris are you on "friend"ly terms now !?

Sheiks and watches hey. Bet they don't give out I-watches!

Used it the other week but from a different supplier. Slightly different U Values but more or less the same thing. I had it with Krypton gas and fitted them to existing sash windows. Had to rout out rebates deeper and exchange cast iron weights for lead. It wasn't a bad job in the end but there is better ways to skin this cat. New sashes, smaller moulding and deeper rebate for more standard units (12mm spacer)

Seal them then. Theres product you paint on the brickwork, dries clear

Leave gravel trap between wall and patio, seal brickwork a few courses above dpc couple of options

If you cut the path back a foot away from wall and just plant it up you could of lost height there too. Wouldn't actually need a planter. Be somewhere nice for local dogs to do there business!

I think your kerbs want bringing closer to the edge of your new access. You will gain around 4" in height on the kerb side reducing your fall. Will probably be able to surface ontop of what's there saving you breaking out etc

the window is going to be a cold area. Fair play though you've done a cracking job of the reveals. What's the dpm for don't you think this will affect bonding of the plasterboard to substrate