Bonner

I was looking for the same at the weekend, tried iScape but lost patience with it very quickly. It works off photos rather than plot shape and dimensions, at least I couldn’t find a simple way to define the boundaries which I thought would be the starting point. Also free version looks very basic and immediately starts asking you to sign up for £9/month without being able to try it properly. Sorry, not very helpful but maybe one not to bother with!

Cheeky buggers! It should be obvious that these are homes for night shift workers only ? I am putting bat boxes on the house so I will be the noisy neighbour, hammering all day ?

Have you got space for a treatment plant? Cost would be about half that.

The whole report, that’s what they asked for in my application

I am planning a garage so was following this thread. Had to google pole fit, hadn’t thought of that but looks fun ?

+1 for the kiosk, I am installing one at the roadside boundary. Will be used for temporary building supply then connected to the consumer unit in the house by my electrician.

In my experience, there is no connection between planning and building control. We are using a neighbouring LA for building control. I considered going for BR before planning and my architect advised it would be fine. Only consequence of changes would be that I would have to pay them more money to revise the drawings ? The risk is on you, potential costs if there are any changes needed.

Same for me, Protek wouldn’t even give me an indicative quote. They also explained the 25% premium uplift if I miss a stage but the audit fee would be reduced as a result of one less site inspection. @SuperJohnG unless we are missing something, I agree the total warranty cost goes down the more inspections you miss! Not sure I can take the chance of start building (early April) without warranty inspections but it is tempting to take one out later ...

I am looking for 11.2kW HP + 300L cylinder. @LA3222, as you said Midsummer list prices are steep, how did you get a trade account?

Don’t mix up pressure and flow rate, you can have good pressure but p*** poor flow rate if there is a restriction in the line (PRV, shower valve or small bore piping). Boosting the pressure won’t improve the flow rate if this is the case. Agree as above, you need to measure the pressure and try adjusting the PRV before spending any money...

I wanted 3 phase but couldn’t get it for my new build. Water and electric around 2-2.5k each including road crossings.

Dig a couple of holes, one inside your boundary and another where the trench might go. If they fill with water, a soak away won’t work use it for a pond or bog garden. If it is just your garden holding water, you might be able to drain it. Trial holes about 2ft deep can be dug by hand and should give some idea what’s going on under ground.

I wouldn’t waterproof internally, ventilate the gap behind your stud wall and let it breath. If you seal both sides, any moisture that does get in won’t be able to escape and will tend to blow the coatings.

Tried Houzz, bloody awful IMO! Instagram is far better

I will be doing a lot of work to keep costs down, building detached garage, second fix etc. but I decided to leave the shell to the builder, otherwise I might just get in the way. I will be going in to fit MVHR ducts and other extras but mostly weekends when the builder is offsite.

I am at a similar point, bigger contractors came back with silly quotes but small local builder much more reasonable. However we are going to sign a JCT contract with fixed price for water tight shell. Not exactly sure what time and material arrangements you have decided but I would be very wary of costs going out of control. If your builder is convinced he can bring it on budget, why not fixed price?

Might be simpler to acquire the land under a separate title, no need to merge it with your existing plot?

Pot plants?

I thought the same but both electric and water companies said I had to have a separate connection to their mains, on the other side of the road. Be prepared, it may not be as easy as you are hoping for ...

Hi, I think you need to be posting in the Joinery section then you might get a better response

Our architect designed from the inside out, starting with internal layout, location and size of doors and windows for views, access to garden etc. This is one of the principles of Le Corbusier. Then the external envelope was designed around the space, to fit in with the local vernacular with a modern twist.

Lots of support for this ‘replacement dwelling’ although I don’t think “I support proposal for new hotel” helped much ? http://docs.west-lindsey.gov.uk/publisher/mvc/listDocuments?identifier=Planning&CaseNumber=140180&_ga=2.245869060.1664120275.1613068816-1077606281.1612817331

My architect has specified the windows to sit across the 100mm cavity. Not sure how this will work with cavity closer and fixings yet.

This is resonance where the amplitude of vibration increases at the natural frequency. Any part of the structure can resonate, the fan, bearing, housing, case or some other part which is in contact. To rule out resonance of any part of the structure you need to try to damp the vibration while it is running at 25%. You can do this by simply putting your hand on the part (if safe to do so), bracing it or adding mass. If you can’t damp out the vibration, either the fan is out of balance or the bearing worn.

@scottishjohn, have you thought about inviting Kevin along to share your trials and tribulations ?