Bonner

The design had tall windows with the roof sitting low over them, a barn like concept. Since we cannot raise the eaves, reducing the window height is the most likely compromise. I am not worried about the window size but it will change the look quite significantly. As mentioned, if I knew about this earlier I would have gone back to the drawing board with the design.

Well I think we have a solution for that issue, SE has agreed concrete lintel over the That is for the single storey living room, However it gets worse on the main roof ... This is the eaves detail, similar to the single storey but trusses here with raised tie (3.3m first floor ceilings) That is the drawing sent to the truss manufacturer and this is what they made ... No prizes for spotting the difference - chord depth 365mm compared to 210mm on the drawing, also 200mm wide foot will have to sit over the lintel not behind it. Consequence would be 6-7 courses of brick over the windows rather than one course shown. Having spoken to all parties involved on Friday, what happened is : Architect designed something that is difficult / impossible to build, but they argue their drawings are ‘representative’ and must be checked by truss manufacturer or SE. Truss manufacturer are admitting they had the drawings but cannot make anything to fit and told the builder this. Builder ordered them without coming back to me or architect So what happens now ... Truss manufacturers are looking how these can be modified to at least get them lower (3 courses of bricks over the window head would be acceptable, 6-7 course is a major design change) Architect is looking for construction details of similar designs they have done in the past. Builder is busy avoiding any responsibility and blaming everyone else I am prepared to compromise (so far) because it seems the original concept was just that, would have to be modified at some point. Also, the build is dragging on far to long and we don’t want any further delays. It would have been so much better if this was recognised earlier, we could have adapted the design without much drama. Thanks for reading this sorry story and let it be a lesson for others as it has been for me Any ideas for a solution would be highly welcome!

When you say sash windows, are they sliding sashes? These can be challenging to seal effectively, even modern ones. Also an 8mm air gap in double glazing is very weak by modern standards.

I used a fibreglass cabinet like this, with 12mm ply back board https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273799954572?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338781477&toolid=10029&customid=EAIaIQobChMIzOTntou08wIVkM13Ch3PMA70EAQYGSABEgKdbfD_BwE&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1IYqadMMeS7WqSSjMKFclqQ6

Thanks everyone, I will share the outcome of discussions with BCO/SE when we have agreed a solution.

Cheers Peter, we have agreed to check with BCO and the SE if necessary. Slightly surprised this detail was drawn by the architect and approved by BC but I am sure we will find a solution.

Yes, big glulam ridge beam and cut rafters, calcs done by the truss supplier so should not see significant horizontal load.

Not sure what you mean by a composite lintel, these are standard steel Catnic cavity wall lintels. I looked on the Catnic website but couldn’t see any specific guidance but IG site mentions minimum 150mm of masonry.

That certainly makes sense but it depends how that weight is distributed. The architect has shown quite a thick wall plate, presumably to distribute the load ...

Thanks @tonyshouse, apologies I should have said the lintels are already in. Take your point about thermal bridging so will see if they can replaced. If not, is it acceptable for the wall plate to sit directly on a lintel without a course of masonry?

Is this a standard construction detail? The builder is saying it is necessary to put masonry on the lintel before the wall plate but that will raise the eaves and ridge height. If masonry is not needed should he just bed the wall plate on the lintel with mortar?

I got a quote from GBS for Alu-clad and timber, they tried to push me away from Alu-clad for environmental reasons. Thought that was a weak argument considering the quantity of material and not consistent with what they are saying now.

That’s interesting, sounds like it’s carbon neutral ? ... on that note, I’ll get my coat ....

I am planning to use 125 & 150mm rigid duct so would be interested in any excess pipe ? Thought about Y connectors and 45deg runs but threading through posi-joists at an angle doesn’t look feasible.

I am in the same boat (without a rudder!), can’t decide how much to invest in windows. I like alu-clad systems but concerned by cost, long lead times and horror stories about fitting. I am inclined towards a local aluminium fabricator who will supply and install ... and be within arms reach to remedy any faults if needed. Can’t make a recommendation but I have done quite a bit of due diligence on them, PM me if you want yet another option ...

No idea is stupid, not considering something is ... however what you are proposing could do more damage than good. As long as the roof and guttering is sound, the walls should not get soaked. Also, pointing helps to shed rain, is that in good condition? Are you sure the damp at basement level is not rising? What is the ground level outside compared the inside? Any signs of excessively wet ground (drainage issues)? Avoid waterproofing the brick wall outside, it is likely to trap moisture and potentially blow the brick face. This maybe what the paint has done. Are there any similar aged buildings nearby? They could give a clue if it is a common or isolated issue.

These are normally assembled with a 10 ton hydraulic press. Any site method would be unlikely to achieve the same structural strength. As mentioned, consult a structural engineer. Another joint, ie. screw/bolted plates may be more suitable. Or for non-structural repairs, a big hammer ...

Cheers @JOE187, did you install the Itho RH sensors https://www.ventilationland.co.uk/product/25036/itho-daalderop-rft-rh-sensor-surface-mounted-incl-control-battery-penlight-aa-04-00046.html or something else? I would prefer a single integrated or in ducting sensor as the cost would mount up for 4 of these (3x bathrooms and a kitchen).

All I can say is it has worked well for 10 years so far ... other suggestions are welcome I’m sure. The point is you don’t need any special adhesives to bed a shower tray

I am very tempted at this price https://www.ventilationland.co.uk/product/27743/itho-daalderop-hru-350-eco-unit-hr-rft-high-rise-350m-h.html Looking for simplicity, high flow rate (280sq.m house) and good efficiency. Noting that I would need to add RH sensors to boost, is these anything else I should be considering? Anyone got experience of this, or similar units (believe they are also badged Heatrae Sadia)?

Firstly, I do not have experience of this specific tray, however I have fitted similar. They do not need ‘sticking down’ to the floor so an adhesive is not necessary and to be avoiding IMO. What you need is a bed to support the weight evenly across the surface. Sand and cement would probably work but I have used decorators caulk which is cheap and effective (4 tubes on a 1200 tray IIRC). Note that these trays are designed to work with risers kits so should have sufficient strength to support their weight on 8 legs (unless you are supposed to fill under the tray after levelling up the legs? I haven’t used a riser kit)

+1 for white cement. My new build brick house was specified with lime mortar by the architect. Brickies made a sample with white cement, looks just like lime mortar I have used before on a period property.

You could always install a lift to the cloakroom, although that would mean sacrificing one of the shoe cupboards ?

Hello and welcome. Good luck finding a plot, that was a long journey for us! With hindsight, I would looked further afield and alternatives like refurb or rebuilds.

Looks like a immersion heater key, assuming it is made of steel?