Bonner

Temporary staircase, cheap prefabricated one or make it yourself. Hint, make the main flight a bit short so you can adjust the height as you build the floor level up

https://www.lighthouseaudiovisual.co.uk/alustage--decotruss-quad-truss-straight-sections-128670-p.asp?_=&variantid=128860&gclid=CjwKCAjw5_GmBhBIEiwA5QSMxKV6vL-sDFllRQ4ihhcRtq3Tq_vdAa_dQFscuii-7RgTTHgZvapFohoCc2cQAvD_BwE Something like these? Search for lattice beam

There are steel or aluminium prefabbed trusses used for stages which will span 10m, can’t imagine they will be cheap though. If you don’t find a cost effective single span, a 100mm post in the middle would be a game changer

We had the ridge height challenge and responded by designing 1 3/4 storey barn style house. We have ceilings which slope down to 2.1m, low eaves detail over the windows. I think it is better proportioned externally and the internal sloping ceilings add interest without feeling compromised. The only minor issue was fitting wardrobes into the slope.

Leave them be, they are unlikely to do any structural damage. I had them in a previous property for 13 years without any issues. Masonry Bees are solitary and do not gather in large numbers although a few will choose the same patch of wall which suits them best.

Absolutely! Must be the very definition of one’s curtilage 😉

In this case, it may be in your interest to define your own curtilage. Not only on a drawing but also by erecting some kind of boundary. A simple post and rail fence should be sufficient, make it look permanent but keep in mind you may need to move it. Keep the area reasonably in proportion to the house, one purpose of defining domestic curtilage is to restrict urban sprawl in the countryside.

What about land registry, does it show just one parcel of land? Often domestic curtilage and paddocks are on separate deeds

I didn’t think Velux were expensive compared to the other windows! Highly recommend motorised opening with rain sensors, we use ours nearly everyday in the summer.

Looks like Mares-tail, quite a bugger to get rid of if it is

+1 for moving the wildlife on for a while. We cleared the site before the planners descended. No conditions were imposed but we have installed bird and bat boxes, wild planting and planning to dig a pond. New houses and gardens can actually increase the diversity of wildlife … after a brief disruption to habitats during the build.

In a hard water area they quickly show limescale (within days!). Scratches to the coating depends on quality and usage so can’t comment.

Never seen this on a drawing. Assuming they are built into the inner leaf of the cavity wall, it is the same as floor joists which are not treated. Just make sure the cavity tray is installed, then it will be fine.

The L shape doesn’t really add much useful room, makes access to the HW cylinder awkward. Better to keep the space for your pantry.

As @Alan Ambrose says, don’t expect to make any profit these days. Plots prices and build costs remain high with resale values generally uncertain. Of course it depends on the specific location and local supply vs. demand.

The screed might not crack but large porcelain tiles will expand at a slightly different rate. I also laid 800mm tiles on Anhydrous screed and wasn’t going to use a mat but decided to in the end. That’s just my experience, @nod is the real expert!

Separate issues; moisture, adhesion and movement. No doubt it will be dry after 3 years. Any remaining laitance will be fairly obvious and easily removed. A decoupling mat is still recommended to allow thermal expansion without cracking the tiles.

No reason for the gap, fill it up!

As above, opening window needed for ventilation but not fire escape

Unless I am mistaken, it’s fine as it is. The bedroom door opens on to the hall. Even though not directly it’s still part of the hall and acceptable fire route.

Ha! No problem keeping an eye on the builders from there 🤠

It says BSP one end, compression the other. Isn’t that the compression end? See if it goes on a comp fitting?

Looks great! Must have been challenging just getting out of the ground, steep site and proximity to neighbour!

More or less what I paid for a Grant 13kW HP MCS installed. I would have installed one myself but no time and benefit of 7 year warranty (for what it’s worth …)

I would go for a standard oak staircase from one of the specialists (Pears, StairBox, TK etc). It will be impossible to match the colours due to natural variations, just look at your flooring picture 😉