dpmiller

car exhaust putty? High temp (flue) silicone?

Tekscrews?

You might be sending the ASHP a demand signal, but surely it'll only be running based on water temperature anyway?

Personally I'd say that the high flow rates an ASHP requires would mean 28mm above 10kW for sure.

the terms are still used interchangeably. Oddly enough tho, true Imperial plumbing is still common in the South of Ireland...

^Already is IMHO. cf. @zoothorn

^ yep, some have a choice of (IIRC) 6 or 10 cycles/hr.

Is there not a buffer tank?

grey is better than yellow.

Sorry, Dave, consumer grade Karcher is not brilliant these days. The plastic pump heads distort, and frost kills them completely. See if you can find a service/ parts book online for that model and you'll get a better idea of what's doable.

Ewww. Careful. Nasty things.

Delving into the converter is your next stop. What variety is it, transistorised or rotary?

Boost is higher voltage at same frequency I think. Like a torque assist

the flow would be too turbulent for the average anaemometer to deal with IMO

I can't fault Turkingtons for us, some of their manufacturing is done at Windows 2000 round the corner here in Ards, and Apeer do a big proportion of the composite doors..

£4.30 in B&Q?

Do you know what an automatic bypass valve is? Was the engineer ever present at 3am when the temperature was low enough to bring on this issue?

IIRC manometer fluid for the sensitive inclined filter loss gauges is basically white spirit with dye in.

And also with respect, you don't know with certainly that what you just typed is correct *unless* you wade through all the other stuff. How do you know an in-house sensor isn't reading the temperature wrong, and telling the pump to run? You don't. How do you know what flow restriction there is in the rest of the CH circuit that could be making the pump unnecessarly noisy if it *does* run at night time? Modern pumps automatically vary their speed- they don't have "gears", they're CVT automatics. Can you be sure a zone valve isn't wired wrong and is forcing the unit on even when programmed off? None of these things are inside the ASHP or in the manufacturer's pervue.

exactly the same as any capacitor-start domestic fridge. To be fair, the overload relay will protect the compressor...

You could start by understanding the plumbing of the central heating system in the house and how this interacts hydraulically and electrically with the (totally seperate) ASHP gubbins? Thermostats Zone Valves Bypass valves motorised valves Non return valves TRVs CH circulating pump(s) and confirming where exactly all the flow and temperature sensors for the ASHP are installed in relation to the above. Remember that the flashy boffin-top-engineer types that work for the manufacturer only know *their* bit inside out. Not whatever disaster of copper may have been shoehorned in by your so-called "installers"

we're all just cheaping out really. All the "real" pros use Milwaukee or Festool...

SO many things about the current system a proper heating engineer could check...

Like a gas combi then?

I wonder if somewhere in the house gets cold enough (can't remember where all the sensors are) overnight that you're getting in-house frost protection? I think that's 5 or 7C for the average programable stat...